Trutrac failure?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 267
From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
Trutrac failure? Anyone had one fail? Well, I did at about 1500 miles on the diff. This is in a Moser 12 bolt we had built by Moser. Its whined from the day we first drove it. Problem is, it wasn't purchased and driven within the 1 year warranty time frame at that time. Then this past Oct my son was home to drive his car. First launch at the track, broke the output shaft on trans. Sent it back to Tick and now it has a viper shaft. then a few weeks ago I was giving a warm up ride and started growling and sounding bad. Pulled it out and little pieces of metal came out. The inner helical gears started chipping.
Read some reviews past few days. Great for 4wd applications. Apparently, they don't like hp. So getting a new standard style Eaton LSD. This is a 3 event car so it's not getting a spool.
I just can't win on any part I buy no matter how much I pay. And this car doesn't even make much hp.
Read some reviews past few days. Great for 4wd applications. Apparently, they don't like hp. So getting a new standard style Eaton LSD. This is a 3 event car so it's not getting a spool.
I just can't win on any part I buy no matter how much I pay. And this car doesn't even make much hp.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 936
Likes: 472
Mine's been fine for the past 6 years/60k miles, but in a 6000lb truck stock truck within CAI and tuning (although it's seen it's share of launches though). I've heard of plenty of people using these on pro-touring and muscle cars beating the hell out of them (drag and road course) with at least as much as 700rwhp. The only problems I've heard were well over a decade ago when they first came out. Nothing but good things since (until yours).
The fact that it whined from day one is an indication that something was wrong from the get-go. Maybe they didn't set it up correctly. Also, did you use synthetic gear or a friction reducer? Eaton recommends against that (only mineral oil). My understanding is, the unit will not work properly (needs friction to transfer the power to the other wheel). However, I wonder under extreme conditions if it can cause a durability issue. But again, you had a whining, and I'd be surprised if that came from using a friction modifier.
The fact that it whined from day one is an indication that something was wrong from the get-go. Maybe they didn't set it up correctly. Also, did you use synthetic gear or a friction reducer? Eaton recommends against that (only mineral oil). My understanding is, the unit will not work properly (needs friction to transfer the power to the other wheel). However, I wonder under extreme conditions if it can cause a durability issue. But again, you had a whining, and I'd be surprised if that came from using a friction modifier.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 267
From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
Used only 80-90 conventional like they say to use. The whine was only in 5th and 6th gear and wasn't real bad. It was tolerable for a racecar. I have friends pushing upwards of 800hp that have them and do well, But then also read some reviews last night that the ones that failed, even having less hp than this car, the failure was the exact same result. Gears chipping and digging in housing. Totally making it no-rebuildable.
So far everything I have bought for his car has had issues. Clutches, transmissions, driveshaft, rear diff, some suspension parts. The only thing that has not had one issue is the engine and coilover shocks. I did all engine machining, building, porting and full assembly myself. Its just a little 408. I can't win.
So far everything I have bought for his car has had issues. Clutches, transmissions, driveshaft, rear diff, some suspension parts. The only thing that has not had one issue is the engine and coilover shocks. I did all engine machining, building, porting and full assembly myself. Its just a little 408. I can't win.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 635
Likes: 329
From: Missouri
I bet the shock laod from the output failure caused the initial damage, it just didn't show up till later. I had a s-15 v8 swap do almost same thing, but the transfer case let go. Fixed it and 80 mi later my truetrac went bye bye.... Just an opinion, happy wrenching sir.
unfortunately its 9 inch or s60 for our cars. 12 bolts have no buisness being in our cars. not really much help to your current issue but the 9 inch markets is like the ls3 when it comes to intakes, so many options available in many different price ranges. a rebuildable clutch posi is only like 450 bucks and can hold up to some mild to moderate abuse.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 267
From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
I bet the shock laod from the output failure caused the initial damage, it just didn't show up till later. I had a s-15 v8 swap do almost same thing, but the transfer case let go. Fixed it and 80 mi later my truetrac went bye bye.... Just an opinion, happy wrenching sir.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 267
From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
I bet the shock laod from the output failure caused the initial damage, it just didn't show up till later. I had a s-15 v8 swap do almost same thing, but the transfer case let go. Fixed it and 80 mi later my truetrac went bye bye.... Just an opinion, happy wrenching sir.
New one be here tomorrow.
What really sucks is you can't just get parts for it. Housing and small gears are fine. I just need the 2 side gears. Eaton doesn't sell parts. Just the whole unit.
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TECH Addict
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,513
Likes: 480
From: PDX-OR-USA
I had a True Track in a D44 , behind a jeep 4cyl.. in a wrangler..
daily driver. 15 miles of turns each way to work. Ran the recommended
lube. The helical gears surfaces spalled off and it ate itself to death. Only
thing that seemed to be a possibility looking at it when it was out was they
don't like housing flex at all. You could see the wear marks in teh spiders where
the housing must have had some bend in it.
Went to an ARB and 200 K later its still fine(same housing),,.
I've often wondered why folks don't run ARB's for split duty cars..
Yea they are an extra 3 to 400 bucks installed but from what I've seen its
almost always the axles tor the pinion that give up before the ARB.
Takes almost no air volume to run one, actually have one in the front of the jeep too in a Dana 30.
