8.8 build
What's an entry level S60 run? I PM'd you back too.
Rear from yard $120
Shipping to TNT $80
Carbon clutches $120
Rear diff cover $120
New axle bearings n seals $50
TNT fab work $585
Moser axles $405
Fluid n stuff $50
BTW the $405.11 price was also with ARP factory size studs already pressed in.
The rear looks good and is a definite improvement in size and strength. The 8.8 next to the 10 bolt carrier makes the 10 bolt ring gear look kinda like my wifes wedding ring. lol
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
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cheap and plentiful , its only a matter of time with so many people going the 8.8 route before one of the major rear end vendors meets this need with some type of fab 8.8 housing designed for the torque arm from the get go. Add a junkyard diff and gears and some decent axles and it would be plenty strong for 90% of the cars on here. The "single digit" guys have plenty of options already....
12 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
From: Bucks County, Pa.
cheap and plentiful , its only a matter of time with so many people going the 8.8 route before one of the major rear end vendors meets this need with some type of fab 8.8 housing designed for the torque arm from the get go. Add a junkyard diff and gears and some decent axles and it would be plenty strong for 90% of the cars on here. The "single digit" guys have plenty of options already....
(I WISH!)IF they made the torque arm mount strong/'bombproof' enough, I WOULD go this route since then I could use the excellent, high bias, Ford Racing Torsen T2R diff (they stopped making these for our 10 bolts, and they NEVER made them for any of the bigger/stronger axle set ups
). cheap and plentiful , its only a matter of time with so many people going the 8.8 route before one of the major rear end vendors meets this need with some type of fab 8.8 housing designed for the torque arm from the get go. Add a junkyard diff and gears and some decent axles and it would be plenty strong for 90% of the cars on here. The "single digit" guys have plenty of options already....
Thread Starter
On The Tree
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 188
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From: Lawrenceville, Ga
8.8 I put the carbon clutches in mine also.
The cheapest place I found the clutch pack is on ebay from a Ford Dealer.
They are....gyeomansford.... It was $95 shipped.
The cheapest place I found the clutch pack is on ebay from a Ford Dealer.
They are....gyeomansford.... It was $95 shipped.
Install update on fitment. As with many larger rear diffs there is some contact between the torque arm and the floor pan tunnel above it when using a bigger aftermarket arm instead of the flimsy stock one. Im using a full length BMR adjustable arm and I had to cut off some material on the top of the torque arm bracket to allow me to use the inner bolt holes for mounting. The edge of the bracket was hitting the weld radius on top where the Hitsy bracket was welded to the pumpkin. Between using the inner holes to mount the arm and using an adjustable pan hard rod to truly center the rear at ride height this should allow enough room on a stock height car without having to beat the tunnel in. I cant say for sure just yet as Im ordering the panhard rod today but it should be enough. If not only minimal massaging of the tunnel will be needed.
TNT said on their FB page that they're planning on a level 2 8.8 with the big 9" ends. I am interested in see that. The only thing that worries me is the 8.8 is notorious for bending and anyone going faster than 10's braces them. I don't know if there is room to brace it in an fbody with a torque arm and PHB.
TNT said on their FB page that they're planning on a level 2 8.8 with the big 9" ends. I am interested in see that. The only thing that worries me is the 8.8 is notorious for bending and anyone going faster than 10's braces them. I don't know if there is room to brace it in an fbody with a torque arm and PHB.
this setup is half that and comes with a lsd. solid for 10s-12s and not having to worry.
if your running low 9's chances are an extra grand or so wont break your bank as you have already spent a fair amount to do so.
I gotta find time to pull the 10 bolt out of my other car and cut the axle tubes. picked up a 3:73 lsd 8.8 for $150
cheap and plentiful , its only a matter of time with so many people going the 8.8 route before one of the major rear end vendors meets this need with some type of fab 8.8 housing designed for the torque arm from the get go. Add a junkyard diff and gears and some decent axles and it would be plenty strong for 90% of the cars on here. The "single digit" guys have plenty of options already....
JRENIGAR post shows what will be the biggest issue, making contact between floor and torque arm bracket. This was a huge issue with the stamped nine inch that customers did not care for. We had a customers vehicle in last week with the typical bashed floor from being dropped and stamped nine inch.
If there was a need for the 8.8 housing for different applications on top of the already proven options on the market they'd done it years ago an trust me the big guys already looked into it. Not to mention we have 8.8 rear ends in the shop constantly with twisted axle tubes or bent being fixed from light weight 10-12 second Mustangs.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 188
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From: Lawrenceville, Ga
8.8 When I bought my roller car the person that had it before me had one of those over priced rear ends in this car. So the tunnel was already beat up.
So far I have no fitment issues. Not saying that I might not down the road.
Time will tell.
So far I have no fitment issues. Not saying that I might not down the road.
Time will tell.
Ok, I ran into an issue and I need some help. The stock pinion yoke is the explorer type and isnt a 1350 that I think I need. Is it better to order an aftermarket 1350 size pinion flange and take ds measurements once that is installed? Another option is just buy the aftermarket 1350 size pinion yoke and keep using the factory type setup with the four bolts that connect the yoke and flange together? What ds/yoke combo is needed to safely put down 650rwhp or so in a street car that sees very little track use? Need to order some stuff today. I have a dyno app next thursday.
I don't know if this helps but the Exploder yoke is a 1330 series joint. I found the 1330 rated at 1800 ft-lbs. and the 1350 rated at 2200 ft.-lbs. (breaking strength). Seems to me the 1330 would last a long time in a street car that does not see the track much.
In any vehicle that you plan on using for more than Sunday drives you don't want to use a conversion U-Joint, a pinion flange, or grease-able U-joint. These are all weak points that can cause failure.
Keep in mind HP numbers are not the number one cause of breakage but abuse is. If it was HP that killed items such items we wouldn't see broken driveshafts and 8.8's out of moms explorer all those years when JR took it offroading.
Keep in mind HP numbers are not the number one cause of breakage but abuse is. If it was HP that killed items such items we wouldn't see broken driveshafts and 8.8's out of moms explorer all those years when JR took it offroading.