Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

Edit: read a few posts in for noise

Can't seem to get any torque arm to line up on my Moser 9" housing. It seems like it's crooked towards the passenger side of the car. I can't get the front of the TA to line up with the factory mount clamshell and the farthest it will go is by the trans mount. I tried with my UMI adjustable TA and the stock TA, neither work.

The rear seems centered from what I can tell. I'm using the factory LCAs, UMI adjustable TA, and UMI adjustable panhard. When the rain stops I'll go loosen some bolts, remove the panhard, and try to get it aligned but it looks pretty far off. Anyone experience something similar?

Maybe a bracket on the rear is off?

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

Before anyone asks, yes, the ta bracket is bolted all the way down. No matter what I do the torque arm comes in contact with the driveshaft and points right at the center of the trans mount.

Mount isn't touching the third member either.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Do try it with the panhard unbolted, I'll bet that is your problem. Bob

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

Took the panhard off, still crooked. I went to the hardware store and got four 3/4 hardened washers. I put 2 under each of the inner bolts and was able to bolt the TA up and take it for a drive. The mount has to be crooked or one of the mounting points on the housing is off. So much for "bolt in." I'm going to take a washer out on each side and readjust the panhard so it's a little more centered.

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

I finally got to test drive it last night. Went on a short trip to heat cycle the gears and it's pretty noisy overall. I'm getting a considerable amount of gear whine at low speeds that sounds like a jet engine. It gets a little quieter as the speed increases but it's still there. I thought the pattern was good but maybe it needs to be reset. Backlash at 8. Pinion is at 15 inch lbs of rotating torque with the solid spacer. Whole rear has about 15 miles on it.

Yukon aluminum center, through bolt
Aluminum daytona support
Motive 3.89 gears orange box
Wavetrac
35 spline axles

I know 9s are supposed to be noisier but I'm not sure by how much. My poly trans, poly ta, and rod end panhard definitely aren't helping. I can tolerate loud if it's strong. Does this pattern look good?

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

Pattern

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

Focused more on it being centered root to tip than heel to toe.

Maybe the carrier bearing or pinion bearing preload is too high. Would that make it whine like crazy?

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

With the amount of $$$ these rears cost there's no excuse for the problems you're having.

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

I know, this is frustrating. I have so much wrapped up in this bolt in rear and almost nothing bolts in.

LCA brackets were loose
Panhard didn't fit
E-brake cable mounts didn't fit
Sway bar touches the housing
TA is loose on the mount
TA is too far forward

And now this. I just want to drive my car.

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

Went out for another drive today to get a better idea of the noise. The whining almost sounds like a jet taking off or like I have straight cut gears and is more high pitched. It starts at a very low speed (like 10-15 mph) and gets louder around 35 mph. Beyond 35 mph the noise gets quieter but it's still somewhat audible. Road noise, wind, and exhaust kinda drown it out. It's a little bit louder when accelerating than coasting but not by much, it's not terribly loud and I could live with it if something isn't wrong.
Could this be from excessive bearing preload on the pinion or carrier?

I got the car up to 50~ to listen. It makes a different sound that's more of a howl from 55-45 when coasting down and isn't as high pitched as the first sound. I don't remember it being really noisy when accelerating but the decel is LOUD compared to everything else I've heard. It seems like it could have a different source than the other noises I'm experiencing.

I'll pull the third member within the next few days to check everything out. Any opinions on my contact pattern? I've set up a few 10 bolts with similar patterns and they were silent. This is my first 9" and seemed a lot harder to fine tune.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

It looks like the pinion is too deep to me, add some shim to the pinion support. Don't forget to check the backlash too, before and after.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Who did you order this rear through? Bob

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

Here's the pattern I had with a slightly thicker shim stack (right now is 29.5... this was 31 so a difference of 1.5 thou). Is this good or should it come out more? I kept the backlash at 7-8.





I moved it in a little bit deeper because someone told me my contact pattern didn't look spread out enough.

Edit: fixed pictures

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

You guys.

I guess it's too late to do anything about it now. I've already addressed most of the issues with a little creativity. I made little spacers to fill the gaps between LCAs and their brackets. No clunking from what I can tell. I filed down one of the rod ends on my PHB just enough until it slipped into the mount. I cut the e-brake mounting brackets where they're supposed to wrap around the LCA mount because they weren't wide enough. It's holding up fine.

I haven't addressed the sway bar yet. It comes in contact with the end of the tube that's welded to the housing for the TA mount. I'm sure a little bit of grinding would fix that.

I need fab up a spacer out of sheet metal or washers to go between my UMI TA and the TA mount on the rear. That's definitely clunking.

I also found a thread on this board discussing TA length for the Moser 9". A rep from UMI said to cut 1/4" off of the front of the TA so it will clear the trans crossmember (I had to cut about 1/2"). I also had to modify the poly bushing a little bit so it would slide up far enough to slip into the clamshell without putting tension on the tailshaft housing.

It's not that big of a deal, it's just frustrating because I really expected more from Moser. Not sure if I feel too good about my washer fix for the TA mount... It doesn't sit flush and there are little gaps. My car has been on jackstands for two weeks because of the little things and crappy weather.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Let me know if you want to send in the center section to have the gears looked at and readjusted it need be.

I'm not sure what the problem is with the torque arm bracket, I haven't had a problem with them before, at least no one has ever told me they had a problem. Please send some pic's of it to me when you can to my e-mail address. Thanks. Bob

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

Don't really have time for that, leaving for Cruise Week in Ocean City, MD in 10 days so this thing needs to be together regardless of whine.

Does the pattern in post #13 look good enough or should it come out more? I took pictures of each pattern I ran when playing with shims. I might have another pic with the pinion even more shallow.

I think I'm gonna take it out a little more than that.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

The pattern in post #13 looks good to me, it's centered more up from the flank. Just to check, you could try a two or three size thicker shim to see if it gets better yet or worse. It's easier to see trends by taking bigger steps and then fine tune it from there.

I found this Yukon Gear Install Manual very helpful.
http://www.yukongear.com/Downloads/M...structions.pdf

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

I've tried, the patterns seem harder to read than the others I've done and the slightest change in shim seems to have a greater effect. If I take the pinion out another 3-4 thou the patterns become arrow shaped and confusing. I think I'm gonna take another 1 thou off of what I have in #13 and try again. I think the drive looks a little deep from the hard line on the bottom?

Heyfred

iTrader: (10)

Here is my first time ever setup, as per watching (4 part) the above video. Quiet as a church mouse.

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

That's the EXACT video I kept referencing when building my third member. I found it extremely frustrating that his patterns are insanely clear, centered, and easy to read whereas mine seemed split and varied.

Dunno what gears he's using but these 3.89 Motives were a bitch. I've done 10 bolt 3.73 and 4.10 Motives and they set up just like that.

I keep getting conflicting information regarding how to set up gears. I was under the impression that it's more important for the pattern to be centered vertically than horizontally and that there should be no hard lines. The pattern should be ovate and diffused and heel to toe isn't as much of a concern. A pattern that shaped like a frown means the pinion is too deep and a smile means too shallow. Drive moves in (toe) and down (root) as the pinion gets deeper and coast moves out (heel) and up (tip).

That coast pattern seems to have a hard line at the bottom. What's your backlash like?