I have their small compressor work like a champ, and you know you wanted a source for your air throttle anyway! LOL
daily driver. 15 miles of turns each way to work. Ran the recommended
lube. The helical gears surfaces spalled off and it ate itself to death. Only
thing that seemed to be a possibility looking at it when it was out was they
don't like housing flex at all. You could see the wear marks in teh spiders where
the housing must have had some bend in it.
Went to an ARB and 200 K later its still fine(same housing),,.
I've often wondered why folks don't run ARB's for split duty cars..
Yea they are an extra 3 to 400 bucks installed but from what I've seen its
almost always the axles tor the pinion that give up before the ARB.
Takes almost no air volume to run one, actually have one in the front of the jeep too in a Dana 30.
I have their small compressor work like a champ, and you know you wanted a source for your air throttle anyway! LOL
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I definitely didn’t want to read this. I just had a new Moser 12 bolt with TruTrac put in my dam car. I haven’t even gotten it back yet and I’m almost afraid to drive it when I get it back. I called a few places on sourcing a new rear and Moser was the only place with a turnaround time that wasn’t insane. Strange wouldn’t even reply to my messages. Kind of regretting my decision now.
It is a shame this happened to you and even if it was the output shaft the 12-Bolt does not belong in these vehicles and the reason we stopped offering them around 2009 and so did other vendors that cared about their customers. The worst part is a few talk about how great they are and have had no problems but the vendors themselves have seen a ton of issues with them.
Like mentioned above a S60 or a true fabricated nine inch is the only way to go for these vehicles. If the nine inch uses a bracket on bracket system I would stay away from those as well as they create a torque arm fitment issue with the floor.
Like mentioned above a S60 or a true fabricated nine inch is the only way to go for these vehicles. If the nine inch uses a bracket on bracket system I would stay away from those as well as they create a torque arm fitment issue with the floor.
I put this on my website back in 2010. Bob
https://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Sp...nformation.htm
The 12 bolt rears that are available for these cars is a step in the right direction. The 12 bolts are well known for being a stout rear that was a factory option back in the day in many performance cars. You can have a 12 bolt in an early Chevelle, Nova, Camaro, etc, and beat the snot out of it and not hurt anything. Put a 12 bolt into a late model f body that uses a torque arm, make a couple 4000 to 5000 rpm launches at the dragstrip, and I can just about guarantee you'll have a lot more gear noise on the way home. The torque arm seems to distort the housing on the 12 bolts, and it seems to happen to all the brands of 12 bolt rears. This does not happen to the 9 inch rears, and there is no price difference between the 12 bolt and nine inch rears. As the horsepower in our engines keep escalating, most people these days go straight to the nine inch rear. The 9-inch has an internal rear-pinion support that also supports the gear end of the pinion to limit gear deflection under high torque loads. This seems to be the major reason why the 9 inch doesn't start whining after high rpm clutch dumps, when the 12 bolt will pick up noise. The 9-inch locates its pinion gear lower on the ring gear to improve tooth contact, better the 12 bolt does. The 9-inch also has a 0.125-inch larger ring-gear diameter and internal pinion support than the 12 bolt. The 9-inch rear end, originally offered in 1957-1987 Ford cars and light trucks, has been a mainstay in drag racing for over 50 years. Its beefy 9-inch ring gear proved to be an effective alternative to the 8-3/4 Mopar and GM 12-bolt (8.875-inch diameter ring gear) housings of the era. The Ford’s removable carrier design made it easy to swap gear sets, and the aftermarket responded by offering over two dozen ratios between 3.00 and 6.50:1.
https://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Sp...nformation.htm
The 12 bolt rears that are available for these cars is a step in the right direction. The 12 bolts are well known for being a stout rear that was a factory option back in the day in many performance cars. You can have a 12 bolt in an early Chevelle, Nova, Camaro, etc, and beat the snot out of it and not hurt anything. Put a 12 bolt into a late model f body that uses a torque arm, make a couple 4000 to 5000 rpm launches at the dragstrip, and I can just about guarantee you'll have a lot more gear noise on the way home. The torque arm seems to distort the housing on the 12 bolts, and it seems to happen to all the brands of 12 bolt rears. This does not happen to the 9 inch rears, and there is no price difference between the 12 bolt and nine inch rears. As the horsepower in our engines keep escalating, most people these days go straight to the nine inch rear. The 9-inch has an internal rear-pinion support that also supports the gear end of the pinion to limit gear deflection under high torque loads. This seems to be the major reason why the 9 inch doesn't start whining after high rpm clutch dumps, when the 12 bolt will pick up noise. The 9-inch locates its pinion gear lower on the ring gear to improve tooth contact, better the 12 bolt does. The 9-inch also has a 0.125-inch larger ring-gear diameter and internal pinion support than the 12 bolt. The 9-inch rear end, originally offered in 1957-1987 Ford cars and light trucks, has been a mainstay in drag racing for over 50 years. Its beefy 9-inch ring gear proved to be an effective alternative to the 8-3/4 Mopar and GM 12-bolt (8.875-inch diameter ring gear) housings of the era. The Ford’s removable carrier design made it easy to swap gear sets, and the aftermarket responded by offering over two dozen ratios between 3.00 and 6.50:1.
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website