This is on a 2002 F Body. I searched and searched and could not find much info. I had a Spohn torque arm and had to hack their bracket up to fit the QP bracket and still had tunnel contact event with several BFH sessions.
Finally bit the bullet and bought the MWC Pro Arm, should have done this the first time. Never enough money to do it right but always enough to do it over.
I purchased the Arm, the tabs and the front link, I fabricated my own crossmember.

I am happy with the install and hopefully it removes the clunking I had with the old arm. ( the bad clunking ended up being my panhard bar which was spohn too.. I replaced with a MWC and no more noise!)
My only reservation is I currently have 1.5' driveshaft angle which is what I was running before so should be fine, but not much more adjustment so if I need more will have to figure that out..
Is the front link to the top hole - think this shortens my IC compared to the Spohn so we will see how that reacts.

So here we go.. ( no comments on my welding please)
It is at least 14k gold under that powder coating I think...


I started with the bottom of the differential.
The MWC rearend is flat where the tabs mount, the QP is rounded.
I added some material to one of the tabs so they would be the same position.
I should have mounted them to a piece of angle like I did the top mount so see those pics and try that.
I cut off both stock tabs and mounted the inner tab to the outside of the outer bracket weld. This gave me clearance to driveshaft and tunnel



laid out my tabs on the crossmember and welded - if you buy their crossmember you probably want to start there and align tabs on bottom of diff

Then the upper tabs - I removed the gas tank and did it all from up top...
Welded them to a piece of angle and then cut a leg off to get a nice level mount on the rearend
Again I cut off both tabs and ended up welding on top of the outboard weld to get alignment



And some pics of overall clearance and alignment

 

Looks good. No offense to anyone but the MWC 9" setup is the only one that makes sense to me. No torque arm and adapter sandwich.

 

Great job, wish I had known about this before ordering my QP9. I have a few questions if you don't mind, is that the short arm? Is it the race version or regular? Also did you by any chance weigh the mwc arm?

My Spohn arm and adapter is about 33 pounds, which is too much, need to do something different. Thanks!

 

Yep this is the short arm, the race version. I did not weigh the arm but there is a pretty significant weight difference in just the QP and Spohn mount bracket.
It did indeed take care of popping when moving around the driveway and low speeds and now has plenty of space in the tunnel. I still have a significant thunk when changing gears with no load. Not sure yet if that is the front pivot link or the driveshaft, feels like it is in the floor so guessing the pivot link. My shifts are pretty harsh though so that doesn't help.

 

How are you liking that so far?? I just started a really good job diamond drilling so I'm thinking this is going on my list of things over the winter. Maybe I'll finally get my car started! It's only been 2 years since everything has been built and in the car now

 

so far so good.. started with arm in upper hole and traction not so good.. going to try lower hole for next outing...
All in with torque arm came to about $3000 so not bad, cheaper than some alternatives although if I had it to do again I might go with the Strange 12 bolt as I think you avoid some of these hassles.

 

Good write up and glad you got it to work, thank you for that.

Don't forget our fabricated packages start at around $3000 and no extra work in making a good torque arm to fit as we do it for you and use all Strange components.

 

I wish there was an alternative to the eyelet on top of the diff. It limits how much to lower the car and I'm afraid it's going to hit the fuel tank.

 

this actually moves it down a little.. mine is 1.5' lower and no issues - in fact it didn't cross my mind until you said something

 

To this point we have not had an issue with our housings using our torque arm mounting location. Bump stop or even bottoming the shock shaft should occur first dependent on shock style and if the bump stop is still present. Of course altering wheel base could change things also.

 

​​​​​​FWIW I have 3/4" wheel spacers, shortened lca's and prefer to run without bump stops. Maybe I could fashion a single center bump stop on the body cross bar in front of the tank to make contact with the TA, that way I still have my cornering articulation

 

I just got my 3rd gen specific torque arm and crossmember and I'm just blown away by the build quality!! Couldn't be happier with it and was definitely worth the wait. And to think I was actually gonna try modifying my existing arm, that was a stupid idea and would've been a huge waste of time. Hopefully get this put in this weekend