Replacing U-Joint On Aluminum DS...
05-10-2011, 06:27 PM
#23
I've got my Driveshaft out while doing a clutch install and noticed the rear U-joint is a little stiff. They're both the factory originals, so I figure I'll just replace them both. This will be my first experience with replacing U-joints in an Aluminum Driveshaft.
I have the new U-joints (2-3011) that I purchased from Carquest (the same place I get all my U-joints). So I'm 99% positive I have the correct ones.
I've replaced countless U-joints in the past and planned to use the same method for these.
Normally, if its necessary, I heat up the end to get the nylon/plastic **** to ooze out the holes. Or if the joint has been replaced in the past, I remove the C-clips holding the Caps in place.
Then I either place the driveshaft in a vice or prop it up on some wood blocks on the floor of the shop and beat on the old joint to get the Caps to come out of their holes in the yoke.
Once the Caps are out, the old U-joint is removed and I clean the holes that they rest in with a Scotchbrite Pad or some Emery Cloth.
Next I remove the caps from the new joint (carefully, so I don't loose any needle bearings) and then place the joint in the yoke.
Then I take one of the caps and gently drive it into its hole with a C-clamp and a proper size socket. Repeat the process for the other side and I'm done.
I understand that Aluminum is soft, but its also pretty strong. Am I really gonna **** up my driveshaft if I just beat the old joints out?
I have already heated the ends to get the nylon out so the old caps can be removed. Maybe I've already fucked my DS by doing this?
What benefit is there to using a press to accomplish this over the method I have been using?
I have the new U-joints (2-3011) that I purchased from Carquest (the same place I get all my U-joints). So I'm 99% positive I have the correct ones.
I've replaced countless U-joints in the past and planned to use the same method for these.
Normally, if its necessary, I heat up the end to get the nylon/plastic **** to ooze out the holes. Or if the joint has been replaced in the past, I remove the C-clips holding the Caps in place.
Then I either place the driveshaft in a vice or prop it up on some wood blocks on the floor of the shop and beat on the old joint to get the Caps to come out of their holes in the yoke.
Once the Caps are out, the old U-joint is removed and I clean the holes that they rest in with a Scotchbrite Pad or some Emery Cloth.
Next I remove the caps from the new joint (carefully, so I don't loose any needle bearings) and then place the joint in the yoke.
Then I take one of the caps and gently drive it into its hole with a C-clamp and a proper size socket. Repeat the process for the other side and I'm done.
I understand that Aluminum is soft, but its also pretty strong. Am I really gonna **** up my driveshaft if I just beat the old joints out?
I have already heated the ends to get the nylon out so the old caps can be removed. Maybe I've already fucked my DS by doing this?
What benefit is there to using a press to accomplish this over the method I have been using?
Last edited by Mumbles; 05-10-2011 at 07:37 PM.
05-11-2011, 12:17 AM
#24
There happen to be a Ball-joint Kit in the shop that my brother had borrowed from a friend that contained a Press. It worked perfectly.
Adjust it to size. Crank it down slowly and "POP!" The first cap comes right out. Remove the cap from the yoke and turn the press around and repeat for the other side.
I won't be beating any more U-joints out of the Yoke (unless its a "last resort" situation). I highly recommend everyone else do the same.
