800rwhp turbo Camaro. 9" center section options?
#1
800rwhp turbo Camaro. 9" center section options?
Broke my rear and need to replace it. I don't want anything that I am going to have to fix again but I'm confused on the (many) options out there.
Seems like a lot of the fast guys are running the M9/Fab 9/Burkhart/MidWest Chassis style 9". I've been doing some research but have some questions. My biggest question is on the center section.
If you go to almost everyones website including Brute Speed, http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-M9-...y-Complete.htm, they offer only two center sections, the nodular iron that is included with the base price and the aluminum upgrade for $155 that saves 15lbs.
But if you go to Midwest Chassis' website, http://www.midwestchassis.com/fabricated-9-pricing.html, they offer SIX different center sections!:
#1. Strange lightweight alum center, alum support, forged yoke +250.00
#2. Yukon thru-bolt alum center, pro alum support, forged yoke +350.00
#3. Yukon Extra HD Nodular Iron, 1000HP +175.00
#4. Strange Pro Nodular iron case, 850+HP +125.00
#5. Strange Hybrid Thru-bolt with exclusive pinion support +400.00
#6. Strange Ultra Case & C/M Yoke Upgrade +650.00(track only, 1200hp+, 35 or 40 spl Pro axles)
I don't remember where but I though I read somewhere that the standard iron case is only good to about 600hp. I'm confused because if I went to the Brute Speed website and ordered their ***** out M9 with the iron case, I would be under the impression that I was getting the baddest rear made. But then when I go to MWC, I'm thinking I need to go to the 1000hp #3 option to not break something.
Other Questions:
The general consensus about star-flanged axles is they're not safe for the street.
But I've been getting mixed reviews about gun-drilled axles being safe on the street or not. They're supposed to save 16lbs which would counter the weight of the heavier iron center section.
I've been getting mixed reviews about the aluminum center section as well. It's not supposed to be used on the street because it wears the gear faster due to deflection but talking to builders, that's all they run in their street cars?
The most mixed review is a spool in a street driven street car. I'm screwed here because my car is 99% street car. I drive it to work and back everyday that the sun is shining with the air conditioning on. I don't find myself in the city in parking garages with tight turns but I do normal turning at intersections and the MT drag radials I run aren't cheap and are soft. Will these be ruined on the inside due to the spool? I would get a waveTrac but I'm being told it could break still and they are $800.
Seems like a lot of the fast guys are running the M9/Fab 9/Burkhart/MidWest Chassis style 9". I've been doing some research but have some questions. My biggest question is on the center section.
If you go to almost everyones website including Brute Speed, http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-M9-...y-Complete.htm, they offer only two center sections, the nodular iron that is included with the base price and the aluminum upgrade for $155 that saves 15lbs.
But if you go to Midwest Chassis' website, http://www.midwestchassis.com/fabricated-9-pricing.html, they offer SIX different center sections!:
#1. Strange lightweight alum center, alum support, forged yoke +250.00
#2. Yukon thru-bolt alum center, pro alum support, forged yoke +350.00
#3. Yukon Extra HD Nodular Iron, 1000HP +175.00
#4. Strange Pro Nodular iron case, 850+HP +125.00
#5. Strange Hybrid Thru-bolt with exclusive pinion support +400.00
#6. Strange Ultra Case & C/M Yoke Upgrade +650.00(track only, 1200hp+, 35 or 40 spl Pro axles)
I don't remember where but I though I read somewhere that the standard iron case is only good to about 600hp. I'm confused because if I went to the Brute Speed website and ordered their ***** out M9 with the iron case, I would be under the impression that I was getting the baddest rear made. But then when I go to MWC, I'm thinking I need to go to the 1000hp #3 option to not break something.
Other Questions:
The general consensus about star-flanged axles is they're not safe for the street.
But I've been getting mixed reviews about gun-drilled axles being safe on the street or not. They're supposed to save 16lbs which would counter the weight of the heavier iron center section.
I've been getting mixed reviews about the aluminum center section as well. It's not supposed to be used on the street because it wears the gear faster due to deflection but talking to builders, that's all they run in their street cars?
The most mixed review is a spool in a street driven street car. I'm screwed here because my car is 99% street car. I drive it to work and back everyday that the sun is shining with the air conditioning on. I don't find myself in the city in parking garages with tight turns but I do normal turning at intersections and the MT drag radials I run aren't cheap and are soft. Will these be ruined on the inside due to the spool? I would get a waveTrac but I'm being told it could break still and they are $800.
#2
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I don't know what the Strange nodular iron case can handle but the Moser nodular iron case can handle well over two thousand horsepower. The Moser aluminum center can handle two thousand horsepower, it is a very stout case. Not worries about it on the street.
