8.8 how to... now with pics!!!
04-19-2012, 10:41 PM
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8.8 how to... now with pics!!! I done the math on this and hope to get it finished up or at least most the way done this weekend.
Where do i start?
Find a 8.8 rearend. Mine came from a ranger that had 3:73 gears and a truetrac(ford posi)
Got a 8.8 now what?
Take it apart leaving the pinion in. First remove the ten bolts holding the cover in place and drain the fluid. Then locate the 8mm retaining bolt for the center pin. Remove pin. Shove axles all the way in and remove the c clips, slide the axles out and discard. To make mine lighter to maneuver I took a torch and cut the ends off with the brake drums.
Done, now what am I supposed to do with my mangled hunk of a rearend.
Either remove your 10 bolt or buy another one.
Ok? It's out...
Remove the cover drain the oil locate 8mm retaining bolt and slide out the pin, remove axles and save them.
Slide a tape measure all the way through and measure tip to tip. 61 7/8 is what I came up with.
Keep the tape in. Look through the hole for the center pin and find the center of the hole. What's your measurement? I came up with roughly 30 15/16
My head hurts! Should I give up and buy a prefab?
No! Take a level and get your rearend level from front to back by using the cover plate opening. Use an angle finder to measure your rearend geometry.
Spring perches are 6* angled to the rear. And the brake plates are ~19-20* angled toward the back. On the ten bolt its 25" between the brake line clips and 16 3/8 distance across the 8.8 center section which gives me 4.315 on each side to play with, but since we want to weld them on let's do 3.315 overlap with the tubes.
Time for a beer?
No! Quit being a baby your almost done with highschool math. Cut the axle tubes right at the pumpkin. (on the 10 bolt)
Take a chopsaw and cut the 8.8 axle tubes 4 inches from the centersection. Deburr. And test the 10 bolt axle tubes. If they are too large you will need a sleeve made. Or if too large put on a lathe to where they fit but are snug.insert tape measure down the tube to the center of the center pin measuring to 30 15/16.
Level the rearend housing with the earth. Then rotate the tubes to 6* on the spring perches and make one tiny tack weld to hold it and same for the other side. Test fit the axles and make sure it works. If it does then weld fully doing 1/2 beads on opposing sides so as not to warp the tubes.
Reinstall cover and rearend.
I'm sure I will run into more things to add but this is how I done/in the middle of doing my 8.8 bastard rearend and really hope it helps other people.
Where do i start?
Find a 8.8 rearend. Mine came from a ranger that had 3:73 gears and a truetrac(ford posi)
Got a 8.8 now what?
Take it apart leaving the pinion in. First remove the ten bolts holding the cover in place and drain the fluid. Then locate the 8mm retaining bolt for the center pin. Remove pin. Shove axles all the way in and remove the c clips, slide the axles out and discard. To make mine lighter to maneuver I took a torch and cut the ends off with the brake drums.
Done, now what am I supposed to do with my mangled hunk of a rearend.
Either remove your 10 bolt or buy another one.
Ok? It's out...
Remove the cover drain the oil locate 8mm retaining bolt and slide out the pin, remove axles and save them.
Slide a tape measure all the way through and measure tip to tip. 61 7/8 is what I came up with.
Keep the tape in. Look through the hole for the center pin and find the center of the hole. What's your measurement? I came up with roughly 30 15/16
My head hurts! Should I give up and buy a prefab?
No! Take a level and get your rearend level from front to back by using the cover plate opening. Use an angle finder to measure your rearend geometry.
Spring perches are 6* angled to the rear. And the brake plates are ~19-20* angled toward the back. On the ten bolt its 25" between the brake line clips and 16 3/8 distance across the 8.8 center section which gives me 4.315 on each side to play with, but since we want to weld them on let's do 3.315 overlap with the tubes.
Time for a beer?
No! Quit being a baby your almost done with highschool math. Cut the axle tubes right at the pumpkin. (on the 10 bolt)
Take a chopsaw and cut the 8.8 axle tubes 4 inches from the centersection. Deburr. And test the 10 bolt axle tubes. If they are too large you will need a sleeve made. Or if too large put on a lathe to where they fit but are snug.insert tape measure down the tube to the center of the center pin measuring to 30 15/16.
Level the rearend housing with the earth. Then rotate the tubes to 6* on the spring perches and make one tiny tack weld to hold it and same for the other side. Test fit the axles and make sure it works. If it does then weld fully doing 1/2 beads on opposing sides so as not to warp the tubes.
Reinstall cover and rearend.
I'm sure I will run into more things to add but this is how I done/in the middle of doing my 8.8 bastard rearend and really hope it helps other people.
Last edited by 97badass; 05-07-2012 at 07:34 PM.
04-20-2012, 07:21 AM
#2
I done the math on this and hope to get it finished up or at least most the way done this weekend....
Where do i start?
Find a 8.8 rearend. Mine came from a ranger that had 3:73 gears and a truetrac(ford posi)
Got a 8.8 now what?
Take it apart leaving the pinion in. First remove the ten bolts holding the cover in place and drain the fluid. Then locate the 8mm retaining bolt for the center pin. Remove pin. Shove axles all the way in and remove the c clips, slide the axles out and discard. To make mine lighter to maneuver I took a torch and cut the ends off with the brake drums.
Done. Now what am I supposed to do with my mangled hunk of a rearend?
Either remove your 10 bolt or buy another one.
Ok? 10 bolts is out...
Remove the cover drain the oil locate 8mm retaining bolt and slide out the pin, remove axles and save them.
