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Yeah same wheel. It’s a refinished oem wheel. I thought about switching wheels and I need to I guess just to see. But at one point in time the rotor wouldn’t slide on over studs all that well because some of the studs were rubbing the sides of the bolt holes. So the issues started before the wheel was even in the mix. The weather isn’t cooperating now though. It’s 33* and raining and I think it’s supposed to be like this most of the week. Hopefully Friday I’ll get to take it for a spin to see what it does.
Yeah, I agree with trying one variable at a time. Drive it how it is now, when you can, see what happens. Maybe it's fixed with the fully seated studs now. If it still comes loose, then next I would try the wheel swap like FirstYrLS1Z recommended.
Originally Posted by Y2K_Frenzy
Is it cold in y’all’s neck of the woods?
It's 7°F here right now, going below 0 tonight. This garbage makes me sick. I haven't driven any of my "toys" since November, probably won't be out again until April.
It's 7°F here right now, going below 0 tonight. This garbage makes me sick. I haven't driven any of my "toys" since November, probably won't be out again until April.
Ha dang 7* that’s terrible man. Here I am complaining about 32* F.
Here in northeast Ohio along Lake Erie, teens/twenties/thirties but typically gets much colder. Haven't had as much snow as we typically get, so far only one shovelable snowfall. The Z won't come out until March because of the salt on the roads and March rains will wash that away.
It was like -12°F just before Christmas, so it's not as bad as it could be. But yeah, it still sucks...especially when I get my heating bill.
We kinda get a break in the winter as far as the energy bill goes. But in the summer that A/C can bleed you dry if you’re not careful. 😂 (TX) However, I’ll take 100* over 30* any day. It looks like it might dry up on Sunday so maybe I’ll get to take er for a spin. If all goes well front brakes and front shocks are next on the list. Are those generally a **** to replace on these? I don’t have any experience with a spring compressor, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night..
I drove it today and they were loose when I got to work. When I say loose I don’t mean they’re fixing to fly off. They’re not finger tight or anything like that, it takes a bit of force to snug them back down. At any rate all of them needed to be tightened down some this time, not just the usual suspects. I’m not 100% but I think one of the studs that used to sit flush with the end of the nut snugged down to where it was a little bit passed flush this time. I don’t know if this is the right thing to do but I think I’m going to try and seat the studs again. The last time I used a flat washer with the i.d.a little bigger than the stud and I don’t know if it “grabbed” the stud well enough to where it would pull it in. This time I have some 12mm lock washers I might try. I’m not sure if they’ll slide over the stud but I think they will, if they do do y’all think I will have a hard time getting them back off? Is a lock washer even the right thing to be using? Should I use an impact or a torque wrench? How many ft lbs should it take to seat them? I don’t want to snap one off but surely it’s gotta be something with the lugs (Unless the dang flange is out of whack maybe). How flush is the head of the stud supposed to be in the rear? I can’t really see any gaps back there but it’s hard to see. Generally speaking how much not threaded portion of the stud is protruding through the flange? I guess if I snap one I went too far.. 😂
. I’ll swap the tires left & right to see what that does I suppose.
I bought a wheel stud install tool. The type that you slip over the stud and tighten it down with the lug nut. I tightened the nut to 85 ft lbs. After everything was back together I tightened lug nuts too 100 lbs with the wheel on. It took me a few tq sequences to get them all at 100. I went 50, 85, 100. I noticed that some nuts took longer to tighten than others and I think when I tightened a few of them the nut directly across from the one that I was tightening loosened up quite a bit.
Then I went for three 12 mile round trip drives and I had to tighten them back down after each trip. I think one took like 40 ft lbs to get it back to 100 ft lbs.
I don’t think the rotor going evenly, like one side is flush and the other isn’t. But I don’t think it’s the studs at this point. The nuts have been torqued down a bunch at this point so surely they’d been pulled in by now. When I put the rotor on it doesn’t seem to sit very well on the hub. It doesn’t seem to want to slide straight on and when it’s seated it’s wobbly left and right. Crappy axle flange I think at this point maybe.
I wish someone other than Dorman had a shaft with the ABS ring already pressed on it. I don’t really want to buy another Dorman, but I guess it might be better to new ring have someone press it on a different brand.
Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; 02-04-2023 at 07:58 PM.
When I put the rotor on it doesn’t seem to sit very well on the hub. It doesn’t seem to want to slide straight on and when it’s seated it’s wobbly left and right. Crappy axle flange I think at this point maybe.
So the bolded part concerns me, my understanding was that this part of the problem had been resolved once you more fully seated the studs. I guess this part of the problem is back?
I'd still try swapping wheels before going further, just to rule it out.
So the bolded part concerns me, my understanding was that this part of the problem had been resolved once you more fully seated the studs. I guess this part of the problem is back?
I'd still try swapping wheels before going further, just to rule it out.
I’m going to swap wheels & rotors I think. The rotor slides over the studs easy but I don’t think it sits in the hub very well. If the bolt holes weren’t so much larger in diameter than the studs I don’t think the rotor would slide over them because three of the studs are real close to the side of the side of the bolt holes. Before putting the wheel on I can position the rotor to where it’s not touching the studs (but they’re still close) but when I put the wheel on I think the rotor moves and the bolt catches the side of the rotor hole. Are all of the studs not supposed to be dead center in the rotor? Mine are all over the place.
