Rebuilding the 10 bolt....
11-28-2010, 07:14 AM
#21
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weak point is the size of the gears....7.5" no use in upgrading it becuase there is'nt anymore realistate for bigger gears. Although I have been 11.1 with a M6 I have also broke 2 sets of 4.10. The taller the gear the stronger the gear is.because of more tooth contact. Welding the axle tubes is a joke on these rears. The only time you need to do that is if your spinning the pumpkin on the tubes.
12-01-2010, 11:52 AM
#23
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I disagree that the weak link is the size of the gears.
One reason people say to have the tubes welded on is to stop the tubes from flexing. Also if you just put in a set of gears in your car then yes your gears are going to be weaker because you are trying to fit the more teeth in the same amount of space, therefor each gear will have less metal! When you say the taller the gear is the stronger it is, you are referring to the amount of force that is transfered. However the actual strength of each individual gear is weaker due to less metal making up each tooth.
Also another reason the pure size of the gear is not a weak link is because usually the first question asked when someone is thinking about rebuilding their rear ends is if they will be using DR's. When you use DR's you will hook up better and inevitably put more force on your axles. When this happens it bends your axle tubes forward throwing off the preset backlash of the the ring gear. Then you get the notorious stripped gears!
If you just try and solve the real root cause of the 10 bolt you will solve your problem. People saw this as the root cause and not the small stature of the gears and made kits for it.
One reason people say to have the tubes welded on is to stop the tubes from flexing. Also if you just put in a set of gears in your car then yes your gears are going to be weaker because you are trying to fit the more teeth in the same amount of space, therefor each gear will have less metal! When you say the taller the gear is the stronger it is, you are referring to the amount of force that is transfered. However the actual strength of each individual gear is weaker due to less metal making up each tooth.
Also another reason the pure size of the gear is not a weak link is because usually the first question asked when someone is thinking about rebuilding their rear ends is if they will be using DR's. When you use DR's you will hook up better and inevitably put more force on your axles. When this happens it bends your axle tubes forward throwing off the preset backlash of the the ring gear. Then you get the notorious stripped gears!
If you just try and solve the real root cause of the 10 bolt you will solve your problem. People saw this as the root cause and not the small stature of the gears and made kits for it.
12-01-2010, 02:02 PM
#24
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Like I said...welding the tube won't do anything but stop the pumpkin from spinning on the tube......unless your axle tubes are lose in the housing...then I'll go with what you said. You would have to weld a brace across the rear to make any difference in axle tube flex. I have spun pumpkins on the tubes before with out messing the gears or the axles up.
12-01-2010, 02:47 PM
#25
I don't care for Moser axles on ten bolts. I like the superior ones but again like mentioned I have never seen an axle break-usually the gears do.
I like the LPW girdle better than the T/a
Another thing to try and do is to lighten the car-that will help the rear live awhile...
I like the LPW girdle better than the T/a
Another thing to try and do is to lighten the car-that will help the rear live awhile...
12-02-2010, 02:49 AM
#26
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I'm going to have my 10bolt rebuilt hopefully within the next year. My plans are to have a new set of gears, even if it's the stock 3.42s, I just want some new metal in there, I might even consider 3.73s, but probably stick with the stock gears. I'll be getting the full rebuild kit, welding the tubes, and putting on a girdle. It won't be seeing enough track time to make a difference, but I am on DRs.
12-05-2010, 08:05 AM
#30
Build tight with a girdle you should be fine. I personally would stay away from the stock torsen carrier if want to hammer on it hard. The auburn carrier is much stronger. Use heavy gear oil too, not the light weight synthetic crap they have out now. Be sure to get all the bearings setup tight and the races set in. I always rap on everything to be sure the races are set, then after i'm finnished I take it out and break it in then run it VERY hard then open bavk up and check everything. You would be suprised what moves around and changes in a rebuilt rear. Attention to the fine details will make the 10 bolt last alot longer than you think.
