What causes the 10 bolt to blow apart when changing gears?
05-26-2011, 02:45 PM
#21
I'd say if your not goin to the track & launching your gonna be ok. I broke a stock 3.42 rear on street tires at the track, completely broke the posi housing & the pinion jumped off the ring gear & imprinted itself on the posi housing, lol.
Since having it rebuilt with a fresh set of 3.42's a couple years ago its been quite since. I dont race much just daily drive now days & romp on it from a roll sometimes. I dont think goin to a 3.73 will hurt anything if they are set up properly & your not goin to the track. You will feel a difference, not like jumpin to a 4.10 but if your doin city driving shifting constantly gets very annoying.
Since having it rebuilt with a fresh set of 3.42's a couple years ago its been quite since. I dont race much just daily drive now days & romp on it from a roll sometimes. I dont think goin to a 3.73 will hurt anything if they are set up properly & your not goin to the track. You will feel a difference, not like jumpin to a 4.10 but if your doin city driving shifting constantly gets very annoying.
05-26-2011, 03:09 PM
#22
I wouldn't bother with going from a 3.42 to a 3.73. I went with the Motive 3.90s and have been quite pleased thus far. The 3.90 is a good compromise gear -- you get the benefit of the gear swap (running quicker through the gears) without sacraficing too much from a mileage perspective.
My 3.90's have a light whine between 65 - 75 and otherwise they're pretty quiet.
When I swap to a 9" or 12-Bolt, I'll likely go with a 4.10 to compliment my setup.
My 3.90's have a light whine between 65 - 75 and otherwise they're pretty quiet.
When I swap to a 9" or 12-Bolt, I'll likely go with a 4.10 to compliment my setup.
05-26-2011, 06:40 PM
#24
Launching!
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I'd say if your not goin to the track & launching your gonna be ok. I broke a stock 3.42 rear on street tires at the track, completely broke the posi housing & the pinion jumped off the ring gear & imprinted itself on the posi housing, lol.
Since having it rebuilt with a fresh set of 3.42's a couple years ago its been quite since. I dont race much just daily drive now days & romp on it from a roll sometimes. I dont think goin to a 3.73 will hurt anything if they are set up properly & your not goin to the track. You will feel a difference, not like jumpin to a 4.10 but if your doin city driving shifting constantly gets very annoying.
Since having it rebuilt with a fresh set of 3.42's a couple years ago its been quite since. I dont race much just daily drive now days & romp on it from a roll sometimes. I dont think goin to a 3.73 will hurt anything if they are set up properly & your not goin to the track. You will feel a difference, not like jumpin to a 4.10 but if your doin city driving shifting constantly gets very annoying.
05-26-2011, 06:46 PM
#25
Launching!
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I wouldn't bother with going from a 3.42 to a 3.73. I went with the Motive 3.90s and have been quite pleased thus far. The 3.90 is a good compromise gear -- you get the benefit of the gear swap (running quicker through the gears) without sacraficing too much from a mileage perspective.
My 3.90's have a light whine between 65 - 75 and otherwise they're pretty quiet.
When I swap to a 9" or 12-Bolt, I'll likely go with a 4.10 to compliment my setup.
My 3.90's have a light whine between 65 - 75 and otherwise they're pretty quiet.
When I swap to a 9" or 12-Bolt, I'll likely go with a 4.10 to compliment my setup.
05-26-2011, 09:41 PM
#26
Well, it would seem that the weak link is not that the gears are too small (which is the general assumption, but if you look at the teeth themselves they are not much smaller than a 8.5" rears gear teeth), it is the fact that the housings have too much give overall in regards to flex. Launch hard with sticky tires and the axle tubes will pull forward and you run the risk of pulling everything out of alignment and boom, there goes the rear...
Basically to bullet-proof the rear enough you are talking a properly setup set of gears, Moser or other upgraded axles, new bearings throughout (to lessen the likely-hood of too much play), a reinforcement cover that loads the bearing caps, bearing cap studs, weld up the axle tubes and put a brace kit on the axle tubes to prevent them from pulling out of alignment... Do all of that and you stand the best chance of keeping the 10-bolt alive...
I personally have done all the above to the 10-bolt I am replacing my stock one with... I have a Eaton HD posi unit, new Motive Performance 3.73 gears setup damn near perfect, new Timken bearings throughout, new Moser axles, ARP bearing cap studs, LPW Ultimate 7.5 rear cover with bearing-cap reinforcement and the LPW axle-tube brace kit. I also welded up the axle tubes, installed Spohn relo brackets, and then cleaned up the rear with Marine Clean, then Metal Prep then a couple coats of POR-15. Rebuilt it with all the above and a Master install kit and it is sitting in the garage waiting to be installed at this point along with a chromemoly driveshaft...
If this one breaks (after having spent over $1k on it) I will not hesitate to go with a S60 or 12-bolt... But I firmly believe that a fully reinforced and properly setup 10-bolt will live just fine as long as it is taken care of... And for my application I am talking 99% street driving, only taking it to the track once or twice... But, then again, I am also talking about 700-800 HP at the flywheel, so we shall see...
Basically to bullet-proof the rear enough you are talking a properly setup set of gears, Moser or other upgraded axles, new bearings throughout (to lessen the likely-hood of too much play), a reinforcement cover that loads the bearing caps, bearing cap studs, weld up the axle tubes and put a brace kit on the axle tubes to prevent them from pulling out of alignment... Do all of that and you stand the best chance of keeping the 10-bolt alive...