I’m going to swap wheels & rotors I think. The rotor slides over the studs easy but I don’t think it sits in the hub very well. If the bolt holes weren’t so much larger in diameter than the studs I don’t think the rotor would slide over them because three of the studs are real close to the side of the side of the bolt holes. Before putting the wheel on I can position the rotor to where it’s not touching the studs (but they’re still close) but when I put the wheel on I think the rotor moves and the bolt catches the side of the rotor hole. Are all of the studs not supposed to be dead center in the rotor? Mine are all over the place.
I swapped the sides the wheels were on and I got the same results. The passenger side stayed tight and the drivers came loose. I didn’t swap rotors, so I guess now it’s down to the rotor or the axle. The rotors don’t really look too different from each other when they’re sitting on the hub as far as bolt hole alignment. Could it be that the studs aren’t pulled through? I’m kind of doubting it because to the naked eye the studs all look to be the same length, yet when you mount the wheel they one would think 3 of them are a lot shorter than the others due to the amount of threads left showing in the nuts. Surely the nuts should all tighten down to the same depth, and that they’d all be flush or a little past. The ones that keep coming loose aren’t even close to flush. I can’t see two threads worth of gap showing between the head of the stud & the back of the flange. They all looked pretty flush to me. How recessed in, or “counter sunk” are they supposed to be?
I’m not sure what I’m going to to next. Here’s the passenger side (good side) rotor. It didn’t look as different from the drivers side as I thought it would be. “Good side”
Quick question? When the studs are all the way seated the head quit spinning or will it keep spinning until the stud breaks? Do y’all think 85 ft lbs was enough to seat the studs using the tool and the lug nut? I felt the back of the head spinning but the studs didn’t protrude any differently though the nuts than before. So I guess they didn’t change much. I think I’m going to try another axle.
Quick question? When the studs are all the way seated the head quit spinning or will it keep spinning until the stud breaks? Do y’all think 85 ft lbs was enough to seat the studs using the tool and the lug nut? I felt the back of the head spinning but the studs didn’t protrude any differently though the nuts than before. So I guess they didn’t change much. I think I’m going to try another axle.
So you're saying the studs were spinning while you were tightening the lugs?
Quick question? When the studs are all the way seated the head quit spinning or will it keep spinning until the stud breaks? Do y’all think 85 ft lbs was enough to seat the studs using the tool and the lug nut? I felt the back of the head spinning but the studs didn’t protrude any differently though the nuts than before. So I guess they didn’t change much. I think I’m going to try another axle.
My copy of the shop manual TQ specs shows 100 lb/ft for rear axle wheel bolts. So 85 is a bit short of that, but I'm not really sure how much difference it would make based on the fact that only *some* of them are coming lose.
It should be a snug, interference fit though. If the head is spinning then I have to wonder if there is an issue with the studs or the flange holes that's not allowing proper bite.
If the head is spinning then I have to wonder if there is an issue with the studs or the flange holes that's not allowing proper bite.
The 'plot' thickens !
With the differences of threads showing when nuts are tight and a potential 'spinning' issue, it's beginning to sound like that what ever the 'offshore' manufacturer of the axle was, studs were pressed in with whatever studs happened to be on hand, wrong lengths and wrong splines. When I worked at Tuffy, we had to be careful to use the correct replacement stud because of length, number of splines on the stud, and undersize/oversize diameter of the spline.
I'm wondering how you even get proper torque with the studs spinning. I thought I read about borrowing a click type torque wrench. No way it's going to click if the studs are spinning.
My copy of the shop manual TQ specs shows 100 lb/ft for rear axle wheel bolts. So 85 is a bit short of that, but I'm not really sure how much difference it would make based on the fact that only *some* of them are coming lose.
It should be a snug, interference fit though. If the head is spinning then I have to wonder if there is an issue with the studs or the flange holes that's not allowing proper bite.
Originally Posted by FirstYrLS1Z
The 'plot' thickens !
With the differences of threads showing when nuts are tight and a potential 'spinning' issue, it's beginning to sound like that what ever the 'offshore' manufacturer of the axle was, studs were pressed in with whatever studs happened to be on hand, wrong lengths and wrong splines. When I worked at Tuffy, we had to be careful to use the correct replacement stud because of length, number of splines on the stud, and undersize/oversize diameter of the spline.
The head spun @ 85 ft lbs, dunno if it would’ve @ 100 lbs but 85 lbs didn’t make any difference in “thread count” through the nut at all. As many times as I’ve had to tighten the wheels I think surely the studs are as in as far as they’re going to go.
They sent an extra set of studs and nuts with the new axle. At this point though I’m thinking I’m going to order another Dorman axle and if it works out I’ll send the first one back. If it doesn’t work out I’ll send the 2nd one back. Yeah I know, kinda tacky. Replacing the axle sounds easier than banging the studs out of the one I have now, and this time I can make sure they’re seated with my lil wheel stud tool prior to installing them. There are some positive reviews for this axle as far as fitment goes. Maybe I got a crappy one and next time I’ll get a good one. I bet it’s stud related though since I used to have quite a time sliding the rotor on. The rotor that hit the curb was hard to put on the newly replaced axle too but at that time I thought maybe the rotor was messed up.
I'm wondering how you even get proper torque with the studs spinning. I thought I read about borrowing a click type torque wrench. No way it's going to click if the studs are spinning.
The stud was spinning when I was trying to seat them with the install tool, which I think grabs the stud by the shank and turns it. I was wondering if it would ever bottom out to where the head of the stud wouldn’t spin anymore.
The studs aren’t spinning when I’m putting the tire on. But they might be when I’m going down the road I guess.
Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; 02-05-2023 at 07:41 PM.
01-30-2023, 07:42 PM
