Fastazzcamaro98

Does anyone have any experience with the Ultimate 7.5 axle girdle and brace from LPW? It looks like a pretty good system and seems beefy but I want to know about some real world testing or some hardcore 60' times. I emailed the company but haven't heard anything back yet.

ElkySS

iTrader: (6)

I broke 3 ten bolts. All of them broke the diff. They all had a similar girdle on them. This is a band aid at best.

Fastazzcamaro98

What were u running for gears and carrier? Do you have any pictures of the damage?

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

The ring and pinion in the 7.5 10 bolt is just too small, you can throw a lot of money at them and they still break. Automatics are easily on parts and the 10 bolt survives longer than they do behind a manual transmission. Bob

Fastazzcamaro98

Thats the biggest problem is im running a manual car. I have been reading up about the 8.8 conversion and I am going to go that route

ElkySS

iTrader: (6)

I was running 4.10s on all three. The first one, I broke the spider gears. The last 2 were torsens and I broke all the diff gears on both of those.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

The brace is dsigned to keep the axle tubes from flexing. The same thing can and has been done by welding the tubes to center section. It helps keepthe ring and pinion in good contact with one another, but you're still band-aiding a weak design. I thought about it a lot too several years ago. If I was going to go throug the time, effort and money I would just weld the tubes in. The system isn't a bad idea,but pretty elaborate and expensive for something that can never solve the real problem.

Fastazzcamaro98

I decided to sacrifice a Ford explorer and build an 8.8. contacted Moser and they said it would be no problem getting me 31 spline axles to work with my factory 7.5 tubes and 8.8 center

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

With an 8.8 you are still going to want to run a rear diff cover with a brace and weld the axle tubes. We build a lot of 8.8 for Mustangs and it is the only way they survive in that chassis. The added torque arm of a F-body is a lot of stress in just the center of the housing this is what distorts the rear end and what happened to Elkyss with his three broken differentials.

Fastazzcamaro98

Thank you for the advice I will be sure to do that. I was thinking of eliminating that center torque arm and running the mini ladder bar set up. I have read a few good threads about it and it seems to work pretty slick.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Man I have not heard anyone mention the mini ladderbar set up by running the arms back to the lower control arms. I can tell you that you will hate it as it is extremely violent of a launch to the point I had customers do it and they said the rear end would bunny hop off the line.

Fastazzcamaro98

O ok that doesn't sound good, what's my best option then just run the girdle and axle supports and box in the pinion area on the 8.8 for strength and to accept the stock torque arm?

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

I can't give you advice on a 8.8 build as I've had to many customers give me negative feedback after going through the steps of building one. Just sold a rear end today to a customer getting rid of his 8.8 because of issues.

That makes six this year just replacing their 8.8.