01 WS6 differential mods help?!?!
01-11-2011, 01:46 AM
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01 WS6 differential mods help?!?! My 01 WS6 is an M6 with full exhaust,ls7 clutch,pro 5.0,and the usuall mods, lid,p/p T/B etc...I want to do as much as I can to strentghen the rear end since I've had 3 of the 4 L/S bolts that hold the torsion2 unit on come out all at different times and finally breaks the bolt off. I changed all 4 with grade 8 bolts and rebuilt the whole LSD a few months ago and its been great finally...I'm a laid off welder and havnt had money to mod for a long time, but just recently got a mig welder and I want to start making mods. I want to weld the axles tubes, but also was wondering about fabbing axles and maybe the whole carrier/housing from a 03-07ish Z71 truck. I just helped a friend rebuild his 04 Z71 and noticed the rear was 8.6'' and he had monster axles compaired to mine. I am so broke I would rather fab the spines from my axle to a 8.6'' axle if its possible instead of paying $300 for mosiers because IMO its a waste to spend over $300 to strentghen a 7.5/7.625 rear because they just arent strong. Would I be able to fab 8.6'' truck axles to work with my 7.625'' and is it worth it? I could do it for around $75. Also is there anyway to install the 8.6'' ring/pinion? The easiest way would be to take the entire truck assembly and shorten the axles/tubes and then I'd have stronger ring,pinion,axles...right?..I dont care how much time it takes, I havnt been able to mod my car for 2 yrs, its all about $ and what if anything can be made stronger with under $100. IT SUCKS. I run street tires and run 12.90-13.0's@110mph with launching from idle, and have ran 12.49@112mph with DR's and 3500 launch, just incase that matters.
01-12-2011, 01:39 AM
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Anyone know if it would help me by installing mosier axles or fabbing the monster 8.5/8.6 02-05 GM truck axles by cutting them and welding my splines on? It sounds like a joke, but its not lol. I am a broke, laid off youngen that has been lingering in upper 12's for 2 yrs, and 2 1/2 yrs ago when I got the car bone stock it ran 13.18@103mph so I Have to do something by spring. I want to safely run DR's, my fastest pass ever was on DR's and I never did it again because it didnt feel right to take off at 3k and not spin! I am installing c-clip elims,4:10's and also detroit tru trac. I got it all for $400 and now I have to find a way to strentghen my axles for under $100. Trust me if I could get a mosier,currie ready to bolt in for under $1k I would if I had 1k, but thats not goin to happen. I am also installing a 224dur, .560lift cam,springs,p-rods, and trading my #241's+$300 for PRC stg 2.5's...good deal. I will need traction very bad and finally get a tune...
01-12-2011, 01:50 AM
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Weld (free with your new welder) on your axel tubes, and buy a diff girdle $150.
Most of the mishaps I have seen with 10 bolts it has been either the carrier or ring gear. I put new Alloy axles in mine for a rebuild ($600=rebuild vs $2300 S60) no problems if you stay away from drag slicks.
Most of the mishaps I have seen with 10 bolts it has been either the carrier or ring gear. I put new Alloy axles in mine for a rebuild ($600=rebuild vs $2300 S60) no problems if you stay away from drag slicks.
01-12-2011, 10:46 AM
#4
It sounds like you're trying to build a death trap.
If you think you're making an axle stronger by cutting the splines off and welding smaller splines on...you need to sell or destroy that welder before you kill yourself. What about the axle bearing? You're going to have a big truck axle with a 28 spline end welded to it and it's not going to fit through the bearing.
You're better off getting a rear close to the right width like a ford 8.8 or even a 2nd gen 8.5 and use basic welding/fabrication skills to add a torque arm mount, and transfer the other brackets over.
If you think you're making an axle stronger by cutting the splines off and welding smaller splines on...you need to sell or destroy that welder before you kill yourself. What about the axle bearing? You're going to have a big truck axle with a 28 spline end welded to it and it's not going to fit through the bearing.
You're better off getting a rear close to the right width like a ford 8.8 or even a 2nd gen 8.5 and use basic welding/fabrication skills to add a torque arm mount, and transfer the other brackets over.
01-13-2011, 12:12 AM
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trueee Thanks guys, Anthony W... I have read alot on the rear girdles like the T/A and they seem like they have to strengthen it for sure, I just wish I could find a used one but it must be worth $100+ or so many people wouldnt buy them. It just looks to me like a heavy cast diff cover with studs welded/molded into it?...I've heard of the S60 also, what is it?...do the studs just butt up against the carrier main caps? Ive only seen them in jegs/summit. I definately am going to weld the axle tubes also, thats been on my to do list. Now to JAY...Yea I was hoping sum1 would tell me the axle/spline fab thing was stupid, it didnt seem worth it at all and there would be no way to make it as strong as b4 I cut them. I didnt know if people do it or not because I know people shorten their axles and what not and being a welder I know with certain things like an axle if its heated up enough to cut it will take the temper/strength out of it. Its also usually the splines that break on the axle anyway so I'll throw that idea away! I didnt know the explorer 8.8 fit in 4th gen F bodys, me and a friend are putting one of those in an s10 right now. I've read that the ford 8.8 carrier needs to be centered, i'm guessing for the pinion angle? and atleast on the s10 I was told a 95+ 4.3L s10 will hold 400rwhp and doesnt have to be centered...on the 8.8 do I just have to relocate the LCA mounts and make a trq arm rear mount?
