2000 Tran Am rear end
#1
2000 Tran Am rear end
Hi all, I would greatly appreciate some advice on this.
I have purchased a highly modified 2000 Trans AM. I'm concerned that the rear end was modified, and its failing.
It's hard to explain. It's making noises just like old drum brakes, when the springs would break. a creaking, scraping and popping noise. I have looked at all external mechanics, and all seems well. it has rear disc brakes.
Now, i just drove the car 800 miles from Denver, with no issues. It drives around town just fine.
Can anyone offer some suggestions?
I have purchased a highly modified 2000 Trans AM. I'm concerned that the rear end was modified, and its failing.
It's hard to explain. It's making noises just like old drum brakes, when the springs would break. a creaking, scraping and popping noise. I have looked at all external mechanics, and all seems well. it has rear disc brakes.
Now, i just drove the car 800 miles from Denver, with no issues. It drives around town just fine.
Can anyone offer some suggestions?
#3
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I would pull the cover off the and look at the bearings, my 99 Z28 was whining real bad and the bearings were in real bad shape. I replaced the bearings and seals and it has been fine for about a year now.
#4
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Does a 2000 have a auburn style or a torsen style? An auburn style uses spider gears. When spider gears wear out they skip a tooth under acceleration giving off a poping sound. They can be rebuilt with a new set of spider gears from auburn and a new crush sleeve.
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#8
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Finally got it in the shop. Everything in the case looks in good shape. It had some fairly new purple gear oil.
So, several mechanics looked at it, and they couldn't find anything evidently wrong. All the teeth are in good order, no broken parts.
It only makes noises when turning. When you get going straight, its quiet as a mouse. But, holy smokes, when you slow down and turn, it sounds like the rear ends going to fall out
[IMG][/IMG]
Finally got it in the shop. Everything in the case looks in good shape. It had some fairly new purple gear oil.
So, several mechanics looked at it, and they couldn't find anything evidently wrong. All the teeth are in good order, no broken parts.
It only makes noises when turning. When you get going straight, its quiet as a mouse. But, holy smokes, when you slow down and turn, it sounds like the rear ends going to fall out
#13
Ok, that's what I was thinking, but thanks for the specifics.
I've got a couple more questions:
Here are the High Performance options from Auburn.
1988–Present 542040 3.23:1 & Up 28 Teeth
1976–1988 542041 3.08:1 & Down 28 Teeth
As my original gears were 2.73, and they're now 3.73, do you think the differential was changed? Or do I have 3.73 ring gears on the 3:08 and down differential? Is this possible?
And, If i purchase a new differential, do I need to stick with the Auburn? Or can go with the Eaton.
I've got a couple more questions:
Here are the High Performance options from Auburn.
1988–Present 542040 3.23:1 & Up 28 Teeth
1976–1988 542041 3.08:1 & Down 28 Teeth
As my original gears were 2.73, and they're now 3.73, do you think the differential was changed? Or do I have 3.73 ring gears on the 3:08 and down differential? Is this possible?
And, If i purchase a new differential, do I need to stick with the Auburn? Or can go with the Eaton.
#14
I found this on Craigslist. Its a 10 bolt F-Body Rearend minus brakes, out of 2002 Z-28 A4 Low miles 8k, RPO CODE GU5 3.23 for $500. Is it worth it? Should it bolt right into my application?
#15
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Your current diff is a replacement from somewhere because your car originally came with a torsen. Regarding the diff purchase alone you need to know whether it is a 3 series or a 2 series. FromI everything I know your current is a 3 series and this is very important for you to be sure of, so please do a bit of investigation to double check me, I am just a random guy on the internet.
For the full r&r rear from CL what is important is whether it is 3 channel (abs only like what you have) or 4 channel (abs + tcs). You want to make sure you get a 3 channel. It looks to be 3 channel to me as there appears to be a sensor on top of the pumpkin but again random Internet guy here.
Is it worth it? IMO thats top dollar for a used 10 bolt...but if you aren't familiar and/or dont have the tools to do rearend work it is a reasonable option. Rearend work is a bitch. But given that your car is "highly modified" I would consider upgrading to something better IF you want to launch on sticky tires. For spinning on cold street rubber the 10b will work...but they scare the $÷=& out of me at the track. A bit over 2k can get you a 9" with a spool. Its 4x the dosh and 9" have their own pecularities...but they dont have c clips and have a more robust pinion bearing scheme...among several other advantages.
In any case, if you change ratios you will need a minor tune. . .and you can buy any diff you want but you need to get the right series carrier or your gears wont line up.
For the full r&r rear from CL what is important is whether it is 3 channel (abs only like what you have) or 4 channel (abs + tcs). You want to make sure you get a 3 channel. It looks to be 3 channel to me as there appears to be a sensor on top of the pumpkin but again random Internet guy here.
Is it worth it? IMO thats top dollar for a used 10 bolt...but if you aren't familiar and/or dont have the tools to do rearend work it is a reasonable option. Rearend work is a bitch. But given that your car is "highly modified" I would consider upgrading to something better IF you want to launch on sticky tires. For spinning on cold street rubber the 10b will work...but they scare the $÷=& out of me at the track. A bit over 2k can get you a 9" with a spool. Its 4x the dosh and 9" have their own pecularities...but they dont have c clips and have a more robust pinion bearing scheme...among several other advantages.
In any case, if you change ratios you will need a minor tune. . .and you can buy any diff you want but you need to get the right series carrier or your gears wont line up.
#16
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It does appear to be an auburn, I would stick with that over a torsen. Reason is there's bolts on a torsen carrier that like to loosen up & break. The auburn doesn't have these bolts. Maybe it just needs some limited slip additive added, lacking that could make it noisy on turns like you describe. I forgot to add it once & it sounded scary on turns.
#17
#18
It does appear to be an auburn, I would stick with that over a torsen. Reason is there's bolts on a torsen carrier that like to loosen up & break. The auburn doesn't have these bolts. Maybe it just needs some limited slip additive added, lacking that could make it noisy on turns like you describe. I forgot to add it once & it sounded scary on turns.
THANKS SO FOR EVERYTHING THUS FAR!!
#19
I forgot to add. This is not a track car. I had purchased it for my wife. It will be her daily driver. I don't want to remove the high performance equipment, but I'll do what is needed to make it a reliable sports car.