Nobody can diagnose my 01' T/A torsen problem HELP!
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: IL side of STL
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My car is a 01' WS6 with 130k miles and i've had it since 104k miles with no issues till I installed LT's,3in catless Y,lid,built tranny(T-56) other minor bolt-ons, no tune still. It was about 1 year after doing those mods that I was turning and heard a pop in rearend and I thought well it had to come sooner or later with the stock rear. I ran 13.18 3 years ago with only lid and muffler, and since the mods havnt broke into 12's because clutch goes out or tire spin bad and im always on street tires, sticky ones but still fuzion ZRi's. Anyway I took the cover off the rear after It popped and jolted every time I turned left ONLY and finally a big pop and shook the car and didnt hear it again, well it ended up being 1 of the 4 bolts in the middle holing the LSD unit I guess backed out and snapped off. GM couldnt help me they "never" seen a torsen unit from 01' WS6 and said only way it came in the car was by the customer having it added extra by SLP at the factory or before it got to the dealer. I finally found out all F bodys got auburns in 01-02 as far as I know but having torsen or eaton installed as an slp option was possible too. I called Torsen,SLP, other GM dealers, talked to everyone and most never heard of torsen, i've seen many on here talk about them. I dont know why they arent good for drag racing because its always 2 tires lighting up on burnouts, it wont just spin 1 no matter what I do. I put it back in leaving the pinion untouched and just used stock shim on each side like it came from factory 1 shim each side, drove great for 4,500mi then did same thing but the bolt caddy corner from the last one(I can tell because I couldnt find the stock bolt so I went with a grade 8 its gold colored). I put new bolt in again and now went 6k miles and its done it again I know it and havnt took cover off yet, buts its same noise. nobody knows what bolts im ever talking about, or NE thing, not even on here when I asked a few months ago. Theres the ring gear bolts, and then in the middle around where the axle shafts go in around that hole on drivers side is the 4 bolts. Why do they back out all a sudden?
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (67)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
are you talking about the 4 bolts that hold the bearing caps on?
did you ever pull the lsd out?
if so the 2 shims on each side of it are different thicknes & are only
suppose to go on one way......
did you ever pull the lsd out?
if so the 2 shims on each side of it are different thicknes & are only
suppose to go on one way......
#4
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: IL side of STL
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The 2 peices you are talking about are what holds the unit in the housing(1- cap on left and 1 on right, both have a bolt in top and a bolt in bottom, kinda looks like a 2 bolt rod main bearing cap). When The torsen LSD is out of the housing and you are looking at it from where the axle shaft goes into the drivers side there is 10 or so bolts around the diameter holding the ring gear on, then there are 4 bolts around the part that the axle shaft goes into @ the actual torsen unit. It looks like they are the bolts that hold the part with the actuall limited slip gears in it, spider gears, worm gears, and where the axles shafts get the c-clips at. That is the bolts that keep backing out and snap off on the bearing caps. I installed a whole new kit, axle bearings,differential bearings, races, but was told to keep the original spacers if they were the factory ones that have 1 spacer on each side. I marked them when I took them out, and marked the caps so it would all be right.
#5
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (14)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My car is a 01' WS6 with 130k miles and i've had it since 104k miles with no issues till I installed LT's,3in catless Y,lid,built tranny(T-56) other minor bolt-ons, no tune still. It was about 1 year after doing those mods that I was turning and heard a pop in rearend and I thought well it had to come sooner or later with the stock rear. I ran 13.18 3 years ago with only lid and muffler, and since the mods havnt broke into 12's because clutch goes out or tire spin bad and im always on street tires, sticky ones but still fuzion ZRi's. Anyway I took the cover off the rear after It popped and jolted every time I turned left ONLY and finally a big pop and shook the car and didnt hear it again, well it ended up being 1 of the 4 bolts in the middle holing the LSD unit I guess backed out and snapped off. GM couldnt help me they "never" seen a torsen unit from 01' WS6 and said only way it came in the car was by the customer having it added extra by SLP at the factory or before it got to the dealer. I finally found out all F bodys got auburns in 01-02 as far as I know but having torsen or eaton installed as an slp option was possible too. I called Torsen,SLP, other GM dealers, talked to everyone and most never heard of torsen, i've seen many on here talk about them. I dont know why they arent good for drag racing because its always 2 tires lighting up on burnouts, it wont just spin 1 no matter what I do. I put it back in leaving the pinion untouched and just used stock shim on each side like it came from factory 1 shim each side, drove great for 4,500mi then did same thing but the bolt caddy corner from the last one(I can tell because I couldnt find the stock bolt so I went with a grade 8 its gold colored). I put new bolt in again and now went 6k miles and its done it again I know it and havnt took cover off yet, buts its same noise. nobody knows what bolts im ever talking about, or NE thing, not even on here when I asked a few months ago. Theres the ring gear bolts, and then in the middle around where the axle shafts go in around that hole on drivers side is the 4 bolts. Why do they back out all a sudden?
