Moser Rearend -leak near e-brake
01-21-2013, 09:05 AM
#21
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yeh, the out of tolerance situation got fixed after having to go through hell with them. had to machine my own an acceptable tolerance plate and try and put it on and record a video of it and send it to them as they didn't believe that it happened.
01-21-2013, 02:08 PM
#23
That's a pretty nice idea. I have never seen that before, I will have to look into it some more but I won't be tearing my rear end apart to add them since I am not currently leaking. Nice seal points, easy installation, looks like a quality product. I can add these when I do bearings in a year. Usually every 1-2 years bearings get replaced since these are ball type. 4-8k mile usually since they really aren't for turning. I will file this away. Thanks for posting this 
01-21-2013, 07:19 PM
#24
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no problem. cheers.
Spraker Racing, that is local to me, which is where I purchased my rear end from is doing this on 95% of all rears that they deal with. This way no leaks at all.
I'm going to be ordering the replacement axle seals, a water pump, and an alternator and have this all done between my shop I go to and Spraker. Luckily they are within two miles of each other
and within a half mile of the Mooresville dragstrip
Spraker Racing, that is local to me, which is where I purchased my rear end from is doing this on 95% of all rears that they deal with. This way no leaks at all.
I'm going to be ordering the replacement axle seals, a water pump, and an alternator and have this all done between my shop I go to and Spraker. Luckily they are within two miles of each other
and within a half mile of the Mooresville dragstrip
01-27-2013, 09:43 AM
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My rear end is full of surprises, I keep finding these.
also when I pulled my axle out it gushed rear fluid out, maybe 2 oz worth. I looked at the driver side, haven't pulled it yet but it doesn't appear to be leaking. Why the hell is only one side leaking? Hmmm, is something else wrong with my passenger side of the rear end??
The outer seal rubber lip is perfectly ok.
also when I pulled my axle out it gushed rear fluid out, maybe 2 oz worth. I looked at the driver side, haven't pulled it yet but it doesn't appear to be leaking. Why the hell is only one side leaking? Hmmm, is something else wrong with my passenger side of the rear end??
The outer seal rubber lip is perfectly ok.
01-27-2013, 12:23 PM
#26
Check to see if the vent is plugged, may be building pressure. Is the car level? You need to pull the axles and back cover and shine lights and see what crap someone left behind. Then make sure the car is at level ride height before you refill the rear.
01-27-2013, 09:38 PM
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I think I know why my passenger side is leaking and not my drivers side.....
looking at it for 20 minutes today, I know that the bearing is the old bearing from the screwed up hub... and I looked around the inner race of the bearing, and that is the source of my oil.
Gotta replace the bearing (already got em') and I found more of the crap in the axle tube.
this should be fixed and done and over with in the next two weeks.
looking at it for 20 minutes today, I know that the bearing is the old bearing from the screwed up hub... and I looked around the inner race of the bearing, and that is the source of my oil.
Gotta replace the bearing (already got em') and I found more of the crap in the axle tube.
this should be fixed and done and over with in the next two weeks.
01-27-2013, 11:32 PM
#28
If you cut that old bearing up, I would be interested to see if it did what mine did in the pics that I posted. Hope you het it 100%. At first glance the crap you pulled out of there looked like a rubber glove, but now it looks more like paper. I don't understand how anyone cal leave that in there.
02-26-2013, 12:17 PM
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I finally got some further insightful information.
I wanted to add further explanation to those that buy rear ends, as the instructions given via phone or via manual in the shipping box, I want to elaborate a little on the 12 bolt rear ends.
With C-clip retained rear ends (12-bolt w/ C clip), the end bearing needs lubrication from the oil in the rear end (I believe from what I was told) and with a pumpkin filled to the point of fluid coming out of the FRONT allen key hole this is satisfactory. This is how the factory rear is.
HOWEVER, with NON-C-CLIP rear ends, and WITH SEALED bearings which I believe many have, you actually DO NOT WANT TO FILL THE REAR END UP to where it is coming out of the FRONT 9/16ths allen key (or whatever size it is at the front of the pumpkin).
you want it about 1/2 and inch to an 1 inch BELOW the hole.
If you still experience leaks, then you can also order seals from a company called Seals-it, here are a few pictures of their seals. they are installed where the axle tube meets the pumpkin and seal completely around the axle itself. Only thing with installing this type of seal, is that you have to completely take off the back cover, take out axles, take out the center section of the rear end.
