Driveshaft recommendation
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 917
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From: Traverse City MI
Thank you so much launch, I think I'm getting it. I had my car set up like the second picture, parelel. No I'm setting it up so pinions pointing down instead of up.
11 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2003
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I have the car on my 2 post lift right now. I raised the transmission as high as I could with out being in contact with the floor. Engine/trans is still sloped down 3*. I can't get the engine and trans sitting at 0* in this car.
So the transmission slip yoke is pointing down 3*, or -3* the driveshaft runs at 0* to my pinion that's pointing up +3 right now.
Your saying I should have the slip yoke/driveshaft running at the same -3* as the engine/trans to the pinion at 0*?
So the transmission slip yoke is pointing down 3*, or -3* the driveshaft runs at 0* to my pinion that's pointing up +3 right now.
Your saying I should have the slip yoke/driveshaft running at the same -3* as the engine/trans to the pinion at 0*?
11 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2003
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Yes I think it will fix your vibration. If not then you need to assume there's something out of wack with your rear end or the transmission itself, rear end is always more likely
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 917
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From: Traverse City MI
Right now the trans is pointed down 3.5 and pinion is down 2. The vibrations still there, but it moved it higher in the mph it feels like. Should I try putting the pinion back up to 0 or lower it even more to -3 or -4?
11 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2003
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Im outta ideas man. Without seeing it in person I can't get a grasp of how your driveline angles are exactly. You could try point the pinion down further but im starting to think the issue is elsewhere. What rear axle do you have? And how old is it?
Sure it's not rear wheel balance issue?
Sure it's not rear wheel balance issue?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 917
Likes: 77
From: Traverse City MI
The rear axle is a gm 8.5" with new moser axles, new bearings and a trutrac. 4.30 motive gears. I just pulled the diff out to install the new 1350 pinion yoke and set the pinion pre load. everything in the rear appears good? I ran it on jack stands with now wheels tires or brake drums with no difference.
I guess I'll just spend some time moving the pinion around tomorrow.
I guess I'll just spend some time moving the pinion around tomorrow.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 917
Likes: 77
From: Traverse City MI
I don't think my vibration is a driveshaft/pinion angle issue. Just tore into my t56 and I have the loose 5-6 gear on the main shaft. Thank you everyone for the help.
11 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2003
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My tire shop couldn't even balance my Weld wheels because they didn't have the proper 5 lug attachment to clamp them down for balancing, they didn't understand how these wheels should be balanced, they were spinning them up and telling me they're bent as **** and to send them back, but I read the Weld Racing instructions and I knew the tire place don't know wtf is going on.. So I just took them and ran them on the car as is and without any balancing my car still feels 100% winding the speedometer right over.
If you repair your T56 and still have the vibration, all it could be left is something wrong with your pinion yoke, maybe it's been machined off center.. you never know these days. Personally I'd only run either a genuine Spicer, or a Strange or MW chromoly pinion yoke.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 917
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From: Traverse City MI
Ya, this driveline vibe has been frustrating to say the least but I think This is the problem.
I dont think the pinion yoke is bad, I had a new spicer on my 8.5" when I rebuilt it a year or so ago, and I just installed a chromoly strange 1350 pinion yoke with no change.
I dont think the pinion yoke is bad, I had a new spicer on my 8.5" when I rebuilt it a year or so ago, and I just installed a chromoly strange 1350 pinion yoke with no change.
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 204
Likes: 8
From: Houston
If that is the case then that is what I will try. However, I am running a non adjustable 4 link, and not sure how to make the proper adjustments that I might need. Any help is appreciated.
Forgive my ignorance here, but what all components and aspects are taken into consideration when picking out/choosing a driveshaft? I've seen 3", 3.5", steel, aluminum, carbon fiber, the weight of the car, etc..
Why are some drive shafts not recommended for street cars?
Would spinning around a steel DS be noticeably slower/more work than aluminum or CF? Or is that mainly splitting hairs for true track cars and not a consideration for street cars?
Sorry for the loaded post. Just curious about the world of drive shafts.
Why are some drive shafts not recommended for street cars?
Would spinning around a steel DS be noticeably slower/more work than aluminum or CF? Or is that mainly splitting hairs for true track cars and not a consideration for street cars?
Sorry for the loaded post. Just curious about the world of drive shafts.