Best 60 Foot on Stock 7.5"?
#101
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just started by 10 bolt build today. The initial build is going to consist of the following:
-Motive 3.90 gears
-Motive rebuild kit with new bearings, seals, and gaskets.
-LPW girdle cover
-Welded axle tubes
NOT going to go easy on it. Hoping to cut 1.8x 60fts first time out which shouldn't be a problem. If it holds up well to a couple track visits, my girdle has provisions on it for the LPW brace kit, which I will add at that time along with possibly a solid pinion spacer, and see just how much I can get out of this thing. Goal it to get it to survive 1.6x-1.7x 60fts. If I can achieve that then I'll continue pushing it from there, but 1.6x with a M6 would be awesome.
My current best so far is a pathetic 2.1 60ft on completely untouched M6 rear with pathetic driving on my part. 3k dumps but falling on its face bogging hard off the line. No noises or issues since then. I will also be dropping a bit of weight from the car, not sure if that makes things easier on the rear end.
Will update when the build is done and will post 60fts and ETs once I get out to the track.
-Motive 3.90 gears
-Motive rebuild kit with new bearings, seals, and gaskets.
-LPW girdle cover
-Welded axle tubes
NOT going to go easy on it. Hoping to cut 1.8x 60fts first time out which shouldn't be a problem. If it holds up well to a couple track visits, my girdle has provisions on it for the LPW brace kit, which I will add at that time along with possibly a solid pinion spacer, and see just how much I can get out of this thing. Goal it to get it to survive 1.6x-1.7x 60fts. If I can achieve that then I'll continue pushing it from there, but 1.6x with a M6 would be awesome.
My current best so far is a pathetic 2.1 60ft on completely untouched M6 rear with pathetic driving on my part. 3k dumps but falling on its face bogging hard off the line. No noises or issues since then. I will also be dropping a bit of weight from the car, not sure if that makes things easier on the rear end.
Will update when the build is done and will post 60fts and ETs once I get out to the track.
It makes things MUCH EASIER, not just on the rear axle and it's components, but EVERYTHING else as well (gearbox, motor mounts, trans mount, driveshaft and u-joints, etc.). ![Thumb](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/thumb.gif)
Many on here do not understand this, and try for crazy 60 foots/E.T.s with their "full weight"/loaded up with audio and other crap f bodies (I'm guessing for 'bragging rights'), and then wonder why they are breaking even very strong rear axles and such when they attempt their 1.5 or quicker 60 foots on wrinkle walls, with 500+ to the wheels in a 3900 pound car before their weight is added in.
![Thumb](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/thumb.gif)
Many on here do not understand this, and try for crazy 60 foots/E.T.s with their "full weight"/loaded up with audio and other crap f bodies (I'm guessing for 'bragging rights'), and then wonder why they are breaking even very strong rear axles and such when they attempt their 1.5 or quicker 60 foots on wrinkle walls, with 500+ to the wheels in a 3900 pound car before their weight is added in.
I had a girdle, solid pinion spacer and the motive performance gear set and they whined bad after 2 1.8 60's m6 400whp no wheel hop. Breaking isn't the only failure if you can't stand to drive your car for more than a few minutes it whines so bad. So between the gear set, rebuild kit, girdle, pinion spacer I probably had $600 or so in it and got 2 passes before I knew I had to spend a couple grand and upgrade.
My takeaway from the info gathered here is a lot of false hope and a lot of people dumping money into an inadequate rear end. If you plan on taking your car to the strip the 10 bolt will fail or become abnoxiously noisy. Matter of only time.
I recommend getting a girdle and leaving the stock gear in there and save your money. When it breaks, upgrade to 9" or s60.
My takeaway from the info gathered here is a lot of false hope and a lot of people dumping money into an inadequate rear end. If you plan on taking your car to the strip the 10 bolt will fail or become abnoxiously noisy. Matter of only time.
I recommend getting a girdle and leaving the stock gear in there and save your money. When it breaks, upgrade to 9" or s60.
I wouldn't call it false hope. I'd call it reality. I'm surprised at your girdle enforced rear having issues after a 1.8 60' time, but it is an M6. Your example is real world experience so it's valuable information here though.
How many guys on the forum are pushing over 400rwhp? Not many from a percentage stand point. Which is why I don't think it's false hope. Seriously, there's auto guys hitting sub 1.5 (one under 1.4X) 60' times on the untouched rear axle; there's quite a few too. That's saying a lot about this axle.
