z-maro

iTrader: (18)

I need to replace the pinion seal in my rear end. I have heard that adding an aftermarket cover can help make my 10 bolt last longer. I am leaning towards the AAM cover since it was a option on Firehawk's (and it will be going on my Hawk, which I would like to keep pretty original), and it is only $90 compared to the T/A cover for $150.

Any advice on which one to get? I am leaning heavily towards the AAM, unless the T/A has significant improvements over the AAM on a STREET car.

AAM:

T/A:


Please don't say "don't waist your money on the 10 bolt, go to a 9 inch." This is not a daily driver and not a track car. Just a nice day cruiser.

Thanks

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

the TA with the stud kit is much stronger , ran one 10 years and happy,
A4/LOCKER/3.73/MOSE AXLES/DRAG RADIALS pulling 1.64 short time
Johnny

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Stud kit will help more IMO, but whether it actually makes the rear end stronger, well thats up for debate. If you are doing a pinion seal swap, why not freshen the bearings in the housing? That would indeed make your rear end stronger. New bearings have less play and distortion then used bearings. Opt for a solid pinion spacer as well. That would be $20 well spent.

z-maro

iTrader: (18)

What does the stud kit do, and can I use one with the AAM? I do plan on getting the "deluxe" install kit with replacement bearings, and solid spacer. I was just trying the see if there were any benefits of the T/A cover over the AAM cover. Again I am liking the AAM cover since it was an "factory option" on my car, and has a better price. However if the T/A cover is wonders better than AAM I will reconsider. Has anyone here used, or heard anything about the AAM cover?
Thanks

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

LPW is the best rear end girdle. Solid pinion spacer is a great idea and should be used along with new bearings.

SSCamaro99_3

iTrader: (1)

The TA cover better supports the internal structure of the rear. Those two bolts put pressure on the bearing caps to help support them. I sold my AAM to fund my TA Cover.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

The 10bolt has no perfect fix, but if I was going to attempt to strengthen it, I wouldn't waste my time with anything that didn't have the bearing cap support bolts

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

The SLP cover description says 'minor modifications necessary'. A while back I found the SLP AAM cover installation instructions online somewhere and they say you should grind a drain passage from the axle tube to the center section in the carrier bearing area. The AAM cover has a internal passage that sends oil flung off the ring gear through the cover channel into the holes in the differential housing that are used for the case spreader. This oil fills the axle tubes and needs a way to drain back. This is the "minor" modification. I'm surprised you found one for sale, I thought they were discontinued.

I bought a TA cover with the ARP carrier bearing cap stud kit. The TA cover is a very high quality piece with nice machining made in the USA out of 356 alloy heat treated to T6 hardness, which makes for a pretty nice piece of aluminum.....

z-maro

iTrader: (18)

That makes sense, I didn't know that's what they did.

What makes it better than the T/A? The price defintaly isn't it.

I saw that as well, I thought it sounded kinda impressive. There might be a reason that GM agreed to cover it under their warranty, but then again they did put the 10 bolt in these cars, so who knows...

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

http://www.lpwracing.com/Ultimate_GM/Ultimate_GM.html

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Why recommend the Ultimate series cover if he isn't gonna add the axle brace setup. He would be better with the Ultra cover.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

I was unaware of LPW.. How much do the braces help?

85CamaroZ28

iTrader: (7)

Looks like a pretty sweet setup. Never heard of it either. I wonder if anyone on here has used them?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Guy made some homemade ones a long time ago. The theory is that under acceleration the rear has to push on the lower control arms to move the car forward. The tires move in a forward push motion and act as a leverage arm on the center pumpkin. Picture it from above. This force as the wheels try to drive themselves into the back of the doors, the LCAs acting as the fulcrum, and the center chunk being suspended by the long axles tubes, forces the center to try to walk rearward. There is nothing to stop it except its own rigidity. The axles braces add strength to the housing itself to prevent this flex under hard acceleration.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Exactly. The axle tubes in a 10-bolt are just pressed into the center housing with maybe a single tack weld. Some people go through the hassle of welding in the axle tubes, but that takes a good bit of work since it's a cast iron peice which takes quite a bit of heat. You have to remove the bearings or else they will get damaged during the process. So to keep the axle tubes from flexing, the braces should help. How much, not sure, but for a street car, it will probably help.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

LPW looks NICE! First I heard of it....

Mighty Whitey

Idk how much it's helped my car, but the t/a cover, ARP studs, and solid pinion spacer have left me with only breaking 1 driver side axle when I had the 6spd in the car, no amount of parts are going to prevent that other than alloy shafts.

It's perfume on a pig, but atleast you'll know you tried.