SpecialGreg412

iTrader: (1)

Ive tried to do a fair amount of searching before i post this question, but in the end i could not find much.

Background:
My 10 bolt has been on the way out for the past few years but still hasnt given up the ghost.

Proactively, I am looking to purchase a Ford 9" for my 2001 trans am m6 and i have heard many people say that quick performance offers a quality rear end, especially for the money.

I was looking at getting 4.11 eaton posi with 35 spline axels, with the thru bolt moser aluminum chunk. I currently have viking double adjustable coilovers, adjust. pan hard bar, adjust. torque arm w/ relocated adjust. tunnel brace, upgraded lower control arms and in the next year or two i am planning on putting together a blown ls3, so around 650-700 ponies.

Question:
I was wondering if the Quick Performances Fab. 9" is worth it over their new stamped housing. Their fab unit is currently only 100$ more than their reconditioned housing and the same price as a new stamped unit. I haven't heard much on the quality of the Fab 9" except from their sales techs and was hoping to hear some input from anyone that has the Fab 9" or can speak from experience.


Thank you everyone for you time.

Bspeck82

I bought one a few days ago waiting for it to be shipped. From what I understand when I talked to Mike, its a lighter unit that is reinforced where it matters most and looks much better. I was told by an employee over the phone, can't remember his name but yes, I called them like 7 times asking questions before ordering, that it has internal gusseting that makes for a stronger housing. When I bought mine I pretended I was making 650 wheel and he recommended that with the Yukon nodular iron carrier (its stronger than the strange unit they sell for the same $$$) he said 3.89s make more noise generally than the others, aluminum Daytona is recommended over iron. Will fit better than a moser but still need to cut part of the TA bracket. Truetrac highly recommended over trac loc.

SpecialGreg412

iTrader: (1)

I talked to mike also and that seemed to be the general consensus, it is stronger where it counts and lighter. Im not too concerned with the 12 or so lbs that it will save, im much more concerned with the fitment under the body and overall the strength. I was made aware that i will need to trim my torque arm, which is no problem, but i really dont want to be cutting into my sheet metal if there are major clearance issues.

another issue i was pondering was if i should order the back brace that they offer, i dont think ill ever be making more than 800hp but a felt that a little more torsional and bending rigidity can never be a bad thing.

Bspeck82

For sure, it wouldn't be a bad thing but it is a pricey option. It wont be a major issue unless you plan on running slicks and a transbrake. At that point youd rock 35 spline axles and a spool so it wouldnt be a good daily driver anymore. I was told muliple times that there would be NO fitment issues. But I did tell them I have no plans to lower the car. Are you lowered and how much?

SpecialGreg412

iTrader: (1)

i am lowered about 1 inch all the way around, im fine with busting out the hammer if i need 1/4" here or there

Bspeck82

Hmm dunno call them up and ask. Only they would know. Ask for Mike. They told me it fits better then the moser.

SpecialGreg412

iTrader: (1)

Update:

Gave QP a call and spoke with Max, he was extremely helpful.

He convinced me that with a lowered fbody, there will be minor clearance issues with the center section where the torque arm meets between both the Stamped housing and their fab 9", he said that there should be no need to cut into the sheet metal and that a big hammer should help massage out some clearance. The larger issue is cutting back some material on the TA but thats not problem at all.

He also helped me determine that while a back brace may not be needed for motor under 700hp, it is always recommended to help stiffen and increase the rigidity of the unit. I chose to get it and have that extra level of peace of mind

I just put my order in for the Fab 9" unit and Max said the turn around will be around two weeks normally but considering the new year is right around the corner, i expect it to be here before the end of the first week of January

At that point ill be getting it powder coated and then start the install.
if anyone has any interest i can put together a new post about the install or just about the fab 9" until when i receive it

Thanks for your input Bspeck and good luck on your build!!!!

Bspeck82

Thanks same to you.

Bspeck82

Where are you getting your driveshaft from?

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

I do know we sell a ton of our two piece race arms to people who purchase that stamped style housing. It takes a little work to do the install but a lot easier than the alternative which is cutting a good size portion of flooring out to make it fit with out our two piece race arm.

We had a customers vehicle in here this year that chose a stamped style rear end and did not want to change arms but instead we heavily modified the floor to work. He does drag week and could not stand the contact it made with the floor for another season thus why he had us cut the floor out and make room for the torque arm he already had fit.

Midwest Chassis Two Piece Race Arm

SpecialGreg412

iTrader: (1)

I havent done any research to find out what driveshaft im gonna go with yet but that will be my next step bspeck

And midwest, if that is the case, i will have to keep that two piece arm in mind,although 500$ for a TA is a lot on top of the 9" but id rather spend that then cut up my floor. Im hoping i can make room without spending money or at the very least, find it used

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

That is the biggest problem with any stamped housing going into a F-Body unless it is mounted how we mount it onto our fabricated housing. To use a stock style torque on a stamped housing you have to move the pinion towards the passenger side and the torque arm has to be moved towards the drivers side and as everyone knows an aftermarket torque arm bracket on a stock 10-bolt is tight tolerances. Now imagine how tight it is once the torque arm is moved roughly a 1/2 inch towards the driver side. It also puts the drive shaft closer to any type of driveshaft safety loop because the pinion is moved roughly a 1/2 inch towards the passenger side.