What's your driveshaft?
#1
What's your driveshaft?
So I got all my new suspension on my car with new poly mounts on the trans. I went to a short torque arm and now I have developed a horrible vibration at 55 and above. It sounds horrible. My angle is -1.5 and I have had this same exact setup on another car and it did nothing like my current car is. The only thing I can think of is the steel driveshaft was out of balanced and with all the stock 157k mile parts the vibration was being absorbed by all that. I changed the u joints and stayed the same.
So I am thinking of upgrading the driveshaft and hope that remedies the issue. I have 600-650 rwhp that's mostly full weight. Auto car. Is there any other options than the $400 3.5 PST shaft? Aluminum be fine over the steel?
So I am thinking of upgrading the driveshaft and hope that remedies the issue. I have 600-650 rwhp that's mostly full weight. Auto car. Is there any other options than the $400 3.5 PST shaft? Aluminum be fine over the steel?
#2
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Stock steel? If it is you need to upgrade regardless. A local shop can build you a stronger version for probably half the PST cost in steel or chromoly. I went with a PST because I wanted to stay aluminum, there are no competent shops close to home, and for call/ship/deliver convenience.
#5
Let's be honest here it isn't like PST is over priced for their driveshafts. What most don't look at or understand is a cheaper driveshaft is generally cheaper because it is thinner wall and lesser quality components. Most shops do not have the capability to high speed balance a shaft. When it comes to driveshafts you get what you pay for.
Don't learn this lesson the hard way.
Don't learn this lesson the hard way.
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Let's be honest here it isn't like PST is over priced for their driveshafts. What most don't look at or understand is a cheaper driveshaft is generally cheaper because it is thinner wall and lesser quality components. Most shops do not have the capability to high speed balance a shaft. When it comes to driveshafts you get what you pay for.
Don't learn this lesson the hard way.
Don't learn this lesson the hard way.
#7
If you consider what a broken driveshaft will cost you in repairs it will cost more than the purchase price of a quality driveshaft. Carbon shafts shatter instead of bouncing off everything under your vehicle.
Why we are talking driveshafts a little advice for anyone. When jacking up your vehicle and have a driveshaft safety loop or exhaust near your shaft do not let your rear end hang and put the driveshaft in contact with the loop or exhaust.
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#8
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I've had several buddies break stock driveshafts, so I understand the effects of it. The point I was trying to make was not that PST is overpriced (and I didn't state that either), but that there are cheaper options. At the bare minimum he could select steel or chromoly and save some money while still being as strong.....That, was my point. He may not be familiar with all the offerings out there and their prices. Another option that most don't know about is an Inland Empire 3" aluminum shaft. It is 120 wall however retains stock sized ujoints. If one of those popped up, and he combined it with a Precision 234 solid u joint he could have another budget option for cheaper then other options but stronger then stock. I ran one for several years then sold it here for well below retail when I purchased a PST from Brute Speed.
#9
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http://shop.brutespeed.com/PST-DRS3-...e-PST-DRS3.htm
The PST 3" steel driveshaft with forged yoke and 1350 u joints in the above link will get you a strong driveshaft that isn't as expensive. Bob
The PST 3" steel driveshaft with forged yoke and 1350 u joints in the above link will get you a strong driveshaft that isn't as expensive. Bob
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Hmm, that's strange. I just tried it twice and it worked both times. I'll have to try it from another computer. Thanks! Bob
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A carbonfiber driveshaft is a hard pill to swallow but a driveshaft that is built for performance and safety isn't. All though a carbonfiber driveshaft is expensive it is the best choice for a driveshaft.
If you consider what a broken driveshaft will cost you in repairs it will cost more than the purchase price of a quality driveshaft. Carbon shafts shatter instead of bouncing off everything under your vehicle.
Why we are talking driveshafts a little advice for anyone. When jacking up your vehicle and have a driveshaft safety loop or exhaust near your shaft do not let your rear end hang and put the driveshaft in contact with the loop or exhaust.
If you consider what a broken driveshaft will cost you in repairs it will cost more than the purchase price of a quality driveshaft. Carbon shafts shatter instead of bouncing off everything under your vehicle.
Why we are talking driveshafts a little advice for anyone. When jacking up your vehicle and have a driveshaft safety loop or exhaust near your shaft do not let your rear end hang and put the driveshaft in contact with the loop or exhaust.
Also, a cf drive shaft will damp any vibrations and harmonics that a DOM steel/chromoly/alloy drive shaft CANNOT.
IF I had the grand they cost laying around, I would buy one today!
GREAT point about the close fitting drive shaft safety loops above.
#13
Years of experience dailydriver I've had years learning from my mistakes or others. You'd be shocked how many driveshafts get ruined from supporting the weight of a rear end while hitting the driveshaft loop. Could be a cause of drivetrain vibrations.
#15
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I rather spend 450 bucks on a driveshaft that I can DRIVE to the track, LAUNCH at 5000 plus rpm OVER AND OVER then DRIVE back home in peace than to have a wrecker truck tow my car home with a expensive tow bill.
Nothing like reliability when the smoke clears
Nothing like reliability when the smoke clears
Last edited by Tuskyz28; 11-22-2015 at 08:48 AM.
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#19
I went from a Strange CM to a PST carbonshaft and saved I think 7 pounds if memory serves me right using the same Strange slip yoke. The Strange driveshafts are nice units also. I had zero issues I just wanted the lesser rotating weight.