6spdchevy

iTrader: (2)

Hi, I'm looking to ditch the 10-bolt and step up to a more reliable rearend. I have searched, searched, searched, and read, read, read so now I just would like opinions on what would be a beneficial rearend for a daily driver.

what differentials, gears, axles, splines, etc. Give me a setup

something thats basic, bullet proof and quiet

my car is a 95 Z28 M6 and will remain my DD/street car

thanks

TransWS6Am

iTrader: (41)

m6 or a4?

6spdchevy

iTrader: (2)

its in the post M6

qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

I have a Moser 12 bolt. I don't like it.

Get a MWC 9 inch.

93v8clone

go to quick performance . there 9 in setup is great and very affordible

6spdchevy

iTrader: (2)

Why don't you like it?

qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the tip! Do you have one?

Not as durable as a 9 inch, torque arm bracket is stupid (the moser), and the spring perches are too high.

TransWS6Am

iTrader: (41)

quick performance is very affordable, i was considering them, but ended up going with MWC

garygnu

check out Brute speeds website .you can get a moser 12 bolt ,or 9" rear end.read about the different differentials and ask some questions and email Bob to get the right rear set for you.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

I don't mean to jack, but what's the weight differences between each choice? (10b, 12b, 9", 8.8 fab) Parasitic differences with each? I'm in the same boat as OP. 9" seems a bit heavy. Occasional track use with me, but I could go MORE and run harder without worries with a 9" though.

6spdchevy

iTrader: (2)

yea i've done all that minus emailing bob, or any other sponser iwas going to do that instead of creating a thread but i just thought people would have opinions or recommendations on a good street setup for a DD that will handle abuse and stay quiet

93v8clone

yes i have one of the quick perf rear ends . i got it in a week or so . moser axles etc etc . great guys , great support . also it is cheaper than mosers and ya get a way better trq arm mnt , for the same product really . id stay 9in . think about it , the weight of the rear is where ya want it- " in the rear of the car " durable as hell - the 12 bolt dont last long in our cars cause of the trq arm and loads it imposes on the pinion bearing - etc etc . the list could go on and on . am i sayin there better than the rest ? nope but there a great affordable option and ya will feel comfortable using them

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

Really you can't go wrong with any of them, granted I would stay away from the 12-bolt's like others have mentioned and try to do your research on other companies floating around and items they use in their build especially bearing choices, material, and such.

By your signature it seems you might be into handling and we do offer a Watts link for our fabricated housing that is built in like our torque and sway bar mounts are, that way no bulky extra brackets.

We are looking at doing a Watts link for other rear ends on the market.

6spdchevy

iTrader: (2)

yea handling, corner carving.

i was leaning toward a 9

and thats 1 thing i liked about MWC was how the torque arm and sway bar mounts were built in and also the deposit program or service you offer

what can u recommend for a DD/street car 6-speed from your company? like stated in the op i just want reliable, bullet proof, and whine free rearend. so i go 9 inch. next i know i dont want/need a spool or locker for a DD so whats a better fit a true trac or true lock? or is there another dif/posi unit better suitable for DD? billet clutch type?

i just want a simple bolt in set up nothing overkill if that even makes sense lol and 500rwhp MAX

thanks

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Did you check out the M9, which is the fabricated Moser 9 inch? It doesn't weigh anymore than the 10 bolt does? It comes with a great torque arm and transmission crossmember, and doesn't use a bulky torque arm mount. Here is a link to it. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-M9-...y-Complete.htm Bob

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

We don't recommend the 12 bolt for any street driven M6 car... quiet at first and then has been known to pick up gear noise after abuse.
One thing about our 9 inch setup is that when packaged with an aluminum center section the whole rearend is within a few pounds of the stock 10 bolt, so there is no difference in the feel of the car from the added weight of the other rearends.

With your power range a Truetrac diff would work well, but be borderline for strength if launched hard. We would probably opt to put you in the billet trac-lock posi or a Wavetrac. There is another diff unit coming on the market, but is not available to the public just yet. It will be a great affordable option to those in this same situation.

Best thing to do is call us where we can discuss with you the options and your budget so you do it right the first time, one of the reasons we don't offer website purchasing. We want to talk with our customers as this is a large purchase usually and don't need someone to call or say "I wish I would have". We hear that a lot from people that have purchased rears from others and are switching to our setup. At the end of the day when you compare apples to apples you will find the MWC fabricated 9 inch package is unbeatable in price, quality, and value. We will get you taken care of with the right parts and the right price, guaranteed.