That isn't the case for us M6 guys though. That TQ converter makes one hell of a difference here.
All that said, looking at the information provided, you are the exception not the rule.
#102
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seminole, FL
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've heard the same through forums. But haven't heard anything from first hand experience yet. Thanks for the input.
Thanks, added.
I do the same thing (bogging hard off the line and turning in really crappy 60' times) because I'm trying to go as gentle as possible on the rear axle.
This is the truest statement on here. The best performance mod anyone can to is make the car lighter. Mine is a DD and I use it to transport my kids occasionally so no lightening for me.... yet.
Thanks for the info. Added to the first post list.
I wouldn't call it false hope. I'd call it reality. I'm surprised at your girdle enforced rear having issues after a 1.8 60' time, but it is an M6. Your example is real world experience so it's valuable information here though.
How many guys on the forum are pushing over 400rwhp? Not many from a percentage stand point. Which is why I don't think it's false hope. Seriously, there's auto guys hitting sub 1.5 (one under 1.4X) 60' times on the untouched rear axle; there's quite a few too. That's saying a lot about this axle.
That isn't the case for us M6 guys though. That TQ converter makes one hell of a difference here.
All that said, looking at the information provided, you are the exception not the rule.
Thanks, added.
I do the same thing (bogging hard off the line and turning in really crappy 60' times) because I'm trying to go as gentle as possible on the rear axle.
This is the truest statement on here. The best performance mod anyone can to is make the car lighter. Mine is a DD and I use it to transport my kids occasionally so no lightening for me.... yet.
Thanks for the info. Added to the first post list.
I wouldn't call it false hope. I'd call it reality. I'm surprised at your girdle enforced rear having issues after a 1.8 60' time, but it is an M6. Your example is real world experience so it's valuable information here though.
How many guys on the forum are pushing over 400rwhp? Not many from a percentage stand point. Which is why I don't think it's false hope. Seriously, there's auto guys hitting sub 1.5 (one under 1.4X) 60' times on the untouched rear axle; there's quite a few too. That's saying a lot about this axle.
That isn't the case for us M6 guys though. That TQ converter makes one hell of a difference here.
All that said, looking at the information provided, you are the exception not the rule.
#103
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I guess I'll throw my 2cents in. I did 1.70 60' with a m6 car on a 10bolt. Many in the mid 1.7 range and all on either a nitto or m&h dr.
the main problem I had was breaking the drivers side axle. The car went 11.0@131 on the 10bolt.
drove a buddies bolt-on m6 car to 11.9@116 on the 10bolt to. I think I did a 1.76 60 with it.
the main problem I had was breaking the drivers side axle. The car went 11.0@131 on the 10bolt.
drove a buddies bolt-on m6 car to 11.9@116 on the 10bolt to. I think I did a 1.76 60 with it.
Last edited by HioSSilver; 10-29-2014 at 08:16 PM.
#104
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
But, on the flip side, most guys here (and lurkers) are in the less than 400rwhp club and most have automatics. They are fine with the 10 bolt with some re-enforcement.
This fear of absolute failure in the dinky 7.5" is exaggerated. It is a weak axle, but it is stronger than most lead on to believe. And for most guys here looking to replace the rear axle on their 350rwhp A4 DD on Street tires, they shouldn't. They should save that $3K and spend the $600 on re-enforcing the stock 10 bolt.
I guess I'll throw my 2cents in. I did 1.70 60' with a m6 car on a 10bolt. Many in the mid 1.7 range and all on either a nitto or m&h dr.
the main problem I had was breaking the drivers side axle. The car went 11.0@131 on the 10bolt.
drove a buddies bolt-on m6 car to 11.9@116 on the 10bolt to. I think I did a 1.76 60 with it.
the main problem I had was breaking the drivers side axle. The car went 11.0@131 on the 10bolt.
drove a buddies bolt-on m6 car to 11.9@116 on the 10bolt to. I think I did a 1.76 60 with it.
#105
12 Second Club
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Bucks County, Pa.
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would LOVE to do the same, as I do not have to worry about launches/60 foots/etc. like everyone else on here, and I am MUCH more concerned with turning/handling, especially on our lousy, bombed out roads here (which the IRS would help to stop the solid axle's skittering bump steer when on said craters in the middle of every turn here).
![Thumb](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/thumb.gif)
BUT, this is A LOT of engineering, AND fabrication to accomplish.
