So I decided to get rid of a little annoying issue with my exhaust touching the DSL loop. I didn't jack the car up. Just reached under, put a few more washers to space it down and went. Well I noticed on my test drive the exhaust was not longer contacting the crossmember of the DSL.

But I heard a ting ting noise. A new noise.

So I got home and adjusted the DSL. Ran it for a min and revved to see if I could locate the noise. Unsatisfied with that, I jacked it up. My adjustment had made it worse by pulling it closer to the driver side.

When I jacked it up, I was able to get my fingers on the top of the loop and found it was basically touching the driveshaft on the passenger side (my blindspot when it wasn't jacked up).

I saw a faint line around the driveshaft and found a small amount of metal dust. But I could not catch my fingernail on the visible line. So it was not grooved.

Do you think the driveshaft is okay? It's a heavy wall 3.5" aluminum shaft. It didn't get hot. And only made contact a couple of times at low speed from what I could tell.

I recentered it. And it has clearance. Not a ton. But it's cleared on both sides and on top. I need to pull it back up, but then it'll hit the Kooks True Duals. So I may swap to a new DSL to avoid the issue.

Lesson - don't shortcut things.

 

Ordered a MWC tunnel DSL loop to avoid the issue with either touching the exhaust or the driveshaft.

 

The MWC piece is very nice, but i had issues with mine not fitting right. I sold it to get a BMR one and wish I didn't. even at stock height the BMR will scrape on slight inclines.

 

Thanks for your order you won't be disappointed. Keep in mind the loop goes behind your fuel lines to be bolted up properly. Most do not do this and think it doesn't fit properly.

Here is an installed picture directly from our web site to show proper fitment with plenty of ground clearance.

 

Welp, that was my issue before lol. Now I know for when I order a new one from you guys.

 

Ah okay. So just move the fuel lines back and slide/finagle it in?

Looks like I'll have to push the torque arm down along with sliding the driveshaft out.

Fun times.

 

It's the most common issue we have with installation. We are slowly working on now getting install instructions for most of our items.

 

Yes sir unhook the lines slide it behind them and tighten them back in place.

 

Okay. Good to know!

Thanks a lot.

 

On my mwc break in , I rubbed mine on my loop as well. I thought the noise were my rear brakes because they were new and had a rough time getting caliper on disc . So I just thought my pads were rubbing down. Find out later my pst got grooved pretty good. I took it to a ds shop where they sanded it and checked the depth of the gouge. It looked real bad but he came back and said some small number and that he checked and it balanced out ok. Pst 3.5 inch uses 120 wall. All.fine but still sucks

 

Yeah, mine didn't groove. So I think it's okay.

DSS uses 120 wall as well.

 

I haven't got under there to look. But are there body mounts that hold the line? Can I just unbolt those and pull the line away from the tunnel enough to slide this in? Or is it move involved?

And when I unbolt the ujoint straps, should I replace those? I always have since it's like $5-6 for them but didn't know if it was needed.

 

Unbolt what is needed and slide it behind them and bolt everything back in place. As for hardware replacing I have a habit of always buying new no matter if they where used or not. May be a bad habit but it is a habit I have done my entire life.

 

That really is a nice DSL it is obvious it will work excellent!

Carl Loder