Is it worth the time
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Is it worth the time So I'm currently in the process of ls swapping my 98 c1500 I have the 6.0 already on my way to pickup a 4l80e tomorrow,the one thing I'm on the fence about is the rearend in my pickup, is it worth building up a 10 bolt with an Auburn or Eaton trutrac diff with a ratio change and possibly some axles and such (I work at an older rearend shop) so parts isnt an issue but I'm wondering if it's worth the money or go with a 12-14 bolt rearend as my boss says the 10s arent very strong (mind you hes from an older generation of big blocks and 12 bolt rearends) any input on this would be greatly appreciated as the motor I'm hoping for around 500-550 horse
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From: Missouri
Since it's a 98, they made a (heavy half ton) that year. A couple friends over mine have one. It's basically a 14 bolt semi float, with the 6lug pattern. I'd search some yards and try to find one. Freshen it up with parts of your picking and it'd be good to go. That's just my .2¢ wourth.
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Many of the folks on this site are late model F-body guys who are only familiar with the smaller 7.5" 10-bolt. I have to imagine that a full-sized truck of that era must've come with some modern version of the 8.5", as mentioned above, if it's indeed a 10-bolt.
The 8.5" 10-bolt is in a whole different class than the 7.5" version, it's nearly as strong as the 8.875" - therefore not much advantage to a 12-bolt upgrade in this case. 8.5" can take a ton of power when properly setup, but my experience with them has only been in cars (X-body, A/G-body and much older F-bodies). The extra weight of your truck would be the most considerable difference, so you'll really want to seek advice from the truck crowd IMO.
The 8.5" 10-bolt is in a whole different class than the 7.5" version, it's nearly as strong as the 8.875" - therefore not much advantage to a 12-bolt upgrade in this case. 8.5" can take a ton of power when properly setup, but my experience with them has only been in cars (X-body, A/G-body and much older F-bodies). The extra weight of your truck would be the most considerable difference, so you'll really want to seek advice from the truck crowd IMO.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
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Many of the folks on this site are late model F-body guys who are only familiar with the smaller 7.5" 10-bolt. I have to imagine that a full-sized truck of that era must've come with some modern version of the 8.5", as mentioned above, if it's indeed a 10-bolt.
The 8.5" 10-bolt is in a whole different class than the 7.5" version, it's nearly as strong as the 8.875" - therefore not much advantage to a 12-bolt upgrade in this case. 8.5" can take a ton of power when properly setup, but my experience with them has only been in cars (X-body, A/G-body and much older F-bodies). The extra weight of your truck would be the most considerable difference, so you'll really want to seek advice from the truck crowd IMO.
The 8.5" 10-bolt is in a whole different class than the 7.5" version, it's nearly as strong as the 8.875" - therefore not much advantage to a 12-bolt upgrade in this case. 8.5" can take a ton of power when properly setup, but my experience with them has only been in cars (X-body, A/G-body and much older F-bodies). The extra weight of your truck would be the most considerable difference, so you'll really want to seek advice from the truck crowd IMO.
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Teching In
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From: Missouri
Pretty Shure the 95 to 98 (2500 light duty) or aka haevy half rear of that year was the same. Not a 6 lug converted full floater, cause that would be 3in or so wider. You need to look at a factory 14 bolt semi float 6lug ove your year. Also the only difference I can think of between 2wd/4wd on the swap would be driveshaft length....