10 bolt with LPW Girdle & Axle Tube Brace
05-15-2012 | 10:52 PM
#41
Street driving isnt really testing this setup. Needs to be taken to a good track & get some sticky launches. I wouldnt be doing any 5k clutch dumps though.
05-16-2012 | 12:43 AM
#42
First thing that needs to be done is eliminating the problem that caused the diff to break the first time, that sounds like getting the LCA brackets in there so the thing doesnt wheelhop. If the OP still has the torque arm mounted to the tailshaft housing I would do something about that too.
Street driving isnt really testing this setup. Needs to be taken to a good track & get some sticky launches. I wouldnt be doing any 5k clutch dumps though.
Street driving isnt really testing this setup. Needs to be taken to a good track & get some sticky launches. I wouldnt be doing any 5k clutch dumps though.
05-16-2012 | 01:58 PM
#43
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 40
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I have just the LPW cover on the Trans Am, which has seen probably a dozen high 1.4 to low 1.5 60' Stock diff, Motive 3.73, and a solid pinion spacer.
I have the LPW cover and tube brace kit on my Z28, installed in 2002. Stock 3.42 rear from a 2002 TA with welded tubes. Followed the old "ultimate 10 bolt" build. Possibly hundreds of 1.6x 60' and over a decade of street abuse.
Both cars use drag radials.
IMO there is no better cover for these rears. The popular other brands don't support the rear properly.
Why did you have to cut the tubes? They make (or at least used to make) several versions of the kit, including one specifically for the 82+ F-bodies.
I have the LPW cover and tube brace kit on my Z28, installed in 2002. Stock 3.42 rear from a 2002 TA with welded tubes. Followed the old "ultimate 10 bolt" build. Possibly hundreds of 1.6x 60' and over a decade of street abuse.
Both cars use drag radials.
IMO there is no better cover for these rears. The popular other brands don't support the rear properly.
Why did you have to cut the tubes? They make (or at least used to make) several versions of the kit, including one specifically for the 82+ F-bodies.
05-16-2012 | 02:49 PM
#44
05-16-2012 | 03:39 PM
#45
This is just what I've read and, having looked at the way my own 10 bolt is set up, it makes sense. Just curious to know if you've seen evidence otherwise in your findings.
05-16-2012 | 04:31 PM
#46
Are you sure? I've heard the solid pinion spacer is something you want to do on a 10 bolt if you are rebuilding it, no matter what the power level. The constant abuse, especially with a manual, can cause the crush sleeve to deform further, creating slop in the drivetrain because of the improper tolerances and eventual failure of the ring and pinion.
This is just what I've read and, having looked at the way my own 10 bolt is set up, it makes sense. Just curious to know if you've seen evidence otherwise in your findings.
This is just what I've read and, having looked at the way my own 10 bolt is set up, it makes sense. Just curious to know if you've seen evidence otherwise in your findings.
05-16-2012 | 10:08 PM
#47
05-17-2012 | 09:46 AM
#48
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 36
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From: Murfreesboro, TN
Your weak link is still the Torsen diff. Ive been though 2 myself with a similiar setup and on the street as well. I've never broke a ring or pinion and those mods i believe helped that part. I hope you have more success than me. I'm giving in and building an 8.8 because I think I can do it and do it right for 6 or 7 hundred bucks.
05-17-2012 | 02:01 PM
#50
This. Everyone knows what the failures are but forgets WHY they fail. Spider gears are small and shitty, yes, but they fail because of housing flex to begin with.. because they are so small and shitty they can't take much at all. If your rear stays put and the less flex you have, the better chance you have of your rear surviving. Twisting axles are a different story I would imagine when making alot of power and sticky tires though.
06-04-2012 | 04:04 PM
#56
Bump. I went ahead and bought the setup for my thirdgen. I figured I'd try this. If it works, then I just saved about $1500. If it doesn't.. well, I lose $50 in selling the parts and I'll just cut the rear end up and use the axle tubes on the 8.8 I have sitting in the garage. I'll post pictures when I can. I went ahead and got the standard finish with intentions of getting it powdercoated to the color of my choice sometime at the end of this week.
06-07-2012 | 04:20 PM
#59
06-07-2012 | 04:32 PM
#60
Nice, this should be a easy way to get some more life out of the ol' 10-bolt, especially for auto cars. For a 6-speed I'd still recommend goin with a 9" though cause of the shock to the rear being so much greater than a auto car.