Measurements for a junkyard 9 inch build
#1
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Disclaimer: I am in no was responsible for any damage or injuries resulting from the information below. These measurments should only be used as a rough guide to help you when assembling your junkyard 9 inch build. Always measure twice and cut once. Proper safety and care should be used when welding as well. Always be safe and use proper judgement and common sense. Jerryrige at your own risk.
Ok guys, I know a lot of people often think about trying to cut up an old 9 inch for our cars to try and save money. Lets face it our 10-bolts are crap and GM blows for sticking us with it. Some of us like to piddle with stuff on our own time because we get bored or you might not be able to afford a bolt in rear end. Whatever the case may be I decided to post up some general measurements I pulled off my rear end I bought that was made from an old truck rear end.
I bought this rearend from the guys at Tick Performance when they were moving their shop out of Mooresvile. When I was talking to Johnathon about it he told me that he replaced it because the driveshaft was off center coming off the 3rd member going to the transmission. He said it didn't cause any vibrations or noise it just simply didn't look "right" so he swapped it out.
Now if you want and know someone with a Moser or Quick Performance rear-end it would serve you well to hop under their car and measure it and make any adjustments to avoid this issue. It didn't matter much to me because as long as it doesn't effect performance I won't be seeing it anyways.
You could also choose to narrow it so you can run a wheel with less backspacing. Which we all know is a help if you want to run the cheaper 10 inch Jeg's wheels or anything else with a bigger dish. If you want to, find someone with a narrowed Moser and measure it.
Anyways I felt I should let you know that because you might decide you don't want to use these measurements.
To further disclose myself I want you guys to know I am by no means a fabrication guy (I don't even own a welder) and that these measurements were taken with a tape measure in my shed. They should be used in conjunction with measuring your own 10-bolt to assure the best positioning possible and in the end the best finished product.
I just want to post this up in case it might help someone kicking around the idea. I know a lot of people have tried and ditched the project and since I have one that I know has been used and worked properly (although the driveshaft is misaligned a bit) I felt I should provide my fellow members with the information.
I'm going to embed the photo and upload it as an attachment encase something happens to my Photobucket account in the future.
![](http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i193/scottmoore_photos/rearendlabeled-1.jpg)
If the image is hard to read here are the measurements:
Total lenght from End plate to End plate - 59 1/4 inches
Close side of Spring perch to end plate passenger side - 8 1/4 inches
Far side of spring perch to axle tube weld passenger side - 2 1/2 inches
End plate width to weld on axle tube for passenger side - 2 1/2 inches
End plate to close side of LCA bracket passenger side - 6 inches
Far side of shock mount to axle tube weld pasenger side - 4 inches
End plate width to weld on axle tube driver side - 2 1/2 inches
End plate weld to close side of LCA bracket drive side - 5 3/4 inches (sorry if that is confusing, I measure to the end on the passenger side but this side is to the weld)
Far side of shock mount to axle tube weld driver side - 7 1/2 inches
Close side of spring perch to end plate WELD driver side - 5 7/8 inches (again this is to the weld where the end plate is welded to axle tube, sorry for the confusion) THIS IS WRONG IN THE PICTURE edit: fixed image with correct measurement
Far side of spring perch to axle tube weld driver side - 5 3/4 inches
Ok guys, I know a lot of people often think about trying to cut up an old 9 inch for our cars to try and save money. Lets face it our 10-bolts are crap and GM blows for sticking us with it. Some of us like to piddle with stuff on our own time because we get bored or you might not be able to afford a bolt in rear end. Whatever the case may be I decided to post up some general measurements I pulled off my rear end I bought that was made from an old truck rear end.
I bought this rearend from the guys at Tick Performance when they were moving their shop out of Mooresvile. When I was talking to Johnathon about it he told me that he replaced it because the driveshaft was off center coming off the 3rd member going to the transmission. He said it didn't cause any vibrations or noise it just simply didn't look "right" so he swapped it out.
Now if you want and know someone with a Moser or Quick Performance rear-end it would serve you well to hop under their car and measure it and make any adjustments to avoid this issue. It didn't matter much to me because as long as it doesn't effect performance I won't be seeing it anyways.
You could also choose to narrow it so you can run a wheel with less backspacing. Which we all know is a help if you want to run the cheaper 10 inch Jeg's wheels or anything else with a bigger dish. If you want to, find someone with a narrowed Moser and measure it.
Anyways I felt I should let you know that because you might decide you don't want to use these measurements.
To further disclose myself I want you guys to know I am by no means a fabrication guy (I don't even own a welder) and that these measurements were taken with a tape measure in my shed. They should be used in conjunction with measuring your own 10-bolt to assure the best positioning possible and in the end the best finished product.
I just want to post this up in case it might help someone kicking around the idea. I know a lot of people have tried and ditched the project and since I have one that I know has been used and worked properly (although the driveshaft is misaligned a bit) I felt I should provide my fellow members with the information.
I'm going to embed the photo and upload it as an attachment encase something happens to my Photobucket account in the future.
