rear passanger wheel popping..
#1
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rear passanger wheel popping..
Hey guys. New to the forums but been looking up tech info on here for years. I've got a 98 camaro a4 with a decent amount of suspension work done and a few bolt ons.
Just replaced my cracked stock torque arm for an umi adjustable. Finishing up the install my friend pulled himself out from under the car and found there was play and a loud popping noise coming from the rear passenger wheel. I replaced the torque arm because a shop told me the noise had been coming from that but i knew before that it most likely was not since the crack was only about a half inch long between the rear to bolts. I'm guessing this would be my axle bearings? I've tried to look up similar problems with no success. Everything I've read so far is saying when the rear axle bearings go bad there is whining or screeching. Any idea what I got myself into?
The popping has been happening while turning for awhile and been getting worse. As far as burnouts being any indicator.. If I launch strait both wheels spin if I turn left it usually spins both or sometimes just the inside wheel. turning right only does the inside unless I've got a lot of momentum behind it.
Thanks in advance guys. hope to get my car back to the track soon to see if i picked up anything with my torque arm swap!
Just replaced my cracked stock torque arm for an umi adjustable. Finishing up the install my friend pulled himself out from under the car and found there was play and a loud popping noise coming from the rear passenger wheel. I replaced the torque arm because a shop told me the noise had been coming from that but i knew before that it most likely was not since the crack was only about a half inch long between the rear to bolts. I'm guessing this would be my axle bearings? I've tried to look up similar problems with no success. Everything I've read so far is saying when the rear axle bearings go bad there is whining or screeching. Any idea what I got myself into?
The popping has been happening while turning for awhile and been getting worse. As far as burnouts being any indicator.. If I launch strait both wheels spin if I turn left it usually spins both or sometimes just the inside wheel. turning right only does the inside unless I've got a lot of momentum behind it.
Thanks in advance guys. hope to get my car back to the track soon to see if i picked up anything with my torque arm swap!
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it's on a 10 bolt with i think 3.73's in it.
just checked to make sure everything was still tight and noticed the driver rear tire is just as loos and clunking..
just checked to make sure everything was still tight and noticed the driver rear tire is just as loos and clunking..
Last edited by pk222; 03-11-2013 at 04:22 PM.
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the torque arm was cracked.. in the process of replacing it I found out there was play in the rear passenger wheel then after i had more time to look over everything and found the driver side to also have play. I'm guessing the axle bearings are shot. but I found a 10 bolt with around 50k on it for around 400 so I'm gonna pick that up and hope for the best.
got that purp by the ton what you need?
got that purp by the ton what you need?
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#8
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Yea man sound like your axle bearings are shot most of the whine people hear is from pinion bearings. I would check the cost of new install of new heavier duty bearings 10 bolts are notorious for that it would suck to get another axle and still end up doing bearings in the new one.
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I got quoted by a local shop for just bearings nd the guy said it would be between 5-700.. I'm just gonna pick up the other axle cuz that's crazy to blow that on a 10 bolt
#10
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What kind of play exactly? Up and down play would be wheel bearings, pull the axles and take em to driveline shop, should be like $20 a piece to get new bearings pressed on. If it's in and out play its probably the posi thats bad, assuming it's the auburn which it could be for 98. The cone clutches wear and allow the spiders and in turn the c-clip and whole axle to move out towards the wheels more, even a 1/4" or so is no bueno. Look for signs of the rotors hitting the caliper mounting brackets. I was able to shim out the caliper brackets to get rid of the clearence issue there, but it's just a matter of time 'till the spiders let go(less contact=less strength).
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There's a lot of side to side play nd that loud noise.. Everything else has checked out so i'm thinking it has you be something in the rear. I got quoted 5-700 just for axle bearings so i'm gonna go with the other used axle try to check it out first..
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Any ideas for checking out the new rear end? so far now i'm planning to pop off the cover nd check for wear nd axle play. Anything else I should check out?
#14
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Are you looking at some spec for axle play that can be measured at the diff? II'm definitely not familiar with one, the 10 bolt is intentionally sloppy with the c clips...or am I missing what youre saying?
Check the magnet and oil. If it were me id pull the axles and look at the bearing surfaces, maybe replace the seals. Look at the wear pattern on the gears. Definitely inspect the pinion seal for leaks.
Check the magnet and oil. If it were me id pull the axles and look at the bearing surfaces, maybe replace the seals. Look at the wear pattern on the gears. Definitely inspect the pinion seal for leaks.
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The one I currently have in the car is leaking from the diff cover. Im guessing that's why the bearings took a dump on me. I've noticed it for a while but put it off because of lack of time nd being lazy. The pinion seal is not leaking. I don't have any experience with rear ends aside from normal pulling the cover nd swapping fluid so i'm not very confident of doing it myself