Slide a tape measure all the way through and measure tip to tip. 61 7/8 is what I came up with.
Keep the tape in. Look through the hole for the center pin and find the center of the hole. What's your measurement? I came up with roughly 30 15/16....
My head hurts! Should I give up and buy a prefab?
No! Take a level and get your rearend level from front to back by using the cover plate opening. Use an angle finder to measure your rearend geometry.
Spring perches are 6* angled to the rear. And the brake plates are ~19-20* angled toward the back. On the ten bolt its 25" between the brake line clips and 16 3/8 distance across the 8.8 center section which gives me 4.315 on each side to play with, but since we want to weld them on let's do 3.315 overlap with the tubes.
Time for a beer?
No! Quit being a baby your almost done with highschool math. Cut the axle tubes right at the pumpkin. (on the 10 bolt)
Take a chopsaw and cut the 8.8 axle tubes 4 inches from the centersection. Deburr. And test the 10 bolt axle tubes. If they are too large you will need a sleeve made. Or if too large put on a lathe to where they fit but are snug.insert tape measure down the tube to the center of the center pin measuring to 30 15/16.
Level the rearend housing with the earth. Then rotate the tubes to 6* on the spring perches and make one tiny tack weld to hold it and same for the other side. Test fit the axles and make sure it works. If it does then weld fully doing 1/2 beads on opposing sides so as not to warp the tubes.
Reinstall cover and rearend.
I'm sure I will run into more things to add but this is how I done/in the middle of doing my 8.8 bastard rearend and really hope it helps other people.
Where do i start?
Find a 8.8 rearend. Mine came from a ranger that had 3:73 gears and a truetrac(ford posi)
Got a 8.8 now what?
Take it apart leaving the pinion in. First remove the ten bolts holding the cover in place and drain the fluid. Then locate the 8mm retaining bolt for the center pin. Remove pin. Shove axles all the way in and remove the c clips, slide the axles out and discard. To make mine lighter to maneuver I took a torch and cut the ends off with the brake drums.
Done. Now what am I supposed to do with my mangled hunk of a rearend?
Either remove your 10 bolt or buy another one.
Ok? 10 bolts is out...
Remove the cover drain the oil locate 8mm retaining bolt and slide out the pin, remove axles and save them.
Slide a tape measure all the way through and measure tip to tip. 61 7/8 is what I came up with.
Keep the tape in. Look through the hole for the center pin and find the center of the hole. What's your measurement? I came up with roughly 30 15/16....
My head hurts! Should I give up and buy a prefab?
No! Take a level and get your rearend level from front to back by using the cover plate opening. Use an angle finder to measure your rearend geometry.
Spring perches are 6* angled to the rear. And the brake plates are ~19-20* angled toward the back. On the ten bolt its 25" between the brake line clips and 16 3/8 distance across the 8.8 center section which gives me 4.315 on each side to play with, but since we want to weld them on let's do 3.315 overlap with the tubes.
Time for a beer?
No! Quit being a baby your almost done with highschool math. Cut the axle tubes right at the pumpkin. (on the 10 bolt)
Take a chopsaw and cut the 8.8 axle tubes 4 inches from the centersection. Deburr. And test the 10 bolt axle tubes. If they are too large you will need a sleeve made. Or if too large put on a lathe to where they fit but are snug.insert tape measure down the tube to the center of the center pin measuring to 30 15/16.
Level the rearend housing with the earth. Then rotate the tubes to 6* on the spring perches and make one tiny tack weld to hold it and same for the other side. Test fit the axles and make sure it works. If it does then weld fully doing 1/2 beads on opposing sides so as not to warp the tubes.
Reinstall cover and rearend.
I'm sure I will run into more things to add but this is how I done/in the middle of doing my 8.8 bastard rearend and really hope it helps other people.
Hope you don't mind the way I spaced and bolded your original post......
04-20-2012, 07:30 AM
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Dont mind at all, its hard to do it in proper format, falling asleep and on a phone lol. I will get pics taken Saturday. From what I can tell my ten bolt tubes will slide right in. I can verify with the calipers tonight but I have a bowling thing for big brothers big sisters tonight. So Saturday is the day for the fun.
04-20-2012, 09:44 AM
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Excellent work man! I am searching for a 8.8 rear myself now, and this thread is something i needed. Is there any particular year ranger rearend to look for? And thanks for posting so much detail keep it up!
04-20-2012, 12:12 PM
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I'm not even sure what year mine came from, my buddy gave it to me for free. I just did a rough check on the axle tubes and I think I am going to be forced to have my ten bolt tubes put on a lathe. I need to Deburr the 8.8 to get a proper measurement.
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04-21-2012, 06:45 AM
#10
Wow. That's pretty neat, actually. Thanks for posting that.
Any pro's or con's with a ladder bar set-up vs a torque arm? Doesn't exactly look street friendly.... Maybe I'm wrong. Just looks like it doesn't give the rear much up and down travel.
Any pro's or con's with a ladder bar set-up vs a torque arm? Doesn't exactly look street friendly.... Maybe I'm wrong. Just looks like it doesn't give the rear much up and down travel.
04-21-2012, 10:38 AM
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I would need a chassis mount torque arm for this plus its more of a hassle. If I don't like it then I can always take it off. Updates soon I've been checking clearances on the axle tubes to see how close I am and it about .020 difference.
04-22-2012, 10:00 PM
#20
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Pm hiltsy855 about a torque arm mount. You will not be disappointed. It's the best one I've seen, and it's vey simple too. It would be a great addition to a great write up on this very popular subject.