guppymech

iTrader: (7)

I would try to measure it in the way that the wheels normally rotate. Bear in mind that on the drivers side axle this will be counter clockwise which will unscrew the test lug nut if it is not tight enough although normal lug nut torque is 100 ftlbs and the cone test torque is below this. I didn't have a problem and I also did mine in both directions and there was not a large variance. It is important to note that some torque wrenches only operate correctly in the clockwise direction. There are arrows imprinted in the handle under the scale identifier (ftlbs or newton meters) to let you know if the wrench will work in one or both directions, this is for click type wrenches with which I am familiar.

69TA

iTrader: (263)

take a look at this link there is a lot of pictures and helpful info
on working on the rear.

http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm

If a girl can do it
you can too!

Just messing with you,
she is a member on here (keliente) and is not just an ordinary girl
wonder if she is available?
we all could use a woman with them kind of skills.


http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

Haha, believe it or not I have had those links bookmarked for a while. Definitely was helpful

whytryz28

iTrader: (28)

Just installed a solid pinion spacer, its easy. Measure the crush sleeve that came out, add shims to the spacer so its slightly larger then the crush sleeve, reinstall everything, tighten til you get your bearing preload.

Ratech kit comes with instructions, so its basically idiot proof. Now setting backlash and teeth pattern are another thing.

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

Let me answer this in a direct way. NO. You can not remove the gears and spacers from one axle and just put all of it in another housing. It don't work that way. There is a lot more to this. Someone suggested you get a service manual and find out what needs to happen. That is good advice. I will suggest you get an old manual for something int he 60's as they are more informative. The 10 bolt is almost exactly like a 10 bolt in a 60's Chevy, Olds and so on. The internal parts are different but the way they are set up is the same.

I googled and found this:

http://nick_novotny.tripod.com/install.html

Read it through quickly and there are errors in it but it's generally close. It will at least give you an idea of what has to happen.

Al

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

Just found another thread here that has some good info:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...t-problem.html

Al

96lt4c4

iTrader: (5)

Listen to Al! he knows his stuff. Even though you say you are not reduilding it, you really are. Just becasue you are not changing the ring and pinoin, you are doing everything else that is done in a normal rebuild. I wish someone other then ratech made a spacer for the 10 bolt, I think its kind of cheesy. The ones that I have seen for other rears are nice billet machined peices. The Ratech is made out of a peice of pipe. What ever you do, do not put the pinoin nut on with an impact or the Ratech spacer will collapse. Ask me how I know.. Also get you an inch pound tourqe wrench the next tool I make is going to be a case spreader.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

I have acquired about five to six different links/sources of rebuilding the rear. I think I will go ahead and buy a rebuild kit to completely freshen it up and find my own backlash, pattern, preloads, etc. I did some extensive reading and does not seem as bad as I thought. I suppose a huge part is having all the right tools (which I will see if I can rent somewhere). I have access to a press and pneumatic tools so that will not be a problem. I appreciate all who have contributed in this thread

whytryz28

iTrader: (28)

Honestly, if you can do a cam swap, this will be a walk in the park.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

Like I said, mechanically inclined I am. Just never done exactly this before

96lt4c4

iTrader: (5)

If yuo are reusing your ring and pinion, if it is not making noise, check pattern and back lash before you pull it apart. Then duplicate that when you put it back together.

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

ok Yoda . remember you must that gears is part science, part art. part mechanics, and part craftsmanship. be fine you will i believe.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

Hahaha thanks man. I can finally say that these past few years of physics and calculuses are going to come in handy Whether a success or fail, update in here with pictorial evidence I will

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

I'm probably too late for my reply to matter, but in case you haven't done this yet:

I would stronly advise you to just have your LCA relo brackets cut off and re-welded to the "new to you" rearend and run it as-is. Then take your original rear and start building it up as funds and time allow. This way you will be riding quicker and cheaper....without fear of gear whine, etc. Plus you can still get the experience of working on the spare rear. Being a 7.5" ten bolt....you're gonna need it sooner or later anyway. Probably sooner.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

Funny you should mention that. That is exactly what I am doing. Buying some bolt-on LCA relo brackets and I will dig into the spare (my old) 10 bolt slowly and take my time to do it right. It never hurts to have a backup 7.5 Thanks for the reply!