Mopar 8 3/4 going into my 99 TransAm
#1
Mopar 8 3/4 going into my 99 TransAm
I've always built old Mopars... and I have a B Body 8 3/4 rear end sittin' in the garage. I'm gonna cut & weld the thing to fit in my WS6.
My plan is to weld on all new brackets (coil mounts, etc), re-size the axle tubes for correct width, weld on the correct end caps for the backing plates. Then I'll have Moser cut me some custom length 33 spline axles with an adapter ring installed for the reluctors.
Since I have all the tools necessary for welding, cutting, and even the jig and tools required for narrowing rear-ends... I am without fear.
One more thing, I dont run a torque arm, so no worries about the pinion mount
I'll take pics of the process and post up when I'm done. PEACE!
My plan is to weld on all new brackets (coil mounts, etc), re-size the axle tubes for correct width, weld on the correct end caps for the backing plates. Then I'll have Moser cut me some custom length 33 spline axles with an adapter ring installed for the reluctors.
Since I have all the tools necessary for welding, cutting, and even the jig and tools required for narrowing rear-ends... I am without fear.
One more thing, I dont run a torque arm, so no worries about the pinion mount
I'll take pics of the process and post up when I'm done. PEACE!
Last edited by GainesvilleLS1; 03-04-2004 at 01:05 AM.
#2
10 Second Club
sounds awsome, i wanted to do the same thing with a GM 8.5 that i got sitting around. only problem i got is the torque arm mount. i also thought of useing latter bars to eliminate the torque arm and control arms, but then i will not be able to race in any of the LS1 shootouts (which i plan on doing alot). i also have the knowledge and everything avalible to do it but the torque arm is the only set back. cast iron is just to hard to weld on and i would not trust it in a car i plan on going over 130mph in . there has to be another solution to do it.
#3
Here's what my current rear end looks like without a TA. Its tight, lifts the entire car up in the air, and I cant wait to test it at the track.... but it removes the TA mounting problem, and gets that thing out of the tunnel. Note: I also braced my 10 bolt for some added stength.
Last edited by GainesvilleLS1; 02-28-2004 at 08:29 PM.
#6
I bought a set of Lakewood Lift Bars from Jegs cuz I wasnt hooking and thought I'd give 'em a try instead of LCA extensions (car is lowered). Once I got them installed I realized that they made the torque arm redundant, so I hucked that big long chunk of steel. It opened up my tunnel real nice! The setup worked great, but the lower traction arms were wayyy to weak to hold the weight of the vehicle, and in fact I popped one of the Lakewood puny 5/8" heim joints. So I contacted Spohn and they made me a set of custom length bars with big fat 7/8" poly-heims. (13.5" eye to eye). Spohn simply modified the length of existing adjustable lower control arms.
Once I got the rear end rebuilt with Moser axles, a new Torsen, 3.73 gears and braced it across the back, I modified the Lakewood control arms with new 3 position brackets (radius'd) so i could adjust the lower arms if needed. Also, I welded key spots on the mounting plates so they would not break (welded together and to the rear end). I can preload one side or the other just by turning a heim... and I can adjust my pinion angle by turning the heims.
I also removed the rear sway bar to allow more rearend wrap and body seperation.
I've been trying to get to the track, but man, my life is interesting right now, to say the least. I'll post up results asap!
Peace
Once I got the rear end rebuilt with Moser axles, a new Torsen, 3.73 gears and braced it across the back, I modified the Lakewood control arms with new 3 position brackets (radius'd) so i could adjust the lower arms if needed. Also, I welded key spots on the mounting plates so they would not break (welded together and to the rear end). I can preload one side or the other just by turning a heim... and I can adjust my pinion angle by turning the heims.
I also removed the rear sway bar to allow more rearend wrap and body seperation.
I've been trying to get to the track, but man, my life is interesting right now, to say the least. I'll post up results asap!
Peace
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#8
If I'm back in town from my interview in VT by Friday I'll be at the track, but on street tires (255/50's). So spin is likely, but I'm just dying to see if it'll hook any better! Last time at the track, I spun the first 120 ft. and ran a 10.30 at 86 mph. Nice little Honda Civic drove around me and ran a 10.38 at 73 mph. It was pretty funny... heh. At least my MPH is promising of good things to come!
I'll post video! Peace!
I'll post video! Peace!
#9
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Does it lift the rear of the car on hard acceleration?
Also I don't think that you will gain anything by removing the rear sway bar. I think it would actually help plant the tires more evenly. Tell me if I am missing something.
Later,
Bart
Also I don't think that you will gain anything by removing the rear sway bar. I think it would actually help plant the tires more evenly. Tell me if I am missing something.
Later,
Bart
#10
It lifts the whole car on hard acceleration
The only reason the sway bar needs to be attached on your car, is because you have a torque arm. Its basically a big huge long pivot point. In a sense, its an i-beam down the center of your car, perfect for the body to rotate on.... the sway bar helps keep it square.
This setup puts the traction devices on the very outer edges of the rear axles, and with the heims, I can add preload if necessary to straighten things out. I dont need a sway, or an airbag.
Its actually very simple, and very effective. I'm heading to the track this Friday night. Will post up vids. It'll be on street tires, so I'm hoping it aint too messy!
The only reason the sway bar needs to be attached on your car, is because you have a torque arm. Its basically a big huge long pivot point. In a sense, its an i-beam down the center of your car, perfect for the body to rotate on.... the sway bar helps keep it square.
This setup puts the traction devices on the very outer edges of the rear axles, and with the heims, I can add preload if necessary to straighten things out. I dont need a sway, or an airbag.
Its actually very simple, and very effective. I'm heading to the track this Friday night. Will post up vids. It'll be on street tires, so I'm hoping it aint too messy!
Last edited by GainesvilleLS1; 03-04-2004 at 01:02 AM.
#11
10 Second Club
Originally Posted by GainesvilleLS1
If I'm back in town from my interview in VT by Friday I'll be at the track, but on street tires (255/50's). So spin is likely, but I'm just dying to see if it'll hook any better! Last time at the track, I spun the first 120 ft. and ran a 10.30 at 86 mph. Nice little Honda Civic drove around me and ran a 10.38 at 73 mph. It was pretty funny... heh. At least my MPH is promising of good things to come!
I'll post video! Peace!
I'll post video! Peace!
#12
Yessir, 1/8th mile.
FYI: I am flying to VT for an interview on Friday. Gonna have to get to the track next weekend
Typically I dont like gunning it on the street since I seem to get arrested when I do that (seriously), but tonight my curiosity got the best of me and rolling along at 5mph I nailed it and I can say things are very good. I have never felt this car dig in so violently hard and lift so high. Gave me the big grin And again this is on 255/50 Yoko V rated street tires. It used to just go up in smoke.
FYI: I am flying to VT for an interview on Friday. Gonna have to get to the track next weekend
Typically I dont like gunning it on the street since I seem to get arrested when I do that (seriously), but tonight my curiosity got the best of me and rolling along at 5mph I nailed it and I can say things are very good. I have never felt this car dig in so violently hard and lift so high. Gave me the big grin And again this is on 255/50 Yoko V rated street tires. It used to just go up in smoke.
#14
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
When I had those Lakewoods I broke the tab that fits in behind the shock, a few of us did a few years ago.