LukeDowning

got some noise in my rear end that I think is bearings.
im wanting to rebuild it this winter and I cant afford the $3k+ for a good 12 bolt or 9" setup yet.
so I need to work with what I have.


im planning on putting 3.73 while im at it and am thinking of going with Moser Axles as well.
is it worth it to put the Moser axles in it? think they are about $300 for a set if I remember right for just replacement axles.
wanted to get your alls opinion on weather it was worth spending the money on.

DANSBIRD

iTrader: (2)

Midwest Chassis offers a layaway plan... just something to consider.

dannyz

If your car has an A4 trans, rebuild it.
If your an M6 now is the time for a better rear

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

^^^ that !

LukeDowning

it is an A4 car yes

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Do you plan on adding more power?

LukeDowning

at some point I do plan to add more power but it will be a while before I get to that point. hopefully then ill be able to put in a good rear
but for now I have to work with what I have

dannyz

Unless your getting "Freaky" power wise, your 10 bolt will be fine.
Put a girdle on it after the rebuild and don't worry about it.

themealonwheels

iTrader: (20)

But if you delay getting an upgraded rear in the distant future, it will cost you ~$600 between the axles, bearings and gears. If your 10 bolt were fine, I'd say leave it. But since you're looking to touch it, I'll tell you, it's not worth it.

I've personally gone both ways, built a 10 bolt and bought a built S60. Looking back, that 10 bolt was a waste, and I never got anything out of it when it came time to give it up. Well, actually, it did alright holding the roller off the ground...

I'd wait til Black Friday and save some cash for a new one. You're only a couple months away.

dannyz

Nah. Rebuild it and use the money saved for other mods.
I am still on the 10 bolt, and its handling 500+rwhp.
A quality rebuild and he will be fine.

Tuskyz28

Quick performance offers a 9 inch for a 1000 dollars...

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

Rebuild it. Mine has been behind an M6 on the street with heads and cam, and it's given me many trouble free years. If it's built right, and you don't utterly abuse it, you shouldn't have a problem, and it's much cheaper.

Mine sounded like a jet engine spooling up, so I had it rebuilt with all new bearings, went with Motive 3.73's, and left everything else stock. I even have the stock cover, and I really don't see the need of a girdle or aftermarket axles, they just add cost.

dojob

Only the housing and axles for thats

+3rd member
+diff
+housing ends
+other odds and ends

$3000 + all said and done

Yes, still good price and money spent. Only if you're going to need it or use it.

DANSBIRD

iTrader: (2)

I bought my T/A (M6) new and after 228k miles and putting down 460 rwhp, it still has the 10-bolt in it. All I've had to really do is replace the carrier bearings in it. However, I do have a 9" ordered. The saving grace for the 10-bolt has been tires. If you want it to last, let the tires be the weak link.

cam

iTrader: (9)

If you beat on it? Your wasting time and money on the 10 bolt even stock. Ive been breaking these craptastic diffs for a a looooooong time. Long before LS power, heck stock TPI power breaks them.

But if you are only cruising around on street tires that are not sticky? The stocker is fine. Anyone whos running any real tire under the car with a stock ten and running it hard? Breaks them, often. Countless threads on here about it

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

My experience has been different. With an auto, I wouldn't worry too much about it as long as you can control wheel hop and aren't building a dedicated race car. I'm not sure what you define as a sticky tire, but I did dozens of passes on the track (and equally hard street launches) on DRs in the 1.6x range over the course of several years with one of my stock 7.5" rears behind a 4L60E/3500 stall. No issues at all at stock 4th gen weight.

I don't think my experience was the exception either, it's actually more the rule. Here's a great thread that shows some averages:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...ock-7-5-a.html

As you can see, it's a different world for the M6 cars. But the stock 7.5" just isn't that bad behind and A4 in most cases.

As for stock TPI cars, they are very low 14s at best (L98/A4) so if you're breaking their rears at stock power with an auto, then the rear was probably heavily worn/high mileage and/or wheel hop was an issue.

cam

iTrader: (9)

Personal experience speaks for both of us and others have similar in both directions. In my case the breakages were all with a stick, i think, its been some time now. I do know of plenty who broke with autos as well as I made them a new diff

From what I have seen in terms of carnage the tens fare much better with 3.42 or smaller gears. 3.55 and up the pinion gets awful small and aftermarket torque arms put a lot of strain on the pumpkin which flexes them and coupled with hard driving they break, a lot there is plenty of carnage threads. Plus 28 spline is no screaming hell either, ive twisted 31's and bigger in truck applications and c-clips are not the safest so theres many reasons the ten bolt sucks.

Driver and road conditions are the biggest factors. One pothole and sticky tires under full power will cause hella damage to any diff, let alone a ten bolt. A lot of roads in Mexico are bumpy and often tested at night so cant always see and well...

Plus there is NOTHING worse than blowing a diff and locking up the rear in the middle of the road. Aside from getting busted its dangerous and expensive re tow and no fun at all.

Imo anyone spending a dime on a ten bolt is wasting money, but it is merely my opinion, y'all can do whatever ya wanna do with your time and money.

Rick01SS

My stock 10 bolt lasted over 100 1.6* 60ft passes with A4 trans. I started cutting 1.5* 60's and it lasted 8 passes and took the trans out with it. I bought a used 10 bolt to hopefully get me through the season and Black Friday MWC sale.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

FWIW

A friend of mine has destroyed about a dozen 10-bolt rear ends most of them on the street in TPI 3rd Gen's. Auto or stick he'll break a 10-bolt. Most of the issue is overly aggressive driver that ends up getting wheel hop. The 3.73's and 4.10's ones seldom lasted more than a few months.

My 99TA had 418 whp with 4.10's and is a six speed. The rear never broke. It was replaced this year with 155,000 on it. It slips like a jet taking off on the highway. Hawk's 8.8 was the replacement.

The old 10-bolt got rebuild for another car, new bearings, cheater bears on the axles and the OEM 3.42 stock gears - cost $800

Another 4th gen at the same shop didn't need axles bearings or gears and got out for $550. He had bolt on 4L60e and stock gears and 138,000 miles

My 91 RS Convertible had to have carrier & pinion bearings at 110,000 miles. 125 whp with a 305 700r4 and the car has always been babyied.

My white 91 RS went 389,500 miles on the 10-bolt - no issues
305 TBI - 700r4 and 138whp

10-bolt are randomly good or randomly bad in my experience.
However an aggressive driver will quickly destroy any 10-bolt if the car has any traction and wheel hop.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

It's less about random, more about usage conditions (including wheel hop which, other than general age/wear or poor setup, is the only primary killer for mild A4 examples.)