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A 1000 miles to break in??????

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Old 04-24-2013, 08:45 PM
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Default A 1000 miles to break in??????

Took my 99 z28 6 speed camaro to az differentials last thursday to get some 4.10s installed hours later after i dropped off the car they told me that my bearings were bad so they needed to to be replaced so they replaced them. Car is finished later on that day so i picked it up, the guy told me i had to put 1000 miles on it to break in i think that's a lot so now I'm daily driving my car. My question is do i really need to put a thousand miles on it just wondering sounds like too much????????????
Old 04-24-2013, 09:16 PM
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Follow break in procedures or they Will whine like a ****.. I didn't and mine were horrible. Followed it on the second one and was dead silent.

I would Google for proper break in.
Old 04-25-2013, 04:37 PM
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my first thought is what if its a track car - thats a lot of part throttle 1/4 mile passes lol , another thought is maybe you can put a lot of miles on it in a hurry low load in overdrive on jack stands ???
Old 04-25-2013, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by murphinator
my first thought is what if its a track car - thats a lot of part throttle 1/4 mile passes lol , another thought is maybe you can put a lot of miles on it in a hurry low load in overdrive on jack stands ???
If it is a track car, I wouldn't care if it whined.
Old 04-25-2013, 06:12 PM
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I raised a similar point in the drag tech forum and did some digging on my own. I came to the conclusion that you break it in the same way you plan to use it. I wouldn't try to make a pass without warming up the fluid first though.

The papers I have from strange suggest a 500 mile break in.
Old 04-26-2013, 07:34 AM
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I would think hammering on a fresh rear might cause some slack in the bearings. leading to extra slack in the drivetrain and could cause rear damage. Maybe jack the car up brace it good and put some miles on it. Just my thoughts.
Old 04-26-2013, 01:37 PM
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http://www.moserengineering.com/mose...ing.pinion.pdf

http://www.ringpinion.com/technicalh...r_Break-In.inc

In most stock vehicles with stock tires there is seldom a risk of a burned gear set. For those of us who modify and use our trucks, there many situations that can contribute to burned gear syndrome. Motorhomes, towing, tall tires, and high numeric gear ratios (4.56 & up) can all generate a lot of heat and cause the gear oil to break down. The greatest damage to a new gear set results from running for ten minutes or more during the first 500 miles when the oil is very hot. Any heavy use or overloading while the oil is extremely hot will cause it to break down and allow irreversible damage to the ring & pinion.

In order to make them run cooler and quieter, new gears are lapped at the factory. However, they are not lapped under the same pressures that driving creates. The loads generated while driving force any microscopic high spots on the gear teeth back into the surface of the metal. This is called "work hardening". Work hardening is similar to forging in the way that it compresses the metal molecules into a very compact and hard formation. This can only be accomplished if the metal surfaces are lubricated and the gear temperature stays cool enough that the molecular structure does not change. If the temperature of the metal gets hot enough to change the molecular structure, it will soften the surface instead of hardening it. This may seen like a balancing act, but it all happens easily and passively as long as the oil keeps the gear cool while it is breaking in. Some of the synthetic oils on the market today can help a gear set live longer. I've had great success with Red Line ®, Torco ®, and Richmond Gear ® synthetic gear oils. These oils will continue to lubricate at temperatures where many crude oils break down.

Even with synthetic oils, I still recommend the following procedure for breaking in a new gear set: After driving the first 15 to 20 miles, stop and let the differential cool before proceeding. Keep the vehicle at speeds below 60 mph for the first 100 miles. I also recommend putting at least 500 miles on the new gear set before heavy use or towing. During the first 45 miles of towing, it helps to go about 15 miles at a time before stopping to let the differential cool for 15 minutes before continuing. This is necessary because not all of the gear tooth is making contact until it is heavily loaded. When towing, the teeth flex to contact completely, and cause the previously unloaded portion of the teeth to touch and work harden. It is very easy to damage the ring & pinion by overloading before the teeth are broken-in. If you take it easy on a new ring & pinion and keep it full of high quality oil, it will last a lot longer.

With regards to limited slip additives, I have found that using too much additive can lead to premature gear wear. Use just enough to keep the limited slip from chattering but not more than 4 oz for every 2 qts of oil. It is a good idea to change the gear oil after the first 500 miles in order to remove any metal particles or phosphorus coating that has come from the new gear set. This is cheap insurance and a good time to discover any problems before they grow too big
Old 04-27-2013, 05:19 PM
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I say find a cabin or B&B at least 400 miles away, grab a hot date and have a lost weekend. 500 miles away if you don't plan on doing any local touring around.
Old 05-08-2013, 10:10 PM
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Just hit a 1000 earlier today, i followed the procedures and I'm going to az diff tomorrow morning for the fluid change. And no it's not a track car or doesn't get towed it's not my daily either just take it out when i want too. Thanks for all the advice people. So now that I'm getting the fluid changed tomorrow do i also have to put miles on that?
Old 05-08-2013, 10:20 PM
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No. You're changing the fluid after break in to get whatever metal shavings that may be in there out.
Old 05-15-2013, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 1320Chicken
No. You're changing the fluid after break in to get whatever metal shavings that may be in there out.
Smooth
Old 05-16-2013, 07:55 AM
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The miles don't matter...it's the number of heat cycles. Going out and driving 500-1,000 miles in one shot would not be a good break in procedure, and it would be for the reason cited above...when gears are new, they generate a ton of heat the first few times they are run. Running new gears/bearings at that high level of heat for a long period of time is what can cause problems.

Ideally, you'd run about 10 or so heat cycles, with a heat cycle being a run up to full operating temp and then allowed to cool back to ambient temps. How many miles does it take for a rear end to get up to operating temps? Not sure, but an IR thermometer might help.
Old 06-14-2013, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
The miles don't matter...it's the number of heat cycles. Going out and driving 500-1,000 miles in one shot would not be a good break in procedure, and it would be for the reason cited above...when gears are new, they generate a ton of heat the first few times they are run. Running new gears/bearings at that high level of heat for a long period of time is what can cause problems.

Ideally, you'd run about 10 or so heat cycles, with a heat cycle being a run up to full operating temp and then allowed to cool back to ambient temps. How many miles does it take for a rear end to get up to operating temps? Not sure, but an IR thermometer might help.

So as in now i put over a 1000 miles, so there not fully broken into.



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