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How hard to install 9"?

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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 05:43 PM
  #61  
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Can someone tell me where I'm supposed to put the angle finder when adjusting the torque arm. I know one point is at the rear yoke on the flat right next to the u-joint. I put a square on that and finder on the bottom of the square.

Is the second point on the DS close to the u-joint or up close to the trans on the DS or what. I'm finding so many different answers for this it's crazy.
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by BrntWS6
Can someone tell me where I'm supposed to put the angle finder when adjusting the torque arm. I know one point is at the rear yoke on the flat right next to the u-joint. I put a square on that and finder on the bottom of the square.

Is the second point on the DS close to the u-joint or up close to the trans on the DS or what. I'm finding so many different answers for this it's crazy.
I didn't like the DS method..

I measured the harmonic balancer's face and recorded the angle.

Then measured the rear pinion yoke's face and recorded the angle...

Make them the same angle and now your at 0 driveline angle..

Then adjust your torque arm to your desired setting.

I'm going to set mine -1.5* to start with

Good luck
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Burken01
I didn't like the DS method..

I measured the harmonic balancer's face and recorded the angle.

Then measured the rear pinion yoke's face and recorded the angle...

Make them the same angle and now your at 0 driveline angle..

Then adjust your torque arm to your desired setting.

I'm going to set mine -1.5* to start with

Good luck
OK so the end result is to have a 0* to -1.5* on the rear pinion yoke right?

So for example if you measure the front (at pulley) and its +2 the rear yoke should be -2 before adjusting the TA correct?
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 10:52 AM
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If crank is at +3, adjust rear till its at -3. Now your at 0.

Now adjust rear to -4.5 and that will put you at -1.5 pinion

Last edited by Burken01; Oct 22, 2013 at 11:08 AM.
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 11:24 AM
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Thanks...that helped a lot.
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 08:08 PM
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OMG that $10 angle finder sucks *****. Got it in the -1 to -1.5 range though.

Harbor freight has dial angle finders for $5 and a digital one for $30. The digital would have been worth it.

Last edited by BrntWS6; Oct 22, 2013 at 09:14 PM.
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BrntWS6
OMG that $10 angle finder sucks *****. Got it in the -1 to -1.5 range though.

Harbor freight has dial angle finders for $5 and a digital one for $30. The digital would have been worth it.
Sears has a nice digital read out for $35, comes with a nice little carrying case..
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 10:40 PM
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Yeah, the digital read out angle finders are so much easier to read, IMO worth the extra cost ! It even makes adjustments down to .1* easy!
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 01:23 PM
  #69  
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Went for one last drive before storing it for the winter with everything dialed in. There is some driveline noise through the TA. Not too bad but I definitely know its there. In the spring I'm going put a thin anti-vibration mat between the cross member and floor to see if that helps any. I'll also get a 4 wheel alignment since I never got one after lowering my car.

I was really tempted to open it up a bit and feel the new gear ratio but I'll have to wait till May. Ill post back then on the difference the 3.90s made, but at least its all ready to go.

I'd say that this was actually easier than installing my TD's. But they were a royal pain to fine tune so nothing was hitting.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 04:40 PM
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OK so I put an anti noise and vibration mat between the cross member and frame to see if it would reduce the noise any. There was no change at all so I don't think its coming up the TA. How much noise is inherent with these rears? I really don't think I'm hearing gear whine...my 10 bolt had it and this sounds completely different, lower pitch. Plus it does it all the time getting louder the faster I go. I have pinion angle set at -1.5*.

Iron center section
Long TA
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 01:56 PM
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I wonder if changing out the two solid rod-ends on the rear of the TA with a set of QA1 X series(PTFE/KEVLAR lined) rod-ends would help cut down on any vibration/noise transfer through the TA..?

BTW, does anyone (maybe someone who hasn't installed theirs yet) know the thread size and diameter, width and bore size of the solid rod-ends the come with the MWC Fab9 TA..?

Last edited by 99Bluz28; Nov 11, 2013 at 02:11 PM.
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 05:36 PM
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I'll try and get a recording of it this weekend or sooner. I expected it to quiet down at least some with the mat I used if it was through the TA....it's made of Butyl which is for sound and vibration. I was thinking I should check my pinion angle with a better digital angle finder. That cheap one was very hard for me to read on my back.
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