#7
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: IL side of STL
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I pulled the diff cover and sure enough its one of them 4 bolts again that backed out and finally busted off on the housing. The other 2 that did the same thing I ended up replacing them with a grade 8 and washer since I couldnt find any grade 6 with built on washer like what came in them and the 2 grade 8's are still in, it was another factory bolt again, so you made my mind up about what I was going to do now (just take all 4 out and put new grade 8's in since the grade 8's dont back out on me). Still I really wish I knew what them bolts are holding because I've took them all out before and tried seperating the LSD from the ring gear and nothing moves, tried everything but hydraulic ram. What could cause the vibration? It drives very smooth, I did go into a ditch last winter at 60mph and only thing that happened was my LCA's both bent a little about midway down each one, maybe 1/4in, I know it cant be good but figured they are flimsy stock ones and might not even effect anything since it still hooks up good and the panhard rod should keep it aligned right? I've had to tighten the TRQ arm tranny mount a couple times in the past, and also just last week b4 my track run when I was checking fluids I noticed my pinion yolk had play when I moved the driveshaft and the nut ended up being finger loose, no telling how long its been like that. I tightened it back up but it felt like there was alot of drag when I rolled the tires with the back jacked up. I prolly need to install new pinion shims,sleeve, bearing. I leave the pinion untouched when I take the differential out and fix the bolt both times. If I got in depth instructions on how to set the pinion I shouldnt have an issue. I was a welder for the railroad for 4 years till the layoff and im 26yrs old, I've also done plenty of machining and know how to use/read all the tools needed, but just not sure how to do it right unless the car is level and on a lift.
Trending Topics
#8
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: IL side of STL
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Idk what dealer you called but I wouldnt call them back. ALL fbodys from 99-02 got torsen carriers. 98's were the only year to come with auburns or in 99-02 you could option for it from slp IF you bought an ss but ws6's werent done by slp so the fact you have the torsen is not abnormal at all. The torsen is a tad weaker than an auburn but it uses worm gears to lock the wheels while an auburn uses clutches that will eventually wear out. The torsen will spin on wheel but only fr a spplit second so its hard to notice if you power brake your car slowly and look at the back you will notice one wheel will spin maybe 2 times before the other locks up. As far as the bolt issue I've heard of it happening with a few rear ends usually people replace ALL the bolts and use locktite and its good I'd suggest trying that and if it doesnt work look into a new carrier as obviously somethings wrong with the case.
#9
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: IL side of STL
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
#10
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (14)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ya the ws6's were done by gm and the SS was done by slp along with the firehawk but no fbody ever came with an eaton only an auburn or torsen and after 98 on the torsen unless you optioned for it in the ss. An ss actualy has slp part numbers on the hoood and spoiler whereas the ws6 will not because it was done by gm. However to your question abt the bolts the actually deos hold the ring gear on however its a very tight slip fit. When I have seperated them out of the car i usually have to use some love taps with a brass hammer to knock it free from the carrier. But ya the factory bolts sometime do back out and most of the tie people just replace them with grade 8 so your ok there.
![Angel](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_angel.gif)
#11
Teching In
iTrader: (6)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i assume that you are talking about the 4 bolts with 3/4" heads on the ring gear side of the carrier. bolts backing out is very common with these things. about the only thing that helps is to put green locktite on them and cross your fingers. they are more commonly known as a zexel posi now days but i don,t think that will help at the dealers parts counter. also these were good upto about 400-500 h.p. max.
#12
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: IL side of STL
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ya the ws6's were done by gm and the SS was done by slp along with the firehawk but no fbody ever came with an eaton only an auburn or torsen and after 98 on the torsen unless you optioned for it in the ss. An ss actualy has slp part numbers on the hoood and spoiler whereas the ws6 will not because it was done by gm. However to your question abt the bolts the actually deos hold the ring gear on however its a very tight slip fit. When I have seperated them out of the car i usually have to use some love taps with a brass hammer to knock it free from the carrier. But ya the factory bolts sometime do back out and most of the tie people just replace them with grade 8 so your ok there.![Angel](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_angel.gif)
![Angel](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_angel.gif)
#13
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 0
Received 81 Likes
on
72 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Also they said the parts that are installed at GM to make the SS from a Z/28 and WS6 from a formula/T/A are parts made by SLP that were made for GM for the SS in 01-02 and WS6 from 99-02. The WS6 wont say SLP anywhere, neither will an SS unless it was an "SLP SS" which means after the customer bought an SS only from 01-02 they could have it sent to SLP from GM plant for additional options as stripes,better exhaust that exits in middle and an SLP lid, and when that was done SLP installed a sticker on either side of door jam unter the built codes saying Addition mods done my Street Legal Performance and specifies the mods done to car.