One needs to build a precise subframe, and consider; instant center, polar moment of inertia, anti-squat, camber gain, center of gravity, and at least ten other suspension geometry calculations.![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
I know at least one 4th gen f body owner has put a C4 IRS under his ride, but it was A LOT of work, and I do not know if he ever got it right.
The other advantage, IF one can accomplish this, besides the obvious stated above, is that then one does not have to bother with; Watts Links, lowered panhard bars, etc. to try and get a solid axle to turn left and right.
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
![Thumb](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/thumb.gif)
BUT, this is A LOT of engineering, AND fabrication to accomplish.
One needs to build a precise subframe, and consider; instant center, polar moment of inertia, anti-squat, camber gain, center of gravity, and at least ten other suspension geometry calculations.
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
I know at least one 4th gen f body owner has put a C4 IRS under his ride, but it was A LOT of work, and I do not know if he ever got it right.
The other advantage, IF one can accomplish this, besides the obvious stated above, is that then one does not have to bother with; Watts Links, lowered panhard bars, etc. to try and get a solid axle to turn left and right.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
#106
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 965
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I guess I'll throw my 2cents in. I did 1.70 60' with a m6 car on a 10bolt. Many in the mid 1.7 range and all on either a nitto or m&h dr.
the main problem I had was breaking the drivers side axle. The car went 11.0@131 on the 10bolt.
drove a buddies bolt-on m6 car to 11.9@116 on the 10bolt to. I think I did a 1.76 60 with it.
the main problem I had was breaking the drivers side axle. The car went 11.0@131 on the 10bolt.
drove a buddies bolt-on m6 car to 11.9@116 on the 10bolt to. I think I did a 1.76 60 with it.
#107
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: chats,ga
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
1.392 60ft with 3800 stall. Bone stock rear with 3.42 gears. 3200lb race weight and 28in dr's. Sprayin 100 shot out of the gate. Went 6.52@103 in the 1/8. Ive had 20 passes with 1.5 60ft. 3 in the 1.4s and its still goin strong.
#108
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
My car is just a full bolt-on ls6 that went 11.0@131. The car couldn't leave very hard do to the 10bolt.
my buddies 11.9 @ 116 car didn't even have headers and was on the stock tune.
all you gotta do is address the deficiencies and let them roll out.
#109
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
#110
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 965
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jus makin it right man ![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
My car is just a full bolt-on ls6 that went 11.0@131. The car couldn't leave very hard do to the 10bolt.
my buddies 11.9 @ 116 car didn't even have headers and was on the stock tune.
all you gotta do is address the deficiencies and let them roll out.
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
My car is just a full bolt-on ls6 that went 11.0@131. The car couldn't leave very hard do to the 10bolt.
my buddies 11.9 @ 116 car didn't even have headers and was on the stock tune.
all you gotta do is address the deficiencies and let them roll out.
#112
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey man I wanna be added!!
best 60 1.70 M6 car with 3.90 gears. It broke the ring gear on the next pass because I give it more throttle trying to get into the 10's. The r&p lasted through several lower 1.7 over quite a few years. I broke 3 axles with it before it finally gave up.
Pm me bud so we don't jack up the thread.
There would have to be like a 6000'da difference to make that much change. My track is not a fast track like cecil or atco.
best 60 1.70 M6 car with 3.90 gears. It broke the ring gear on the next pass because I give it more throttle trying to get into the 10's. The r&p lasted through several lower 1.7 over quite a few years. I broke 3 axles with it before it finally gave up.
There would have to be like a 6000'da difference to make that much change. My track is not a fast track like cecil or atco.
#113
12 Second Club
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Bucks County, Pa.
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
THIS HAS a lot to do with it!
I ran almost a 114 trap, on an almost perfect DA November night @ Atco, with; FULL SS size sticky fronts, 1LE front sway bar still connected, FULL functional emissions equipment, including factory catcons and factory manifolds, 4.10s and an Eaton Posi in the 10 bolt, 555R DRs, a lid, SLP 2OTL catback, 1/4 tank of fuel.
BUT, my car is not just a hard top, it is a LIGHT hard top with NO options (ordered it that way).![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
(This was back in the days when I actually cared what my car would do in a straight line.
)
I ran almost a 114 trap, on an almost perfect DA November night @ Atco, with; FULL SS size sticky fronts, 1LE front sway bar still connected, FULL functional emissions equipment, including factory catcons and factory manifolds, 4.10s and an Eaton Posi in the 10 bolt, 555R DRs, a lid, SLP 2OTL catback, 1/4 tank of fuel.