I wouldn't run the star flanged or/and gun drilled axles on the street for a daily driver.
The 2nd gen Wavetrac is a stout differential that should be able to handle 1000 hp, it comes guaranteed and I have not heard of anyone breaking one yet. Back at the old shop we broke one of the first Wavetrac's and Wavetrac went and beefed it up in the area where it broke. It took a while to exhaust the 1st gen supply but that has been some time ago and if you ordered one you would be getting the 2nd gen. For a daily driver on drag radials I'd go with the Wavetrac over a spool.
Hopefully this helps. Bob
I wouldn't run the star flanged or/and gun drilled axles on the street for a daily driver.
The 2nd gen Wavetrac is a stout differential that should be able to handle 1000 hp, it comes guaranteed and I have not heard of anyone breaking one yet. Back at the old shop we broke one of the first Wavetrac's and Wavetrac went and beefed it up in the area where it broke. It took a while to exhaust the 1st gen supply but that has been some time ago and if you ordered one you would be getting the 2nd gen. For a daily driver on drag radials I'd go with the Wavetrac over a spool.
Hopefully this helps. Bob
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
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E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
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this guy is doing his home work!
that aluminum yukon thru bolt case is a monster,i cant see breaking it.
we will see what happens next with the 7200rpm clutch dump at the track.....
here is a pick of the center i blew @ 4200rpm clutch dump......notice the split in it where the bearing goes.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...arnage-033.jpg
good luck!
that aluminum yukon thru bolt case is a monster,i cant see breaking it.
we will see what happens next with the 7200rpm clutch dump at the track.....
here is a pick of the center i blew @ 4200rpm clutch dump......notice the split in it where the bearing goes.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...arnage-033.jpg
good luck!
#6
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Give me a call... I have the answers you need and will not sell you parts you don't need. After you do your research you will find the MWC fabricated 9 inch is the best value and quality.
The Yukon case is a descent piece for the cost, but for a few more bucks the new Strange Hybrid case is by far the best engineered aluminum center section on the market for a high powered street/strip car. Believe me... I have had my hands on every one of the cases on the market and this is the latest technology... by far the best quality of any of them out there.
If you don't want to go with the spool, then the S-Trac or Wavetrac diff unit is definitely the diff unit you will want. Can't beat the value and the limited lifetime warranty is a no-brainer.
Unless you're running a track-only car in a heads-up class then the lightened axles are worthless. You will see much better gains from lighter wheels or even a set of Strange brakes will be money better spent.
The Yukon case is a descent piece for the cost, but for a few more bucks the new Strange Hybrid case is by far the best engineered aluminum center section on the market for a high powered street/strip car. Believe me... I have had my hands on every one of the cases on the market and this is the latest technology... by far the best quality of any of them out there.
If you don't want to go with the spool, then the S-Trac or Wavetrac diff unit is definitely the diff unit you will want. Can't beat the value and the limited lifetime warranty is a no-brainer.
Unless you're running a track-only car in a heads-up class then the lightened axles are worthless. You will see much better gains from lighter wheels or even a set of Strange brakes will be money better spent.
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#10
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I have some good pics that I took of the new Strange Hybdrid setup I just did for Koolrayz new x275 setup as he is upgrading the new car to all MWC parts. I will share them here when I can get them all uploaded.
http://www.strangeengineering.net/ne...Alum-Case.html
http://www.strangeengineering.net/ne...Alum-Case.html
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something to ponder......
i drove to my nephews ski23 last night,and then we went for a drive in his car.both m6 cars if that matters.
we both have MWCFAB9 with spools with 35 spline.......
mine is narrowed,his is not.
mine has 4.56 gears,his has 4.10.both sets of gears are quite while driving.
i am on a 28" MT ET STREET,he is on 26" NITTO DR.
my car is almost silent in the rear end when turning,even very tight & u-turns.
his car chatters like a bitch on any turn,tight or just on regular lefts or right turns.
sounds & feels like you our driving a catepiler tractor with tracks on it.........
could it be the harder tire compound in the nittos??????????
i drove to my nephews ski23 last night,and then we went for a drive in his car.both m6 cars if that matters.
we both have MWCFAB9 with spools with 35 spline.......
mine is narrowed,his is not.
mine has 4.56 gears,his has 4.10.both sets of gears are quite while driving.
i am on a 28" MT ET STREET,he is on 26" NITTO DR.
my car is almost silent in the rear end when turning,even very tight & u-turns.
his car chatters like a bitch on any turn,tight or just on regular lefts or right turns.
sounds & feels like you our driving a catepiler tractor with tracks on it.........
could it be the harder tire compound in the nittos??????????
Last edited by heymoej; 04-02-2012 at 11:42 AM.