Axle seals
Axle seals I filled up with gas about 20 miles from my house, and as usual I walk around the car and don't see anything out of the ordinary. I get home and there is gear oil all over my wheel and everything on the passenger side rear. I am guessing it is the wheel seal. I am not sure if the bearing is bad or anything. Is there an easy way to tell? What parts should I get to fix it for now. I am looking at a 12 bolt later this year but just need to drive it for now as it is my DD. Thanks.
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 970
Likes: 4
From: England UK
Jack the car up and wobble the wheel to feel for play. If no play the bearing is good. To change the seal its not much more work to change the bearing. You need to take the axle out to change the seal.
Take the wheel off, and the 2 bolts behind the caliper. Hang the caliper on some wire or something so there isn't an stress on the brake pipe. Open the rear end, get ready to catch the oil. Take the blcok out of the middle of the diff to get at the c-clip, you will need to slide the axel in to center of the car to get at the c-clip, pliers are good to grab it. Now the axle will slide right out.
Use a screw driver to leaver the seal out. If you are changing the bearing you will need a slide hammer or bearing puller.
Now tap in new bearing, using a tube to tap it in and keep is straight. Tap on the new seal. And put it back together.
When putting in oil you may need the GM Slip Dff additive depending on your diff.
So parts needed, seal, bearing, gm diff additive, oil, silicon as a gasket for diff cover.
Take the wheel off, and the 2 bolts behind the caliper. Hang the caliper on some wire or something so there isn't an stress on the brake pipe. Open the rear end, get ready to catch the oil. Take the blcok out of the middle of the diff to get at the c-clip, you will need to slide the axel in to center of the car to get at the c-clip, pliers are good to grab it. Now the axle will slide right out.
Use a screw driver to leaver the seal out. If you are changing the bearing you will need a slide hammer or bearing puller.
Now tap in new bearing, using a tube to tap it in and keep is straight. Tap on the new seal. And put it back together.
When putting in oil you may need the GM Slip Dff additive depending on your diff.
So parts needed, seal, bearing, gm diff additive, oil, silicon as a gasket for diff cover.
I got the axle out and the axle has a groove in it where the bearing is. Can I go back together with it if I replace the bearing and seal? Or do I need to absolutely replace the axle shaft now?
You can put it back together like that, it may make some growling noise. It should get you by until you get your 12 bolt. You can also check craigs list for a cheap used axle, I gave mine away for free on CL.
Thats what they claim I believe. I can't link one though because they are not from a sponsor here and I don't want to get in trouble. I saw someone had said something about them before possibly. They are from one of the major auto parts houses. Just search for repair bearings and tell me what you think please. Just HAVE to get this thing put back together.
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Verdad Gallardo Sounds good. I will put it together in the morning with a repair bearing for now. Since I run on such a short budget... and just bought this T/A this week... is it possible to get the new rear one piece at a time until I have the complete thing. Can't spend 2400 off the bat for a 12 bolt and if I try to save it, it gets spent on things that are cheaper.
I heard there was a couple of different types of these though. There was axle savers and then there was repair bearings. The axle savers from what I understand move the wheel out about 1/8 inch and causes the problem in the post that you posted. The repair bearing is supposed to go in at the same depth as the factory bearing/seal but just move the bearing a bit. So I don't see how if it is at the same depth/i.e. flush with the end of the axle tube, how it could cause that problem. I mean I don't know much, but just seeing if there is a difference. I noticed it said that the guy's axle had the shim and that was the problem. So, I am thinking same depth for mounting = good to go?
Well... Just an update. The repair bearings that I bought fit perfectly and did move the bearing inside the axle so it is riding in a different spot. There is no noise and there was absolutely no problems betting the axle or c-clips back in. The auto parts store had 2 parts. 1 was called an axle saver and the other was a repair bearing. I used to one called repair bearing. Just some info in case anyone else runs into this problem.
I recommend the Ratech brand of seals and bearings, since I've personally had great luck with them thus far. Recently I've replaced both axles with ones from Superior. Those are very high quality pieces as well. I am running superior axles in both camaros.
Great time to check to see if both axles run true. I replaced one axle w/o checking the other. Turns out they were both bent, lol. Had to tear it back open again, go rent all the tools, buy more parts, etc.
good luck!
Great time to check to see if both axles run true. I replaced one axle w/o checking the other. Turns out they were both bent, lol. Had to tear it back open again, go rent all the tools, buy more parts, etc.
good luck!
I have a feeling the passenger side axle is bent because it was harder to go in and out of the car. I inspected the splines on the spider gear and the axle and they were both clean and straight but it was a pita. The driver's side slid in and out easily. I am just going to replace them both and rule it out. I might as well since the rear is coming apart again anyways. I am also thinking of a gear at the same time and a support cover. I only see the track like once a month and on my last T/A I saw 70,000 miles on my 10 bolt built like that going to the track every 2 weeks with drag radials before I sold it.