BUT, my car is not just a hard top, it is a LIGHT hard top with NO options (ordered it that way).
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
(This was back in the days when I actually cared what my car would do in a straight line.
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
#114
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey man I wanna be added!!
best 60 1.70 M6 car with 3.90 gears. It broke the ring gear on the next pass because I give it more throttle trying to get into the 10's. The r&p lasted through several lower 1.7 over quite a few years. I broke 3 axles with it before it finally gave up.
best 60 1.70 M6 car with 3.90 gears. It broke the ring gear on the next pass because I give it more throttle trying to get into the 10's. The r&p lasted through several lower 1.7 over quite a few years. I broke 3 axles with it before it finally gave up.
#115
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
THIS HAS a lot to do with it!
I ran almost a 114 trap, on an almost perfect DA November night @ Atco, with; FULL SS size sticky fronts, 1LE front sway bar still connected, FULL functional emissions equipment, including factory catcons and factory manifolds, 4.10s and an Eaton Posi in the 10 bolt, 555R DRs, a lid, SLP 2OTL catback, 1/4 tank of fuel.
BUT, my car is not just a hard top, it is a LIGHT hard top with NO options (ordered it that way).![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
(This was back in the days when I actually cared what my car would do in a straight line.
)
I ran almost a 114 trap, on an almost perfect DA November night @ Atco, with; FULL SS size sticky fronts, 1LE front sway bar still connected, FULL functional emissions equipment, including factory catcons and factory manifolds, 4.10s and an Eaton Posi in the 10 bolt, 555R DRs, a lid, SLP 2OTL catback, 1/4 tank of fuel.
BUT, my car is not just a hard top, it is a LIGHT hard top with NO options (ordered it that way).
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
(This was back in the days when I actually cared what my car would do in a straight line.
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
#116
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 965
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My 110mph pass was actually up in Bradenton. DA was about 1000ft. Pulling shitty 60fts on street tires so maybe giving up 1mph or so at the end there. But yeah typically here in Miami DA is around 1900-2400ft most of the year. Drops a lot in the winter but is still over 1000ft. Im sure weight also has something to do with Hios 116mph pass. Im trying to drop at least 100lbs from my car. It's my daily though so not much I can take out unfortunately.
PM sent
![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
#117
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This fear of absolute failure in the dinky 7.5" is exaggerated. It is a weak axle, but it is stronger than most lead on to believe. And for most guys here looking to replace the rear axle on their 350rwhp A4 DD on Street tires, they shouldn't. They should save that $3K and spend the $600 on re-enforcing the stock 10 bolt.
#118
11 Second Club
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: oklahoma
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have done some 1.48 60' lately. And 1.62's 200 times with my ss4000. Am currently looking for a new rear end. It think it will soon give out. I want to get a new one this winter.
#119
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 965
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just started by 10 bolt build today. The initial build is going to consist of the following:
-Motive 3.90 gears
-Motive rebuild kit with new bearings, seals, and gaskets.
-LPW girdle cover
-Welded axle tubes
Will update when the build is done and will post 60fts and ETs once I get out to the track.
-Motive 3.90 gears
-Motive rebuild kit with new bearings, seals, and gaskets.
-LPW girdle cover
-Welded axle tubes
Will update when the build is done and will post 60fts and ETs once I get out to the track.
![Burnout](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_burnout.gif)
Also, stay far far away from the motive master rebuild kits, and pinion installation kits. Master kit came with wrong/not enough shims, and both kits came with the wrong pinion seal. Never buying anything from Motive again.
#120
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Took way longer than expected because of course nothing ever goes smoothly but I finally got the new rear finished up a couple days ago with all the parts listed above. Half way through the break in period. Once I get it broken in I'll be out to the track on the next nice weather test n tune day. I'll update with results. Hopefully it holds! ![Burnout](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_burnout.gif)
Also, stay far far away from the motive master rebuild kits, and pinion installation kits. Master kit came with wrong/not enough shims, and both kits came with the wrong pinion seal. Never buying anything from Motive again.
![Burnout](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_burnout.gif)
Also, stay far far away from the motive master rebuild kits, and pinion installation kits. Master kit came with wrong/not enough shims, and both kits came with the wrong pinion seal. Never buying anything from Motive again.