I personally have done all the above to the 10-bolt I am replacing my stock one with... I have a Eaton HD posi unit, new Motive Performance 3.73 gears setup damn near perfect, new Timken bearings throughout, new Moser axles, ARP bearing cap studs, LPW Ultimate 7.5 rear cover with bearing-cap reinforcement and the LPW axle-tube brace kit. I also welded up the axle tubes, installed Spohn relo brackets, and then cleaned up the rear with Marine Clean, then Metal Prep then a couple coats of POR-15. Rebuilt it with all the above and a Master install kit and it is sitting in the garage waiting to be installed at this point along with a chromemoly driveshaft...
If this one breaks (after having spent over $1k on it) I will not hesitate to go with a S60 or 12-bolt... But I firmly believe that a fully reinforced and properly setup 10-bolt will live just fine as long as it is taken care of... And for my application I am talking 99% street driving, only taking it to the track once or twice... But, then again, I am also talking about 700-800 HP at the flywheel, so we shall see...
05-27-2011, 11:37 AM
#27
To me id never spend a cent on this junk 10 bolt they are pretty much useless.....automatics get some life out of them but not the 6 speeds. I picked up a stock rear for 200 bucks just for a spare when i blow mine i'll throw that in and be nice to it till i buy a ford 9" they are so heavy but theres nothing else i can do really to hold it
05-27-2011, 01:38 PM
#28
How bad is the whine on a scale of 1-10? I have a cam, headers, and GMMG so I'm sure I could drown out much of anything...lol. I've really been looking at the 3.90s but I searched a few threads and people are saying that the quality of Motives has gone to **** and that they typically whine due to the pitch the gears are cut to make them a 3.90. I don't track the car...more of a garage queen/in town car so I'm afraid I wouldn't like 4.10s due to shifting all the time. But some of the stuff I've read on here about Motive's doesn't sound good either so I dunno. I always thought gear whine was due to the installer setting the gears up right or not??? The consensus seems to be use GM or Yukon 4.10's from what I've read. I'm sold on the idea of the 3.90 but just not on the Motive brand and of course they are the only ones that make that gear ratio.
I was actually pleased with the quality of the Motives I have, however I understand that there were two different kits when I purchased mine. I don't recall the specifics however it was my understanding one of the lines offered (advertised) greater strength/durability and I went that direction. Could be a complete hoax however I thought it was the right thing to do at the time.
I say this cautiously because I know the 10-bolt is a ticking time bomb, however I'm putting down 600+ rwhp on spray with a Nitto 555R and it will hold on a roll in 1st hear when the tires are warm. I'm sure my luck is going to run out eventually and at that time I'll put down the coin for a bomb-proof rear-end.
05-27-2011, 05:53 PM
#29
On a scale of 1-10 (with 10 being so obnoxiously loud that you would stop the car to immediately take them out), I would say the whine is a 3. It's bearable, especially if you already have a cam, headers and exhaust.
I was actually pleased with the quality of the Motives I have, however I understand that there were two different kits when I purchased mine. I don't recall the specifics however it was my understanding one of the lines offered (advertised) greater strength/durability and I went that direction. Could be a complete hoax however I thought it was the right thing to do at the time.
I say this cautiously because I know the 10-bolt is a ticking time bomb, however I'm putting down 600+ rwhp on spray with a Nitto 555R and it will hold on a roll in 1st hear when the tires are warm. I'm sure my luck is going to run out eventually and at that time I'll put down the coin for a bomb-proof rear-end.
I was actually pleased with the quality of the Motives I have, however I understand that there were two different kits when I purchased mine. I don't recall the specifics however it was my understanding one of the lines offered (advertised) greater strength/durability and I went that direction. Could be a complete hoax however I thought it was the right thing to do at the time.
I say this cautiously because I know the 10-bolt is a ticking time bomb, however I'm putting down 600+ rwhp on spray with a Nitto 555R and it will hold on a roll in 1st hear when the tires are warm. I'm sure my luck is going to run out eventually and at that time I'll put down the coin for a bomb-proof rear-end.
05-29-2011, 02:20 PM
#30
What broke that rear end was wheel hop on the street... I ended up putting 3.23s in the 10bolt and drove it for another couple years like that (really liked the 3.23s too at the hp/torque level I was at)...
Ended up replacing the 10-bolt with a S60 with 3.55 gears, but that was when I stepped up the hp levels to over 900hp on blower alone... Then, since it was all built, I decided to add some nitrous...
05-29-2011, 07:07 PM
#31
Actually, I ran a 10-bolt for years with stock 3.42s putting out over 750hp at the flywheel... I was running 132-134mph trap speeds...
What broke that rear end was wheel hop on the street... I ended up putting 3.23s in the 10bolt and drove it for another couple years like that (really liked the 3.23s too at the hp/torque level I was at)...
Ended up replacing the 10-bolt with a S60 with 3.55 gears, but that was when I stepped up the hp levels to over 900hp on blower alone... Then, since it was all built, I decided to add some nitrous...
What broke that rear end was wheel hop on the street... I ended up putting 3.23s in the 10bolt and drove it for another couple years like that (really liked the 3.23s too at the hp/torque level I was at)...
Ended up replacing the 10-bolt with a S60 with 3.55 gears, but that was when I stepped up the hp levels to over 900hp on blower alone... Then, since it was all built, I decided to add some nitrous...
