are GM gears strong compared to aftermarket? (richmond etc?)
05-17-2004, 10:18 PM
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are GM gears strong compared to aftermarket? (richmond etc?) i decided to keep my stock 10 bolt for awhile so i need to get a fairly strong set of gears. between GM gears, and something aftermarket (like richmond) which should I get?
05-17-2004, 10:50 PM
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Aftermarket. GM Motive gears compromise strength for quietness. Aftermarket gears like Richmond or Strange are definitely stronger but they are noisier. However, it's still a 10 bolt 
05-17-2004, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
Aftermarket. GM Motive gears compromise strength for quietness. Aftermarket gears like Richmond or Strange are definitely stronger but they are noisier. However, it's still a 10 bolt
05-18-2004, 07:45 AM
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Look at it this way. It doesn't really matter how strong the gears are in the 10-bolt because the Achilles Heel is the housing, not the gears. The housing flexes under load allowing the pinion gear to walk up the ring gear, resulting in broken teeth.
Because of this inherent weakness, you should by gears that will run quiet so as not to annoy you. Genuine GM or SLP gears will be quiet if setup properly, and they are plenty strong for the 10-bolt.
Some inexpensive things you can do to help combat the weak housing are:
1. Weld the axle tubes to the housing completely: $25-30
2. Solid Pinion Spacer in lieu of the crush collar: $20
3. ARP Main stud kit: $20
4. SLP Aluminum Cover: $90
The last option is up to you (it's a little expensive), but I highly recommend the others as they will help the housing a bit.
Because of this inherent weakness, you should by gears that will run quiet so as not to annoy you. Genuine GM or SLP gears will be quiet if setup properly, and they are plenty strong for the 10-bolt.
Some inexpensive things you can do to help combat the weak housing are:
1. Weld the axle tubes to the housing completely: $25-30
2. Solid Pinion Spacer in lieu of the crush collar: $20
3. ARP Main stud kit: $20
4. SLP Aluminum Cover: $90
The last option is up to you (it's a little expensive), but I highly recommend the others as they will help the housing a bit.
05-18-2004, 08:19 AM
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[QUOTE=NOBR8KSS]Some inexpensive things you can do to help combat the weak housing are:
1. Weld the axle tubes to the housing completely: $25-30
2. Solid Pinion Spacer in lieu of the crush collar: $20
3. ARP Main stud kit: $20
4. SLP Aluminum Cover: $90
I understand the last two.. by welding the tube your implying the axle
tubes move????
from my stang days the reasons for welding the tubes was to keep
the spot welds from breaking loose when launching at 6k w/ slicks
and the other is to make the axle tubes are strait (bar & collar)
I have an idea where your going with the pinion spacer
but, the way the the pinion gear is retained in the housing it has forces
acting on it somewhat from both sides..(i have never seen one change compression)
not trying to flame, just asking questions....
1. Weld the axle tubes to the housing completely: $25-30
2. Solid Pinion Spacer in lieu of the crush collar: $20
3. ARP Main stud kit: $20
4. SLP Aluminum Cover: $90
I understand the last two.. by welding the tube your implying the axle
tubes move????
from my stang days the reasons for welding the tubes was to keep
the spot welds from breaking loose when launching at 6k w/ slicks
and the other is to make the axle tubes are strait (bar & collar)
I have an idea where your going with the pinion spacer
but, the way the the pinion gear is retained in the housing it has forces
acting on it somewhat from both sides..(i have never seen one change compression)
not trying to flame, just asking questions....
05-20-2004, 03:11 PM
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Supposedly, the solid pinion spacer prevents the pinion gear from walking up the ring gear. When that situation happens, the contact pattern of the teeth on the gears changes, resulting in a greater chance of broken teeth on the ring and pinion gears. I have yet to see any "real" evidence that this works, but for $20, I think it's worth a shot.
As far as welding the axle tubes to the housing, again, there is no "real" evidence to suggest that it adds to the overall integrity of the housing, but for $25 , why not give it a shot.
The 10-bolt is a marginal rear-end at best. The way I see it, if I can spend a $1-200 to increase the strength of the 10-bolt, even if only to make it last while I save for a 12-bolt, then I have made a reasonable investment. I probably wouldn't spend the money to upgrade the gears in the 10-bolt, but I like to offer advise to people who do want to do it.
As far as welding the axle tubes to the housing, again, there is no "real" evidence to suggest that it adds to the overall integrity of the housing, but for $25 , why not give it a shot.
The 10-bolt is a marginal rear-end at best. The way I see it, if I can spend a $1-200 to increase the strength of the 10-bolt, even if only to make it last while I save for a 12-bolt, then I have made a reasonable investment. I probably wouldn't spend the money to upgrade the gears in the 10-bolt, but I like to offer advise to people who do want to do it.