12 bolt/9 inch questions
#1
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12 bolt/9 inch questions
Hey everybody, first off im sorry if these questions are all stupid. I dont know much about rear ends. Im in the market for one. I dont know the differences between moser and strange or if there is really any. My car is a auto with basic bolt ons and a mild cam, but I do run 10.5 et slicks with a 3500 stall and drive the **** out of my car constantly so I need a STRONG rear. Now a few questions- FIRST-Is there any 9" or 12 bolt that is 100% bolt in? Meaning it accepts stock brakes, lcas and relocation brackets, stock springs and shocks, stock driveshaft, torque arm, and all that? SECOND-I know this question will be biased but do I go 12 bolt or 9"? i assume the 9" is stronger and the 12 bolt will be cheaper to fix and cheaper on gears, rebuild kits, ect. THIRD-when pricing rear ends online and choosing axle splines, I assume more splines is stronger so if I can get 35 splines for the same price as 33 I should right? Also is a spool really completely unbearable on the street? should I go with tru-trac? Answers to any of these questions would be greatly appreciated.
Or if anybody knows anything about eliminating the torque arm and setting up my car to run bassically any rear(i.e. truck 10 bolts and 12 bolts that are extremely cheap and readily available or mustang 8.8 rears). Would this route be cheaper in the end than a 3000-4000$ bolt in rear?
Or if anybody knows anything about eliminating the torque arm and setting up my car to run bassically any rear(i.e. truck 10 bolts and 12 bolts that are extremely cheap and readily available or mustang 8.8 rears). Would this route be cheaper in the end than a 3000-4000$ bolt in rear?
#2
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iTrader: (16)
Hey everybody, first off im sorry if these questions are all stupid. I dont know much about rear ends. Im in the market for one. I dont know the differences between moser and strange or if there is really any. My car is a auto with basic bolt ons and a mild cam, but I do run 10.5 et slicks with a 3500 stall and drive the **** out of my car constantly so I need a STRONG rear. Now a few questions- FIRST-Is there any 9" or 12 bolt that is 100% bolt in? Meaning it accepts stock brakes, lcas and relocation brackets, stock springs and shocks, stock driveshaft, torque arm, and all that? SECOND-I know this question will be biased but do I go 12 bolt or 9"? i assume the 9" is stronger and the 12 bolt will be cheaper to fix and cheaper on gears, rebuild kits, ect. THIRD-when pricing rear ends online and choosing axle splines, I assume more splines is stronger so if I can get 35 splines for the same price as 33 I should right? Also is a spool really completely unbearable on the street? should I go with tru-trac? Answers to any of these questions would be greatly appreciated.
Or if anybody knows anything about eliminating the torque arm and setting up my car to run bassically any rear(i.e. truck 10 bolts and 12 bolts that are extremely cheap and readily available or mustang 8.8 rears). Would this route be cheaper in the end than a 3000-4000$ bolt in rear?
Or if anybody knows anything about eliminating the torque arm and setting up my car to run bassically any rear(i.e. truck 10 bolts and 12 bolts that are extremely cheap and readily available or mustang 8.8 rears). Would this route be cheaper in the end than a 3000-4000$ bolt in rear?
I myself do not mind a spool on the street, but my driving is mostly rural and highway. The spool is the cheapest way to go, and it is strong. More splines do indeed mean it will be stronger.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-9-I...with-Spool.htm Moser 9 inch with spool $2300.00 shipped to your door
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Spe...nformation.htm
I have a lot of info that I have compiled at the link here that may help you out.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-9-I...structions.htm
Moser installation instructions. Bob
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
#3
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
My car is a auto with basic bolt ons and a mild cam, but I do run 10.5 et slicks with a 3500 stall and drive the **** out of my car constantly so I need a STRONG rear.
FIRST-Is there any 9" or 12 bolt that is 100% bolt in?
Also with that being said one thing to look at about a true bolt in rear end is if it has all needed brackets for brake lines and e-brake brackets, and it come with all the needed hardware to bolt it in. These are the things many don't look at and one of the things we add to our rear ends to help make install as easy as possible.
Like mentioned above once you put a good rear end in the vehicle the drive shaft becomes the next victim. Drive shaft lengths will vary though between certain rear ends so keep that in mind also. It is also a wise idea to upgrade to 1350 U-joints as they are stronger and any time you can eliminate a u-joint with a grease fitting you are better off.
i assume the 9" is stronger and the 12 bolt will be cheaper to fix and cheaper on gears, rebuild kits,
THIRD-when pricing rear ends online and choosing axle splines, I assume more splines is stronger so if I can get 35 splines for the same price as 33 I should right?
The only time we have done 31SPL stuff with big HP cars is cars set up for road racing. They do not hit the tires as hard as drag vehicles and they wanted to cut out the extra weight. The weight difference isn't huge but there is a difference.
Also is a spool really completely unbearable on the street? should I go with tru-trac?
Nice thing about a spool and what you are doing mated up with our fabricated housing and light weight torque arm you will cut a ton of weight out of the vehicle. Which is always a bonus.
Also a Trutrac serves a purpose but not in a drag race application. They work well for low HP street cruisers for the people that don't want a Posi unit that will need to be rebuilt over time and do no style of racing.
Or if anybody knows anything about eliminating the torque arm
8.8 rears
Would this route be cheaper in the end than a 3000-4000$ bolt in rear?
Hope this helps some.
#4
10 Second Club
iTrader: (17)
I agree with MWC.
I broke my Moser 12 bolt 4 times in 5 years. Gears 3 times and spiders once. As well as twisting 33 spline axles. I did cut 1.47 60s on it, but it would howl like a banshee after 2-3 hard launches with the T56. My 412 made 512rwhp. If you had an auto they are good to much higher levels.
I just installed a MWC 9" to handle the new found power and to get rid of the above issues.
Go 9"!!!!
I broke my Moser 12 bolt 4 times in 5 years. Gears 3 times and spiders once. As well as twisting 33 spline axles. I did cut 1.47 60s on it, but it would howl like a banshee after 2-3 hard launches with the T56. My 412 made 512rwhp. If you had an auto they are good to much higher levels.
I just installed a MWC 9" to handle the new found power and to get rid of the above issues.
Go 9"!!!!