12-05-2010, 10:16 AM
#31
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I didn't research the exact prices of all the parts you want to put in your 10 bolt, but I'm guessing it would end up being around $1000?
For around that same price, you can get a 9" housing and axle package from Moser. Then for ~$100 you could get a junk yard center section out of a ford truck.
So for not much more you could have a 9" that would be a great base. In the future when you get more cash you could upgrade the center section to one with your ideal gears/posi/etc.
Granted you would need to have your DS modified to work with the 9", so that would add slightly to the cost. But like people are saying, putting money into your 10 bolt is basically pouring it down the drain so spending alittle more for the 9" would be a much better investment.
For around that same price, you can get a 9" housing and axle package from Moser. Then for ~$100 you could get a junk yard center section out of a ford truck.
So for not much more you could have a 9" that would be a great base. In the future when you get more cash you could upgrade the center section to one with your ideal gears/posi/etc.
Granted you would need to have your DS modified to work with the 9", so that would add slightly to the cost. But like people are saying, putting money into your 10 bolt is basically pouring it down the drain so spending alittle more for the 9" would be a much better investment.
12-27-2010, 02:58 PM
#36
A 10 bolt with a 6 speed trans = the fuse being lit ... it will blow it is just a matter of time ... DR tires insure that it will be short fuse ... save your $$ ... and get a real rear end .. if you blow the ten bolt you can buy the whole rear end for $200 from a junk yard or someone on tech who has already removed their 10 bolt POS ... 
12-29-2010, 04:17 PM
#38
I have owned my 2002 Formula since new. The largest waste of money was $800 rebuilding the 10 bolt. I got $150 for it when I replaced it with a 12 bolt. The best money I have spent was the $2500 on a full optioned Moser 12 bolt, no worries no problems for the past 5 years. My stock 10 bolt had bearing failer driving home from Florida. I nursed it home from Virginia to NE Ohio, not a Sunday drive I hope to repeat again.
01-01-2011, 12:21 PM
#39
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Dont consider rebuilding a 7.5 at all unless u just cant afford anything stronger right know. Dont fix whats not broke and save up!!!! I have stripped the gears in my differental twice
and fixed both times
this last time snapped the driver axle
. That draws the line for me i had another axle laying around so i replace it.....but a 9" is under construction NOW!! Really no use is a m6, Bolt on cam m6 4.10
and fixed both times this last time snapped the driver axle. That draws the line for me i had another axle laying around so i replace it.....but a 9" is under construction NOW!! Really no use is a m6, Bolt on cam m6 4.10
01-02-2011, 10:01 PM
#40
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I ran the 10 bolt 11 years/75 k miles /street tire,Nitto DR' ,MT DR /A4/Yank SS 3600/2.3 STR/1.64@ 60 FT with a LOT of wheel hop untill 30-40 days ago when I pulled it and install 9",
( I guess I should sell it now )but I had a lot of money and upgrades in it, the ONLY thing I tore up was the OE Aubun which the center pin worked loose and wallowed out carrier
here is my invertory:
ta cover/stud kit (140.00)
Detroit locker (525.00)
3.73 (200.00)
mos axles (250.00)
welded tubes (nc)
air bags (50.00)
adjust ta on body mount(250.00)
relocate brackets (nc)
adjust lca (200.00)
adj phb (100.00)
all labor (nc)
all added a nickel and a dime at a time
but as stated it lasted and still good
Johnny
( I guess I should sell it now )but I had a lot of money and upgrades in it, the ONLY thing I tore up was the OE Aubun which the center pin worked loose and wallowed out carrier
here is my invertory:
ta cover/stud kit (140.00)
Detroit locker (525.00)
3.73 (200.00)
mos axles (250.00)
welded tubes (nc)
air bags (50.00)
adjust ta on body mount(250.00)
relocate brackets (nc)
adjust lca (200.00)
adj phb (100.00)
all labor (nc)
all added a nickel and a dime at a time
but as stated it lasted and still good
Johnny
Last edited by SS SLP2; 01-02-2011 at 10:12 PM.