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10 bolt w Zexel- problem removing little bolt to remove axles

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Old 08-14-2022 | 01:42 PM
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Default 10 bolt w Zexel- problem removing little bolt to remove axles

I’m trying to replace an axle on my ‘00 and I can’t get the little bolt that allows access to the c-clips to budge and the head is starting to round. Is it normally supposed to be so hard to remove? I have it in park if that matters. That is the correct bolt to remove to get to the c clips correct? Is it an 8mm?
I’d also like to note that the other day I took the rotor off to have a look at the flange. At that point in time I could move the axle in and out by pulling the flange. When I went to put the rotor back on it didn’t go on flush (bent flange I assume more threads sticking out on bottom than top) so I pressed it on by running the lug nuts down w/out the wheel. Today it was tough to get the rotor off and the axle doesn’t budge when you pull in or out.


Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; 08-14-2022 at 02:14 PM.
Old 08-14-2022 | 08:50 PM
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Is it red thread locker that I’m battling? I also just read that I need to remove the traction control sensor. I just have it disconnected at the moment.
I hope The Garage Squad shows up..
Old 08-15-2022 | 12:09 PM
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A six-point box wrench or six-point socket should be used to remove that crossbolt. 12pt wrenches always cause a 'rounding' issue.
The traction control sensors might have to be removed to push the axle far enough inward to remove the c-clip.
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Old 08-15-2022 | 01:28 PM
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You need a 5/16, 6 point box end wrench. 8mm is not exactlly correct and you can round that bolt off, and it looks like that has already started a little bit. 5/16 box end and rotate your axles around to get it in the right place and tap the wrench with a hammer, I used a brass hammer.

The bolt comes with red thread locker on it and that is why you want an exact fit wrench and a slight tap to break it loose.

And always, always replace that bolt with a new one that comes with the red loc-tight already on it. New bolt costs about $2 or $3 and you want that peace of mind that you have a new factory thread locker bolt. And yeah, remove the TCS sensors.

After you get that bolt out there is a little paddle that comes out, the part that you see the bolt going through. After the paddle is out the axles can be pushed in and the C clips retaining the axle falls out. Then the axle will just pull right out. Check the axle for scarring around where it rides on the bearing. You really should plan on getting a bearing puller and slide hammer to remove the bearing and replace with new bearing and seal. But you can replace the axle and leave the bearing and seal alone.
Old 08-15-2022 | 01:43 PM
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Like this:

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Old 08-15-2022 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ghardester
You need a 5/16, 6 point box end wrench. 8mm is not exactlly correct and you can round that bolt off, and it looks like that has already started a little bit. 5/16 box end and rotate your axles around to get it in the right place and tap the wrench with a hammer, I used a brass hammer.

The bolt comes with red thread locker on it and that is why you want an exact fit wrench and a slight tap to break it loose.

And always, always replace that bolt with a new one that comes with the red loc-tight already on it. New bolt costs about $2 or $3 and you want that peace of mind that you have a new factory thread locker bolt. And yeah, remove the TCS sensors.

After you get that bolt out there is a little paddle that comes out, the part that you see the bolt going through. After the paddle is out the axles can be pushed in and the C clips retaining the axle falls out. Then the axle will just pull right out. Check the axle for scarring around where it rides on the bearing. You really should plan on getting a bearing puller and slide hammer to remove the bearing and replace with new bearing and seal. But you can replace the axle and leave the bearing and seal alone.
Thanks. What I’m kind of worried about (other than getting the bolt out) is why the axles no longer move freely in and out like the did before. I’m afraid I jammed it in too far when I ran the rotor down tight w the lug nuts w out the rim. Even if I get the paddle out I don’t think the axle will slide easy. Also, what is that bolt called and who has one?
Old 08-15-2022 | 02:08 PM
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I still have a new Dorman bolt in the package which calls it a Differential Shaft Lock Bolt. Rockauto calls it a Differential Cross Pin Bolt.

They are used by both GM and Ford and your local auto parts store probably has one in stock.
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Old 08-15-2022 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ghardester
I still have a new Dorman bolt in the package which calls it a Differential Shaft Lock Bolt. Rockauto calls it a Differential Cross Pin Bolt.

They are used by both GM and Ford and your local auto parts store probably has one in stock.
Thank you sir.
Old 08-15-2022 | 06:39 PM
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Has anyone an axle that didn’t have any in and out play when clipped in and wouldn’t come out when the clips were off? Is it possible to jam the end of the axle too far inward causing it to bind? I have a pretty bad feeling that that’s the predicament that I’m going to be in. The axle used to slid in and out when I pulled on the hub but now it won’t budge no matter how hard I pull. If that’s the case what does one do? Get a new axle assy?
*Edit*
panic for no reason. It’s out.

Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; 08-15-2022 at 07:17 PM.



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