Gonna take her to the track this year! Is it ready for some launches?
03-09-2012, 02:31 PM
#41
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Well when i say 90% street car i mean that 90% of the races will be on the street. I know some people don't agree with street racing, but our closest 1/4 mile is almost 2 hours away. We take it outside of town in a safe area though, we don't rip down city streets. There are basically 0 curvy roads around here, flat land with cornfield and 4-way intersections.... I spoke with Eric at MWC today, and i told him i wanted something that i could adjust the ride height out back for when Im running my 18" street wheels with 315's and then turn around and adjust them again for when i put a 28" slick on for the occasional track day. He suggested the f/r strange coil overs. Does that clear some things up?
He hasn't built the rear yet, its still about 3 weeks out until he starts on it so whatever needs to be done i have enough time to make changes. Its already paid for, just haven't paid for the shocks yet. He quoted me $620 frt DA coil overs, and $420 rear SA coil overs, shipped with springs... So $1040 total.
I have been shopping around for decent prices and found DA's to be $250/shock & SA's to be $150/shock and the springs to be about $60/spring. So with shipping included and the rear coilover mounts, that is a pretty good deal.
I realize this thread has alot of information, but I thought you might learn something from the following. This was someone elses posting, but good info ...
"Springs only need a spring rate heavy enough to hold up the vehicle. Shocks control how the weight is controlled. Any drag shock is better than a production shock but you need to experiment with different settings to see what works best. A stiff spring resists compression. Good for corner carving, autocross etc. No good for drag racing. You need the suspension to move so that the shocks can control the movement.
A good rear suspension setup should plant the tires hard on the initial hit. This means the rear body will go up as the axle goes down. A good shock setting is to allow the shock to extend easily to allow the axle to move downward then keep it there and slowly allow the body to drop back down as the shock starts to compress.
This means it needs a soft extension but a firm compression. Depending on the type of shock, you can't always adjust both settings. Many shocks such as an inexpensive 3 way or a 12 way single only allow you to adjust the compression or a combination of both with one setting. A 12 way double adjustable allows you to adjust both compression and extension separately."
03-09-2012, 02:33 PM
#42
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By the way, I forgot to mention the spanner wrench and thrust bearing kit ... you will need these too if you are going to be constantly adjusting the ride height.
03-09-2012, 03:02 PM
#43
That was exactly the reason I was looking at rear coilovers ... rear ride height adjustment between my street setup and track setup. Looking at my "budget" after my shakedown runs, I decided I would rather have the DA's over the ride height adjustment. Unlike you, my car is primarily a track car.
I have been shopping around for decent prices and found DA's to be $250/shock & SA's to be $150/shock and the springs to be about $60/spring. So with shipping included and the rear coilover mounts, that is a pretty good deal.
I realize this thread has alot of information, but I thought you might learn something from the following. This was someone elses posting, but good info ...
"Springs only need a spring rate heavy enough to hold up the vehicle. Shocks control how the weight is controlled. Any drag shock is better than a production shock but you need to experiment with different settings to see what works best. A stiff spring resists compression. Good for corner carving, autocross etc. No good for drag racing. You need the suspension to move so that the shocks can control the movement.
A good rear suspension setup should plant the tires hard on the initial hit. This means the rear body will go up as the axle goes down. A good shock setting is to allow the shock to extend easily to allow the axle to move downward then keep it there and slowly allow the body to drop back down as the shock starts to compress.
This means it needs a soft extension but a firm compression. Depending on the type of shock, you can't always adjust both settings. Many shocks such as an inexpensive 3 way or a 12 way single only allow you to adjust the compression or a combination of both with one setting. A 12 way double adjustable allows you to adjust both compression and extension separately."
I have been shopping around for decent prices and found DA's to be $250/shock & SA's to be $150/shock and the springs to be about $60/spring. So with shipping included and the rear coilover mounts, that is a pretty good deal.
I realize this thread has alot of information, but I thought you might learn something from the following. This was someone elses posting, but good info ...
"Springs only need a spring rate heavy enough to hold up the vehicle. Shocks control how the weight is controlled. Any drag shock is better than a production shock but you need to experiment with different settings to see what works best. A stiff spring resists compression. Good for corner carving, autocross etc. No good for drag racing. You need the suspension to move so that the shocks can control the movement.
A good rear suspension setup should plant the tires hard on the initial hit. This means the rear body will go up as the axle goes down. A good shock setting is to allow the shock to extend easily to allow the axle to move downward then keep it there and slowly allow the body to drop back down as the shock starts to compress.
This means it needs a soft extension but a firm compression. Depending on the type of shock, you can't always adjust both settings. Many shocks such as an inexpensive 3 way or a 12 way single only allow you to adjust the compression or a combination of both with one setting. A 12 way double adjustable allows you to adjust both compression and extension separately."
I think im still going to stick with strano sway bars....
03-09-2012, 03:10 PM
#44
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They make it alot easier to adjust the ride height of your coilovers .... they are placed between the lower spring seat and the spring and reduces the friction between the spring and the seat allowing the seat to be turned easier.
03-09-2012, 04:50 PM
#46
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Rear coilovers? I thought about these as well at one time, but I have not seen many of these setups on a 4th gen fbody. There is a sponser here that has a bottom shock mount that requires two bolts to the axle tube mount that you may want to consider if you go this route. I will probably go double adjustable, bolt-in on the rear too for about the same money as a single adjustable coilover setup.
03-09-2012, 08:57 PM
#51
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The only problem we have with strange is they sold us a brand new shock that was f*cked up and they told us to send it back to them! They sent it back to us saying there was nothing wrong! The shocks were set on full loose or open what ever you wanna call it and the car was stiff as hell wouldnt move up or down for **** even if you tried to bouce on the front end! 6spd cars are real tricky to get to 60' just make sure you got your pinion angle set and get a nice anti roll bar for your car!
03-10-2012, 04:05 AM
#52
2002camaroSS is talking about my front DA strange shocks I had. They didn't work at all on my car for singe reason. Bought DA afcos and all of sudden the car started to 60ft the way it should. I was getting out 60fted by my buddies 6spd car with all four stock shocks when I had stange shocks on my car.
03-10-2012, 06:25 AM
#54
Hmmm maybe u were just unlucky? Lol. I wonder what the difference in cost is for afco coil overs... My rear is comin with stock mounts for the sway bar....how would i attach an anti roll bar with sway mounts welded to the rear? Anti roll bars are just larger sway bars correct?