I feel that the answer to the oil coming out of the axle tubes is due to people over filling them, as per MOSER instructions it simply states fill the pumpkin until it comes out of the front fill hole.
HOWEVER, this is not necessary, as with it that FULL, fluid is basically just at the axle tube area and likely creeping down the axle tube without you even moving the car. Sealed bearings do not need lubrication, in the C-clipped rears they use bearings that are NOT sealed and require this lubrication.
So with installing these inner seals from Seals-It, and not filling the rear up all the way that will for certain stop the leaking. I however feel from my experience with all my BS with MOSER that simply leaving it 1/2" or 1" below that front hole will be significant enough to not leak anymore. However, being I don't want to deal with this crap anymore I'm taking all the steps I can to ensure no more leaks.
I wanted to add further explanation to those that buy rear ends, as the instructions given via phone or via manual in the shipping box, I want to elaborate a little on the 12 bolt rear ends.
With C-clip retained rear ends (12-bolt w/ C clip), the end bearing needs lubrication from the oil in the rear end (I believe from what I was told) and with a pumpkin filled to the point of fluid coming out of the FRONT allen key hole this is satisfactory. This is how the factory rear is.
HOWEVER, with NON-C-CLIP rear ends, and WITH SEALED bearings which I believe many have, you actually DO NOT WANT TO FILL THE REAR END UP to where it is coming out of the FRONT 9/16ths allen key (or whatever size it is at the front of the pumpkin).
you want it about 1/2 and inch to an 1 inch BELOW the hole.
If you still experience leaks, then you can also order seals from a company called Seals-it, here are a few pictures of their seals. they are installed where the axle tube meets the pumpkin and seal completely around the axle itself. Only thing with installing this type of seal, is that you have to completely take off the back cover, take out axles, take out the center section of the rear end.
I feel that the answer to the oil coming out of the axle tubes is due to people over filling them, as per MOSER instructions it simply states fill the pumpkin until it comes out of the front fill hole.
HOWEVER, this is not necessary, as with it that FULL, fluid is basically just at the axle tube area and likely creeping down the axle tube without you even moving the car. Sealed bearings do not need lubrication, in the C-clipped rears they use bearings that are NOT sealed and require this lubrication.
So with installing these inner seals from Seals-It, and not filling the rear up all the way that will for certain stop the leaking. I however feel from my experience with all my BS with MOSER that simply leaving it 1/2" or 1" below that front hole will be significant enough to not leak anymore. However, being I don't want to deal with this crap anymore I'm taking all the steps I can to ensure no more leaks.
02-26-2013, 12:27 PM
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ALSO PAY VERY close attention to what CENTER SECTION you are using.
Detroit True Trac (made by Eaton), NO SYNTHETICS, NO ADDITIVES - Straight conventional 80w-90 or next similar.
If you don't know, or don't believe whatever manufacturer you are purchasing the rear from, or better yet; YOU shouldn't trust what they tell you, and YOU should find out for yourself BY CALLING EATON.
Detroit True Trac (made by Eaton), NO SYNTHETICS, NO ADDITIVES - Straight conventional 80w-90 or next similar.
If you don't know, or don't believe whatever manufacturer you are purchasing the rear from, or better yet; YOU shouldn't trust what they tell you, and YOU should find out for yourself BY CALLING EATON.
12-28-2014, 03:51 AM
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Also having trouble w/ leaky Moser 12 bolt I finally got some further insightful information.
I wanted to add further explanation to those that buy rear ends, as the instructions given via phone or via manual in the shipping box, I want to elaborate a little on the 12 bolt rear ends.
With C-clip retained rear ends (12-bolt w/ C clip), the end bearing needs lubrication from the oil in the rear end (I believe from what I was told) and with a pumpkin filled to the point of fluid coming out of the FRONT allen key hole this is satisfactory. This is how the factory rear is.
HOWEVER, with NON-C-CLIP rear ends, and WITH SEALED bearings which I believe many have, you actually DO NOT WANT TO FILL THE REAR END UP to where it is coming out of the FRONT 9/16ths allen key (or whatever size it is at the front of the pumpkin).
you want it about 1/2 and inch to an 1 inch BELOW the hole.
If you still experience leaks, then you can also order seals from a company called Seals-it, here are a few pictures of their seals. they are installed where the axle tube meets the pumpkin and seal completely around the axle itself. Only thing with installing this type of seal, is that you have to completely take off the back cover, take out axles, take out the center section of the rear end.
