8.8 Mini ladder bars suspension problems
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8.8 Mini ladder bars suspension problems
Ok well first for the background info. 8.8 swap with the 10 bolt tubes welded on, stock length. Used 4.10 gears and traclok, moser axles. 98 firebird, 6 speed. Anyways my main problem is my rear end feels like it rocks back and forth, possibly from play in the ladderbars. So Im wondering how much play in the ladder bars is too much? The holes in the brackets I had punched out by a metal shop not drilled out but they seem pretty tight and the rods only have a bit of play when i get them loose. Just installed the moog bushings hoping that would help but it didnt. Stock lower controls arms btw. Oh and another thing my buddy pointed out the other day. My car anti-squats really bad, and with the "ladder bars" being so short, when the rear lifts, is it creating a really bad pinion angle? Sorry for the long post, been trying to figure this out for a while.
-Will
-Will
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Ya I know they arent the best, but the torque arm setup would have been much more expensive and I dont have the cash for it right now. Just trying to figure out why it feels like my axle is wrapping. I can here it clunk/pop when i go from decel to accel like the ladder bars are allowing slack. Even though Ive tightened everything time and time again. Could it be my bracket holes are slightly too big?
-Will
-Will
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did a ladderbar last summer, my lcas were blown out so there was a tiny bit of movement, but otther then that it felt fine, besides the rear popping up when you would shift or give it gas.. i used all chromoly Teflon heim joints so they were really nice, here is a pic of mine. edit, make sure your bushing in your lcas arent blown out.. like i said mine were and there was some movement there.
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Ya i replaced my stock LCA bushings for the hard rubber versions to eliminate that. Is there some sort of metal bracket bushing that I could weld in to make sure the fit on the bolt is perfect? Im using a 5/8 bolt now so if I could weld in a bushing of some sort then use rod end bushings and use a smaller bolt I would, but dunno if that will change anything. It feels like my axle is wrapping a small amount and making a popping noise from the rod end slack being taken up. Also lttransam how did you go about making sure your ladder bars were equal length on each side, and the axle rotation angle isnt different per side? Thanks for the help guys
-Will
-Will
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But I dont think my brackets are perfectly even on the axle, so I think on rod is a little longer than the other. Was wondering if you measured off the body somehow. Drago if you have the means to do a torque arm, do it. The torque arm suites these cars so much better. But if you dont, then I dont think the mini ladder bars are that bad. The insane antisquat is the major downfall for men, but I just ordered some competition engineering drag shocks so hopefully I can help that. It hits the tires super hard lol
-Will
-Will
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ladder bars in general "anti-squat". When doing the upper bar, try to make it as long as possible. That will soften the initial hit. Mine will be on the track in the next couple weeks so I will let you know.
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Thats what I did, made mine as long as possible, but be for warned, don't make it too long. Otherwise it will come in contact with the frame rail...ask me how I know although honestly, i don't think it actually matters, cause the mounting point for the LCA is what needs to be farther forwards.
-Will
-Will
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And on I side note I just installed some competition engineering drag shocks this weekend, and wow did they help. The major anti-squat is gone, the rear still anti-squats a little from dig, but getting on it from a roll it squats barely and the front lifts. Feels 10 times better
-Will
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And on I side note I just installed some competition engineering drag shocks this weekend, and wow did they help. The major anti-squat is gone, the rear still anti-squats a little from dig, but getting on it from a roll it squats barely and the front lifts. Feels 10 times better
-Will
-Will
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