01-13-2011, 11:02 AM
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I've put a ranger 8.8 in an S10 'as is'. (except for spring perch relocation and redrilled axles) Didn't center the pinion and it ran smooth.
The thing with the ranger/explorer 8.8 in an S10 is the fact that the passenger side axle tube is 3" longer than the drivers side. When the passenger side of the housing is shortened 3" you can take a stock drivers side axle and use it on the passenger side. And it all ends up only 1" wider than the stock S10 rear and the pinion is centered.
But for an f-body is a whole different process. The f-body rear is approx 62" so an explorer rear won't work unless you wanted it narrowed anyway. If thats the case you'd have to do something with the brakes and make a torque arm mount.
Most people seem to be cutting the center out of the 8.8 rear and using the f-body axle tubes with the brackets already in place. Making a TA mount, some people even use the stock f-body axles.
I've looked into this swap for a short time. I've seen wider 8.8's in bigger cars and even seen some with vented brake rotors. But I didn't measure anything.
I think the cheapest way for you to go is to get an 8.8 with decent brakes and close to the right width and make a torque arm mount for it that is welded to the axle tubes or anything other than the cast iron.
Then you still might need to get the axles redrilled (depending on wheels you use), and you have to buy the rear.
Then theres gears. It seems like every truck I look at has 3.55's or 3.73's with a limited slip, and all cars have 3.27's with open diff's.
The thing with the ranger/explorer 8.8 in an S10 is the fact that the passenger side axle tube is 3" longer than the drivers side. When the passenger side of the housing is shortened 3" you can take a stock drivers side axle and use it on the passenger side. And it all ends up only 1" wider than the stock S10 rear and the pinion is centered.
But for an f-body is a whole different process. The f-body rear is approx 62" so an explorer rear won't work unless you wanted it narrowed anyway. If thats the case you'd have to do something with the brakes and make a torque arm mount.
Most people seem to be cutting the center out of the 8.8 rear and using the f-body axle tubes with the brackets already in place. Making a TA mount, some people even use the stock f-body axles.
I've looked into this swap for a short time. I've seen wider 8.8's in bigger cars and even seen some with vented brake rotors. But I didn't measure anything.
I think the cheapest way for you to go is to get an 8.8 with decent brakes and close to the right width and make a torque arm mount for it that is welded to the axle tubes or anything other than the cast iron.
Then you still might need to get the axles redrilled (depending on wheels you use), and you have to buy the rear.
Then theres gears. It seems like every truck I look at has 3.55's or 3.73's with a limited slip, and all cars have 3.27's with open diff's.
01-15-2011, 02:33 AM
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nice I've put a ranger 8.8 in an S10 'as is'. (except for spring perch relocation and redrilled axles) Didn't center the pinion and it ran smooth.
The thing with the ranger/explorer 8.8 in an S10 is the fact that the passenger side axle tube is 3" longer than the drivers side. When the passenger side of the housing is shortened 3" you can take a stock drivers side axle and use it on the passenger side. And it all ends up only 1" wider than the stock S10 rear and the pinion is centered.
But for an f-body is a whole different process. The f-body rear is approx 62" so an explorer rear won't work unless you wanted it narrowed anyway. If thats the case you'd have to do something with the brakes and make a torque arm mount.
Most people seem to be cutting the center out of the 8.8 rear and using the f-body axle tubes with the brackets already in place. Making a TA mount, some people even use the stock f-body axles.
I've looked into this swap for a short time. I've seen wider 8.8's in bigger cars and even seen some with vented brake rotors. But I didn't measure anything.
I think the cheapest way for you to go is to get an 8.8 with decent brakes and close to the right width and make a torque arm mount for it that is welded to the axle tubes or anything other than the cast iron.
Then you still might need to get the axles redrilled (depending on wheels you use), and you have to buy the rear.
Then theres gears. It seems like every truck I look at has 3.55's or 3.73's with a limited slip, and all cars have 3.27's with open diff's.
The thing with the ranger/explorer 8.8 in an S10 is the fact that the passenger side axle tube is 3" longer than the drivers side. When the passenger side of the housing is shortened 3" you can take a stock drivers side axle and use it on the passenger side. And it all ends up only 1" wider than the stock S10 rear and the pinion is centered.
But for an f-body is a whole different process. The f-body rear is approx 62" so an explorer rear won't work unless you wanted it narrowed anyway. If thats the case you'd have to do something with the brakes and make a torque arm mount.
Most people seem to be cutting the center out of the 8.8 rear and using the f-body axle tubes with the brackets already in place. Making a TA mount, some people even use the stock f-body axles.
I've looked into this swap for a short time. I've seen wider 8.8's in bigger cars and even seen some with vented brake rotors. But I didn't measure anything.
I think the cheapest way for you to go is to get an 8.8 with decent brakes and close to the right width and make a torque arm mount for it that is welded to the axle tubes or anything other than the cast iron.
Then you still might need to get the axles redrilled (depending on wheels you use), and you have to buy the rear.
Then theres gears. It seems like every truck I look at has 3.55's or 3.73's with a limited slip, and all cars have 3.27's with open diff's.
