ENASNI TILLER

I know it's overkill. Since I'm changing out the yoke seal and ball joints I decided to flush the old oil and replace the diff cover. It's for a 98 WS6. The car is stock except for cat back and slp lid.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66667/10002/-1

Mean87SS

iTrader: (21)

Good for looking cool and for loosing weight from your wallet.

ENASNI TILLER

Considering you can't see the cover from anywhere other then under the car.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Probably adds a little strength to the diff, makes fluid changes a breeze, and looks cool. Win/win if you've got the extra cash.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Anything to help keep the 10-bolt together is a good idea, IMO. I'm more a fan of the LPW as you can get their brace kit as well. At the very least, I'd suggest picking up the hardened cap studs while you're in there.

ENASNI TILLER

Do you have a link to the LPW? I was looking for cost effective since my car is basically stock.

ENASNI TILLER

Just ordered the preform.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

LPW= USA made. Proform= China. LPW has extra holes for brace kit and is only about 10.00 more.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I know you already purchased the Proform, but I'll put the link here for anyone who is looking for LPW info: http://www.lpwracing.com/

ENASNI TILLER

If I would have known about them I would have bought from them. I don't mind paying extra for parts made in the USA.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

The TA Performance girdle cover is very nice also and made in USA too. You could send the proform one back, Don't forget to get the ARP stud kit for the carrier caps as was mentioned above.
Info on stud kit, https://ls1tech.com/forums/15689200-post15.html

ENASNI TILLER

I don't want to get to deep into the diff since I know nothing about them hehe. I'll save all that for when the diff lets loose.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

not deep......Instructions:
http://www.taperformance.com/PDF/Rea...structions.pdf

ENASNI TILLER

I'm not going to have time to order the parts and get the car back on the road before sunday. Next time I have the rear end open I'll tackle that job. Thanks for that link, it answered some questions I had.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I didn't see made in the USA in the specs but it did say machined here. It could still be casted overseas I'm not sure.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

I bought a TA cover for my 10 bolt and it has USA cast right into the cover at the bottom on the outside AND the inside.
Pics:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/13416798-post1.html

ENASNI TILLER

Installed it the other night. It came with bolts but they're barely long enough to get into the threads on the rear end. I'm going to end up changing them out later next week. It definitely holds more oil then the stocker. I just put the 4th qt in it and it's still not coming out the fill hole. I decided that it was enough and buttoned it up though.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

The top hole on the cover is just for filling, you still us the plug on the side of the rear end housing to set the gear lube level. Full is 2-2.5 qts, you're overfilling the rear end if you're using the top hole on the cover for the full level.

ENASNI TILLER

I didn't think about that. Looks like I'm draining some fluid tomorrow. I feel kind of stupid now hehe.