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10 bolt with LPW Girdle & Axle Tube Brace

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Old 05-15-2012, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Macs98Z
Gotcha. Yeah, I have been wondering about this idea as well, especially after my M6 swap. I just really don't want to shell out 2K+ for a new or used 9 inch or S60.

We appreciate the initiative fccs. Go beat on it with some drag radials and let us know how it holds up!
First thing that needs to be done is eliminating the problem that caused the diff to break the first time, that sounds like getting the LCA brackets in there so the thing doesnt wheelhop. If the OP still has the torque arm mounted to the tailshaft housing I would do something about that too.
Street driving isnt really testing this setup. Needs to be taken to a good track & get some sticky launches. I wouldnt be doing any 5k clutch dumps though.
Old 05-15-2012, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by flintwrench69
First thing that needs to be done is eliminating the problem that caused the diff to break the first time, that sounds like getting the LCA brackets in there so the thing doesnt wheelhop. If the OP still has the torque arm mounted to the tailshaft housing I would do something about that too.
Street driving isnt really testing this setup. Needs to be taken to a good track & get some sticky launches. I wouldnt be doing any 5k clutch dumps though.
I don't dump my clutch at the track ever. Period. I slip it, and yea I'm putting the lca's and relocation brackets on sometime this week anyways.
Old 05-16-2012, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Marc 85Z28
I have just the LPW cover on the Trans Am, which has seen probably a dozen high 1.4 to low 1.5 60' Stock diff, Motive 3.73, and a solid pinion spacer.

I have the LPW cover and tube brace kit on my Z28, installed in 2002. Stock 3.42 rear from a 2002 TA with welded tubes. Followed the old "ultimate 10 bolt" build. Possibly hundreds of 1.6x 60' and over a decade of street abuse.

Both cars use drag radials.

IMO there is no better cover for these rears. The popular other brands don't support the rear properly.

Why did you have to cut the tubes? They make (or at least used to make) several versions of the kit, including one specifically for the 82+ F-bodies.
Where did you get your solid pinion spacer
Old 05-16-2012, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike08ss/tc
Where did you get your solid pinion spacer
Ws6store has it. You shouldn't need one unless your making some big power though, like constant 600rwhp or so.
Old 05-16-2012, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by fccs
You shouldn't need one unless your making some big power though, like constant 600rwhp or so.
Are you sure? I've heard the solid pinion spacer is something you want to do on a 10 bolt if you are rebuilding it, no matter what the power level. The constant abuse, especially with a manual, can cause the crush sleeve to deform further, creating slop in the drivetrain because of the improper tolerances and eventual failure of the ring and pinion.

This is just what I've read and, having looked at the way my own 10 bolt is set up, it makes sense. Just curious to know if you've seen evidence otherwise in your findings.
Old 05-16-2012, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Macs98Z
Are you sure? I've heard the solid pinion spacer is something you want to do on a 10 bolt if you are rebuilding it, no matter what the power level. The constant abuse, especially with a manual, can cause the crush sleeve to deform further, creating slop in the drivetrain because of the improper tolerances and eventual failure of the ring and pinion.

This is just what I've read and, having looked at the way my own 10 bolt is set up, it makes sense. Just curious to know if you've seen evidence otherwise in your findings.
Well not for fbodies specifically, but I've heard that the crush sleeve is alright from gm if your making normal power, <500 or so constant I mean. Everyone I know who has a solid one is running 9s or lower, granted they have different rear ends and are pretty much drag cars but they are the only people I know in person running them. I say do it if you have it apart, but don't go out of your way to do it. They are annoying to setup as well.
Old 05-16-2012, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike08ss/tc
Where did you get your solid pinion spacer
I bought mine from a local source. However you can order one from Texas Speed
Old 05-17-2012, 08:46 AM
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Your weak link is still the Torsen diff. Ive been though 2 myself with a similiar setup and on the street as well. I've never broke a ring or pinion and those mods i believe helped that part. I hope you have more success than me. I'm giving in and building an 8.8 because I think I can do it and do it right for 6 or 7 hundred bucks.
Old 05-17-2012, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnWaynesZ28
Your weak link is still the Torsen diff.
Gear, bearing, and differential failure are all directly related to housing flex.
Old 05-17-2012, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Marc 85Z28
Gear, bearing, and differential failure are all directly related to housing flex.
This. Everyone knows what the failures are but forgets WHY they fail. Spider gears are small and shitty, yes, but they fail because of housing flex to begin with.. because they are so small and shitty they can't take much at all. If your rear stays put and the less flex you have, the better chance you have of your rear surviving. Twisting axles are a different story I would imagine when making alot of power and sticky tires though.
Old 05-20-2012, 09:26 PM
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Tons of passes(100 or more) on my 10 bolt with 1.6-high 1.5s cam only for two years. Girdle,solid spacer and welded tubes only.

Hope it can take heads this year.....
Old 05-20-2012, 10:12 PM
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Did you get the standard, Minimum or Extra depth brace kit?
Old 05-21-2012, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1wallen
Did you get the standard, Minimum or Extra depth brace kit?
Min. It's the one for our fbodies.
Old 05-22-2012, 03:11 PM
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Smile

i just ordered one of these covers. added insurance since i just invested a ton into my 10 bolt.
Old 05-29-2012, 07:41 PM
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Still doing 2nd and 3rd gear burnouts fine lol
Old 06-04-2012, 03:04 PM
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Bump. I went ahead and bought the setup for my thirdgen. I figured I'd try this. If it works, then I just saved about $1500. If it doesn't.. well, I lose $50 in selling the parts and I'll just cut the rear end up and use the axle tubes on the 8.8 I have sitting in the garage. I'll post pictures when I can. I went ahead and got the standard finish with intentions of getting it powdercoated to the color of my choice sometime at the end of this week.
Old 06-04-2012, 05:04 PM
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Nice, post pics when on
Old 06-07-2012, 03:09 PM
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"Tons of passes(100 or more) on my 10 bolt with 1.6-high 1.5s cam only for two years. Girdle,solid spacer and welded tubes only."

what do you mean by 'welding tubes'?
Old 06-07-2012, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cknoma2005
"Tons of passes(100 or more) on my 10 bolt with 1.6-high 1.5s cam only for two years. Girdle,solid spacer and welded tubes only."

what do you mean by 'welding tubes'?
welding the axle tubes to the housing, since they're just pressed on
Old 06-07-2012, 03:32 PM
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Nice, this should be a easy way to get some more life out of the ol' 10-bolt, especially for auto cars. For a 6-speed I'd still recommend goin with a 9" though cause of the shock to the rear being so much greater than a auto car.


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