I feel that the answer to the oil coming out of the axle tubes is due to people over filling them, as per MOSER instructions it simply states fill the pumpkin until it comes out of the front fill hole.
HOWEVER, this is not necessary, as with it that FULL, fluid is basically just at the axle tube area and likely creeping down the axle tube without you even moving the car. Sealed bearings do not need lubrication, in the C-clipped rears they use bearings that are NOT sealed and require this lubrication.
So with installing these inner seals from Seals-It, and not filling the rear up all the way that will for certain stop the leaking. I however feel from my experience with all my BS with MOSER that simply leaving it 1/2" or 1" below that front hole will be significant enough to not leak anymore. However, being I don't want to deal with this crap anymore I'm taking all the steps I can to ensure no more leaks.
I wanted to add further explanation to those that buy rear ends, as the instructions given via phone or via manual in the shipping box, I want to elaborate a little on the 12 bolt rear ends.
With C-clip retained rear ends (12-bolt w/ C clip), the end bearing needs lubrication from the oil in the rear end (I believe from what I was told) and with a pumpkin filled to the point of fluid coming out of the FRONT allen key hole this is satisfactory. This is how the factory rear is.
HOWEVER, with NON-C-CLIP rear ends, and WITH SEALED bearings which I believe many have, you actually DO NOT WANT TO FILL THE REAR END UP to where it is coming out of the FRONT 9/16ths allen key (or whatever size it is at the front of the pumpkin).
you want it about 1/2 and inch to an 1 inch BELOW the hole.
If you still experience leaks, then you can also order seals from a company called Seals-it, here are a few pictures of their seals. they are installed where the axle tube meets the pumpkin and seal completely around the axle itself. Only thing with installing this type of seal, is that you have to completely take off the back cover, take out axles, take out the center section of the rear end.
I feel that the answer to the oil coming out of the axle tubes is due to people over filling them, as per MOSER instructions it simply states fill the pumpkin until it comes out of the front fill hole.
HOWEVER, this is not necessary, as with it that FULL, fluid is basically just at the axle tube area and likely creeping down the axle tube without you even moving the car. Sealed bearings do not need lubrication, in the C-clipped rears they use bearings that are NOT sealed and require this lubrication.
So with installing these inner seals from Seals-It, and not filling the rear up all the way that will for certain stop the leaking. I however feel from my experience with all my BS with MOSER that simply leaving it 1/2" or 1" below that front hole will be significant enough to not leak anymore. However, being I don't want to deal with this crap anymore I'm taking all the steps I can to ensure no more leaks.
I do apologize for posting without properly introducing myself. However, I'm desperate in getting my car back on the road again. No one around here really knows how to work on my car, but me (the guy at NAPA yesterday didn't even know that a Trans Am was a Firebird lol).
Long story short: Moser gave me a part number for a seal that I thought I needed (Chicago rawhide #15141 to be exact). I ordered the part from NAPA....Part came in...I took my rear-end apart to change the seal...that was when I realized the new seal was not the same as the one I thought I needed to replace (the one I thought needed to be replaced is the one that sits in the tube, so I pulled that one out). Lo and behold, I have pulled out a different seal that I now need...and I have a new seal that I don't have any idea where it is supposed to go.....Is this the correct seal that I need to put back in at least to make things somewhat the way they used to be?? --->
Also, is there a certain way I am supposed to pull the ring and pinion parts out of the "pumpkin" to install the Seal-it seal? I don't want to make things worse by doing this ....
Thanks for any help...
Thanks for any help...
Last edited by kingandrew99; 12-28-2014 at 04:02 AM. Reason: Forgot to ask a question
12-28-2014, 04:37 AM
#32
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Video This video shows the removal of the "inner" assembly of the old GM 12 bolt...
Is this the same concept as the Moser 12 bolt? I don't want to damage anything by removing this, so any tips would be helpful.
Also one more question:
My car is parked quite a distance away and it would be a pain to go out and get the proper measurement for the Seals-it seals. Would anyone happen to know this info? Thanks again!
Is this the same concept as the Moser 12 bolt? I don't want to damage anything by removing this, so any tips would be helpful.
Also one more question:
My car is parked quite a distance away and it would be a pain to go out and get the proper measurement for the Seals-it seals. Would anyone happen to know this info? Thanks again!
Last edited by kingandrew99; 12-29-2014 at 10:36 AM. Reason: Forgot to ask another question
