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12 bolt/9 inch questions

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Old 10-27-2011, 01:03 PM
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Default 12 bolt/9 inch questions

Hey everybody, first off im sorry if these questions are all stupid. I dont know much about rear ends. Im in the market for one. I dont know the differences between moser and strange or if there is really any. My car is a auto with basic bolt ons and a mild cam, but I do run 10.5 et slicks with a 3500 stall and drive the **** out of my car constantly so I need a STRONG rear. Now a few questions- FIRST-Is there any 9" or 12 bolt that is 100% bolt in? Meaning it accepts stock brakes, lcas and relocation brackets, stock springs and shocks, stock driveshaft, torque arm, and all that? SECOND-I know this question will be biased but do I go 12 bolt or 9"? i assume the 9" is stronger and the 12 bolt will be cheaper to fix and cheaper on gears, rebuild kits, ect. THIRD-when pricing rear ends online and choosing axle splines, I assume more splines is stronger so if I can get 35 splines for the same price as 33 I should right? Also is a spool really completely unbearable on the street? should I go with tru-trac? Answers to any of these questions would be greatly appreciated.

Or if anybody knows anything about eliminating the torque arm and setting up my car to run bassically any rear(i.e. truck 10 bolts and 12 bolts that are extremely cheap and readily available or mustang 8.8 rears). Would this route be cheaper in the end than a 3000-4000$ bolt in rear?
Old 10-27-2011, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by eatinJDM
Hey everybody, first off im sorry if these questions are all stupid. I dont know much about rear ends. Im in the market for one. I dont know the differences between moser and strange or if there is really any. My car is a auto with basic bolt ons and a mild cam, but I do run 10.5 et slicks with a 3500 stall and drive the **** out of my car constantly so I need a STRONG rear. Now a few questions- FIRST-Is there any 9" or 12 bolt that is 100% bolt in? Meaning it accepts stock brakes, lcas and relocation brackets, stock springs and shocks, stock driveshaft, torque arm, and all that? SECOND-I know this question will be biased but do I go 12 bolt or 9"? i assume the 9" is stronger and the 12 bolt will be cheaper to fix and cheaper on gears, rebuild kits, ect. THIRD-when pricing rear ends online and choosing axle splines, I assume more splines is stronger so if I can get 35 splines for the same price as 33 I should right? Also is a spool really completely unbearable on the street? should I go with tru-trac? Answers to any of these questions would be greatly appreciated.

Or if anybody knows anything about eliminating the torque arm and setting up my car to run bassically any rear(i.e. truck 10 bolts and 12 bolts that are extremely cheap and readily available or mustang 8.8 rears). Would this route be cheaper in the end than a 3000-4000$ bolt in rear?
Go with a 9 inch, they're stronger than the 12 bolts. The Moser 9 inch is designed for all the stock parts to bolt back up. The stock driveshaft will work, but the driveshaft length should really be one inch longer. The stock driveshaft is also a weak point that breaks for quite a few people. When the driveshafts goes it often times takes out the exhaust system with it.
I myself do not mind a spool on the street, but my driving is mostly rural and highway. The spool is the cheapest way to go, and it is strong. More splines do indeed mean it will be stronger.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-9-I...with-Spool.htm Moser 9 inch with spool $2300.00 shipped to your door

http://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Spe...nformation.htm
I have a lot of info that I have compiled at the link here that may help you out.

http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-9-I...structions.htm
Moser installation instructions. Bob
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:11 PM
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My car is a auto with basic bolt ons and a mild cam, but I do run 10.5 et slicks with a 3500 stall and drive the **** out of my car constantly so I need a STRONG rear.
Those are some great times for a street strip car.

FIRST-Is there any 9" or 12 bolt that is 100% bolt in?
There is more to look at when talking about a true bolt in rear end. Yes some times being able to bolt back a stock torque arm is a money savor but anyone out drag racing these cars will benefit from an after market adjustable torque arm.

Also with that being said one thing to look at about a true bolt in rear end is if it has all needed brackets for brake lines and e-brake brackets, and it come with all the needed hardware to bolt it in. These are the things many don't look at and one of the things we add to our rear ends to help make install as easy as possible.

Like mentioned above once you put a good rear end in the vehicle the drive shaft becomes the next victim. Drive shaft lengths will vary though between certain rear ends so keep that in mind also. It is also a wise idea to upgrade to 1350 U-joints as they are stronger and any time you can eliminate a u-joint with a grease fitting you are better off.

i assume the 9" is stronger and the 12 bolt will be cheaper to fix and cheaper on gears, rebuild kits,
In a F-body situation the 12 bolt has the similar issues a factory 10-bolt has. It does not take well to the added flex from a torque arm. Not to mention 9" stuff is readily available any were as it is a very popular rear end for many different motor sports. You can go to a swap meet and trip on something 9" at every corner.

THIRD-when pricing rear ends online and choosing axle splines, I assume more splines is stronger so if I can get 35 splines for the same price as 33 I should right?
The differential you chose will dictate the spline count of axles to some degree but yes the more splines on the axles the stronger it is supposed to be and if you can get 35SPL you might as well.

The only time we have done 31SPL stuff with big HP cars is cars set up for road racing. They do not hit the tires as hard as drag vehicles and they wanted to cut out the extra weight. The weight difference isn't huge but there is a difference.

Also is a spool really completely unbearable on the street? should I go with tru-trac?
I don't think a Spool is that bad at all to be honest. I have had DD's with spools for the past twenty years. The thing with a spool is if you are only street cruising and drag racing you purchase it it becomes the last differential you will buy.

Nice thing about a spool and what you are doing mated up with our fabricated housing and light weight torque arm you will cut a ton of weight out of the vehicle. Which is always a bonus.

Also a Trutrac serves a purpose but not in a drag race application. They work well for low HP street cruisers for the people that don't want a Posi unit that will need to be rebuilt over time and do no style of racing.

Or if anybody knows anything about eliminating the torque arm
The torque arm works very well in these vehicles. What I will recommend is you do not look into the mini 4 link set ups. We have had a few customers have us build them custom LCA's to do this to later on scrap the hole idea because it was unbearable to drive and race.

8.8 rears
The 8.8 is a great rear end and serves a very good purpose in many applications. Being a person that has had a few built 8.8 over the years I am not so sure it won't have the similar issues a 10 bolt and 12 bolt has with housing flex. The more people do it the more time will tell.

Would this route be cheaper in the end than a 3000-4000$ bolt in rear?
I can get you into our housing package that has everything you need and comes with a spool for $2700 shipped. You will have all brand new stuff to work with and all your other factory items will bolt in like your LCA's, shocks, and springs. Matter of fact when we take an order one of the questions is asking what style of shock you run because not all shocks mount the same and we predrill the hole for you to the proper size so the customer doesn't have to worry about it.

Hope this helps some.
Old 10-27-2011, 07:50 PM
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I agree with MWC.

I broke my Moser 12 bolt 4 times in 5 years. Gears 3 times and spiders once. As well as twisting 33 spline axles. I did cut 1.47 60s on it, but it would howl like a banshee after 2-3 hard launches with the T56. My 412 made 512rwhp. If you had an auto they are good to much higher levels.

I just installed a MWC 9" to handle the new found power and to get rid of the above issues.

Go 9"!!!!



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