diff covers. T/A griddle vs. AAM cover
diff covers. T/A griddle vs. AAM cover I need to replace the pinion seal in my rear end. I have heard that adding an aftermarket cover can help make my 10 bolt last longer. I am leaning towards the AAM cover since it was a option on Firehawk's (and it will be going on my Hawk, which I would like to keep pretty original), and it is only $90 compared to the T/A cover for $150.
Any advice on which one to get? I am leaning heavily towards the AAM, unless the T/A has significant improvements over the AAM on a STREET car.
AAM:
T/A:
Please don't say "don't waist your money on the 10 bolt, go to a 9 inch." This is not a daily driver and not a track car. Just a nice day cruiser.
Thanks
Any advice on which one to get? I am leaning heavily towards the AAM, unless the T/A has significant improvements over the AAM on a STREET car.
AAM:
T/A:
Please don't say "don't waist your money on the 10 bolt, go to a 9 inch." This is not a daily driver and not a track car. Just a nice day cruiser.
Thanks
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Stud kit will help more IMO, but whether it actually makes the rear end stronger, well thats up for debate. If you are doing a pinion seal swap, why not freshen the bearings in the housing? That would indeed make your rear end stronger. New bearings have less play and distortion then used bearings. Opt for a solid pinion spacer as well. That would be $20 well spent.
Stud kit will help more IMO, but whether it actually makes the rear end stronger, well thats up for debate. If you are doing a pinion seal swap, why not freshen the bearings in the housing? That would indeed make your rear end stronger. New bearings have less play and distortion then used bearings. Opt for a solid pinion spacer as well. That would be $20 well spent.
Thanks
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The SLP cover description says 'minor modifications necessary'. A while back I found the SLP AAM cover installation instructions online somewhere and they say you should grind a drain passage from the axle tube to the center section in the carrier bearing area. The AAM cover has a internal passage that sends oil flung off the ring gear through the cover channel into the holes in the differential housing that are used for the case spreader. This oil fills the axle tubes and needs a way to drain back. This is the "minor" modification. I'm surprised you found one for sale, I thought they were discontinued.
I bought a TA cover with the ARP carrier bearing cap stud kit. The TA cover is a very high quality piece with nice machining made in the USA out of 356 alloy heat treated to T6 hardness, which makes for a pretty nice piece of aluminum.....
I bought a TA cover with the ARP carrier bearing cap stud kit. The TA cover is a very high quality piece with nice machining made in the USA out of 356 alloy heat treated to T6 hardness, which makes for a pretty nice piece of aluminum.....
Last edited by guppymech; Oct 11, 2011 at 08:15 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo What makes it better than the T/A? The price defintaly isn't it.
The SLP cover description says 'minor modifications necessary'. I found the SLP AAM cover installation instructions online somewhere and they say you should grind a drain passage from the axle tube to the center section in the carrier bearing area. The AAM cover has a internal passage that sends oil flung off the ring gear through the cover channel into the holes in the differential housing that are used for the case spreader. This oil fills the axle tubes and needs a way to drain back. This is the minor modification.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Guy made some homemade ones a long time ago. The theory is that under acceleration the rear has to push on the lower control arms to move the car forward. The tires move in a forward push motion and act as a leverage arm on the center pumpkin. Picture it from above. This force as the wheels try to drive themselves into the back of the doors, the LCAs acting as the fulcrum, and the center chunk being suspended by the long axles tubes, forces the center to try to walk rearward. There is nothing to stop it except its own rigidity. The axles braces add strength to the housing itself to prevent this flex under hard acceleration.
Guy made some homemade ones a long time ago. The theory is that under acceleration the rear has to push on the lower control arms to move the car forward. The tires move in a forward push motion and act as a leverage arm on the center pumpkin. Picture it from above. This force as the wheels try to drive themselves into the back of the doors, the LCAs acting as the fulcrum, and the center chunk being suspended by the long axles tubes, forces the center to try to walk rearward. There is nothing to stop it except its own rigidity. The axles braces add strength to the housing itself to prevent this flex under hard acceleration.
Exactly. The axle tubes in a 10-bolt are just pressed into the center housing with maybe a single tack weld. Some people go through the hassle of welding in the axle tubes, but that takes a good bit of work since it's a cast iron peice which takes quite a bit of heat. You have to remove the bearings or else they will get damaged during the process. So to keep the axle tubes from flexing, the braces should help. How much, not sure, but for a street car, it will probably help.
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 876
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From: Catlettsburg, Ky
Idk how much it's helped my car, but the t/a cover, ARP studs, and solid pinion spacer have left me with only breaking 1 driver side axle when I had the 6spd in the car, no amount of parts are going to prevent that other than alloy shafts.
It's perfume on a pig, but atleast you'll know you tried.
It's perfume on a pig, but atleast you'll know you tried.