As far as whine goes, that is always a subject with the aftermarket rearends, especially in the f-body cars due to the torque arm and suspension transmitting the resonance through the car. Our 9" rearend package comes with a chromemoly adjustable torque arm and it is coupled to the crossmember with a Teflon lined(no metal to metal contact, permanently lubed) heim joint, via a 4 hole height adjustable pivot link. The pivot link is attached to the crossmember through a Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing that isolates most of the noise associated with the aftermarket torque arms, but has nothing to do with gear whine.

I can almost guarantee anyone that any aftermarket rearend is gonna make more noise than what GM engineered into these cars.
A few reasons...
99% of f-body people have aftermarket control arms and torque arm attached to their rearends, and they have either poly, roto-joint style, or heim joint ends. These ends are much harder in durometer(hardness gauge) than the stock rubber bushings and will inherently transmit more noise into the car. You sacrifice this to limit deflection which causes wheel hop and less stability in handling that comes from the stock rubber bushings. Price you pay for performance.
Aftermarket performance style gears are not engineered for comfort, plain and simple. AAM manufactures the oem gearsets than came in the 7.5 rearends in these cars and is what we always suggest when someone asks about a gear change for their 10 bolt. There are a lot of high quality gears out there but they just aren't engineered for quiet operation. If someone searches enough you will find that every rearend manufacturer out there has had issues at some point with gear noise, especially in the f-body cars. Not one of us... MWC, Moser, Strange, QP, etc. manufactures gears. We are purchasing them from whoever we can and are limited to their engineering and quality and can do nothing but our best ability to set them up as best possible. Bad thing is there is no way to tell if a gear will make any noise until it is installed in the car, and that puts us all in a bad spot. I have used US Gear(when they were doing automotive applications), Motive Performance, Richmond, and the new style Yukon gears in our builds. They are all high quality, but some have been more prone for noise than others. Richmond in particular is probably the highest quality of them all for strength and design, only American made gear, and incidentally had the worst issues with noise. I still prefer Richmond gears in the faster cars that aren't concerned about a little gear whine.
Last, the 9 inch design is the worst for noise, but the best for strength due to the pinion being located lower from centerline compared to all the others. This design also creates the most heat, and is extremely important to do the break-in procedure correctly compared to the other designs. There is a reason why it is by far the most popular design for aftermarket rearends in all makes of rwd performance applications.

So there you have the real explanation of the situation, coming from someone who knows the real deal and not just selling you parts out of their basement to make a buck. My hands are dirty most of the day...

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Nice one Eric, you know I use to look the other way when you would make remarks like this, but over the years I got fed up with it. My wife is still battling with her thyroid condition, but my bulging disc in my neck is much better this year, and I am in the planning stages of putting up a new building. Oh, and I don't work out of my basement... Bob

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

wasn't at you Bob... there are a lot of other people around here and other internet sites doing just that and it ruins the market. Remember the days when Accessible Technologies, Inc. wouldn't sell to anyone without experience, and had to have a shop with install bays? I'm sure you know where I am coming from.
I have seen you guys in action @ the dragstrip and EPP was a great shop when it was still running. Good luck with the med issues... that's no good for anyone.

93v8clone

i have to applaude both of u guys . your one of the few on here takin the time and effort to explain things and why . thats a rare find nowadays , i talked to both of you guys when i was shopping for a diff , unf i didnt have the money for a for a fabbed 9in nor did i trust mosers setup "moreso " the trq arm brackets lol . but q/p fit the bill and i loved the adj trq arm mnt . to bob , good luck with your battles and your wife i know what its like to try and get stuff done with a bulge disc , i have scoliosis and degenative joint disease and days it is tuff as hell to get up and do this **** lol . good luck man

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Thanks, we appreciate it! I broke my neck in three places when I was 17, ever since then I've lifted weights to keep my back strong. Every time I slack off I start having problems. I got to where I was doing calve raises with 305 pounds of barbell on my shoulders for over a decade, and that is what I think caused my ruptured disc. The drive to the last LSX Shootout in Memphis was pure torture, at one point I had to pull over and my wife wanted to take me to a hospital. Naturally, I was too stupid to have any part of that... These days I'm doing much better, I went through physical therapy which really helped out. It sounds like you have your hands full with your health problems, it is really cool that you can even think about cars! Bob