![](http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i193/scottmoore_photos/rearendlabeled-1.jpg)
If the image is hard to read here are the measurements:
Total lenght from End plate to End plate - 59 1/4 inches
Close side of Spring perch to end plate passenger side - 8 1/4 inches
Far side of spring perch to axle tube weld passenger side - 2 1/2 inches
End plate width to weld on axle tube for passenger side - 2 1/2 inches
End plate to close side of LCA bracket passenger side - 6 inches
Far side of shock mount to axle tube weld pasenger side - 4 inches
End plate width to weld on axle tube driver side - 2 1/2 inches
End plate weld to close side of LCA bracket drive side - 5 3/4 inches (sorry if that is confusing, I measure to the end on the passenger side but this side is to the weld)
Far side of shock mount to axle tube weld driver side - 7 1/2 inches
Close side of spring perch to end plate WELD driver side - 5 7/8 inches (again this is to the weld where the end plate is welded to axle tube, sorry for the confusion) THIS IS WRONG IN THE PICTURE edit: fixed image with correct measurement
Far side of spring perch to axle tube weld driver side - 5 3/4 inches
Last edited by My6speedZ; 09-19-2012 at 01:19 PM. Reason: Error in measurements
#4
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Can you clarify one thing? Is the Pinion Centerline closer to the Passenger side 15/16" then it is to the Drivers side? I have been told this is the proper amount by two axle companies.
Joe
Joe
#7
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Here are a few more measurements:
![](http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i193/scottmoore_photos/rearendlabeled2-1.jpg)
Passenger side end plate weld to passenger side axle tube weld - 12 inches
End plate weld to end plate weld - 54 inches
Axle tube weld to axle tube weld - 26 1/2 inches
Drivers side end plate weld to drivers side axle tube weld 15 1/2 inches
![](http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i193/scottmoore_photos/rearendlabeled2-1.jpg)
Passenger side end plate weld to passenger side axle tube weld - 12 inches
End plate weld to end plate weld - 54 inches
Axle tube weld to axle tube weld - 26 1/2 inches
Drivers side end plate weld to drivers side axle tube weld 15 1/2 inches
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#11
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Here is a good website with a ton of information about the old 9 inch rear ends.
There is a bunch of links at the bottom too.
I studied this site when I was looking into pulling a nine inch.
http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm
There is a bunch of links at the bottom too.
I studied this site when I was looking into pulling a nine inch.
http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm
#12
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Common 9" Ford axle widths:
65-66 Mustang 57.25 inches
67-70 Mustang 59.25 inches
71-73 Mustang 61.25 inches
77-81 Versailles 58.50 inches
74 Maverick 8" 56.50 inches
75 Mustang II 8" 57.00 inches
67-73 Mustang, Torino, Ranchero, Fairlane 9" 59.25 inches to 61.25 inches
57-59 Ranchero and Wagon 57.25 inches (narrowest 9" housing)
66-77 Bronco 9", 58 inches (has 5-on-5 1/2 inch diameter bolt circle)
77-81 Granada/Versailles, 58 inches
67-71 Comet, Cougar, Mustang, Fairlane, 59.25 inches
64 Falcon 58 inches
67 Cougar 60 inches
67 Fairlane 63.50 inches (coil springs)
72 Ford Van 3/4 ton 68 inches
67-73 Torino, Ranchero, Fairlane 59.25 inches or 61.25 inches
67-71 Comets, Cougars, Fairlanes 59.25 inches
Where to find 9" Rear Axles:
67-73 medium and big block Mustangs and Cougars-66-71 Fairlanes, Torinos, Montegos, Comets, and other Ford intermediates with big blocks
57-59 V8 Fords and Mercurys-77-81 Lincoln Versailles & Trucks
Types of 9" Ford axle housings
67-73 Mustang/Cougar - light duty, thinnest housing material, small axle bearings, 28 and 31 splines
57-68 passenger car and 1/2 ton truck - medium duty, stronger than Mustang type, 28 and 31 splines
Ranchero/Torino - heavy duty thick wall housing, 3.25 inch diameter axle tubes with flat tops
69-77 Galaxies (coils), Lincolns (coils), and late pickups (leaf)- 3.25 inch diameter all the way to the backing plate, coil housings have upper control arm mount.
How to recognize 9" Ford housing centers
57 - no dimples, flat center band up the center of the rear cover, bottom drain plug
58-59 - two dimples on back of housing, flat center band, some had drain holes
60-67 - two dimples, flat center band, oil level hole in back cover
63-77 Lincoln, LTD, Thunderbirds had 9.375 inch centers, housings were cut away at the gasket surface for ring gear clearance, one curved rib at the front top portion of differential. Strong, but no gear options.
9" Ford Axle Facts
28 spline axles cannot be shortened because they're tapered (except 69-73 Mustang and Cougars).
72 and earlier 31 spline axles have the ability to be shortened
73 and later 9" (big cars) have a 5-on-5 bolt circle and the axles cannot be shortened
#13
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This is some info about an old drum brake set-up, but im not sure what it came off of. It's from a forum post so I have no idea how accurate the information is. I will weigh mine before I put the 3rd member in if I remember.
__________________________________________________ _______________
9-inch Rear End Assembly Weight: 194 lbs.
1. Housing: 38 lbs.
2. Axles: Large Journal, 28-spline - 18 Lbs. ea.
3. Brakes: Massive 11-1/32 x 2½" Drum Assemblies - 26 lbs. ea.
4. 3rd Member: Conventional Diff. - 68 lbs.
a. w/Traction-Lok Diff. - 71 lbs.
__________________________________________________ _______________
9-inch Rear End Assembly Weight: 194 lbs.
1. Housing: 38 lbs.
2. Axles: Large Journal, 28-spline - 18 Lbs. ea.
3. Brakes: Massive 11-1/32 x 2½" Drum Assemblies - 26 lbs. ea.
4. 3rd Member: Conventional Diff. - 68 lbs.
a. w/Traction-Lok Diff. - 71 lbs.