Strange 12 bolt rear end - wheel studs, wheels?
#5
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Ive been dealing with this issue ever since I ordered my 12 bolt and I have yet to figure it out. Ok...Strange only offers the metric studs in 2" total length in which 1 5/8" will stick out past the axle flange. Well, I think they are going to be too short, so I want to order them in 2 1/2" total length, but they dont offer them. Well I called ARP to see if they made them and they dont. They can make me a set, but Im looking at a grand for a set. I need 12mm x 1.5 threaded in style studs 2 1/2" in total length. Does anyone know where I can get some? I woud assume that if ARP doesnt carry them, then no one would. So if this is true, can I use standard studs and still use my Bogarts? Reason I want to use standard studs is because I have a lot more options for lengths. However, Im afraid that my rims will not fit because I will be using standards studs. Since they are standard, it will have a slightly different bolt pattern. If someone can confirm that I will be able to run standard studs and my wheels, then thats all I need to know. Thanks.
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Ive been hassling with this problem for about a month now, and I have yet to find the answer. I ordered a Strange 12 bolt 3 1/2 weeks ago and the only portion of the order I wasnt certain on were the wheel studs. Although you have your choice of standard or metric threads, they only offer the metrics in 1 length, which is 2 inches long. However, only 1 5/8" stick out past the axle flange. Well, the metric studs that Strange puts into their rear ends is going to be pretty close to the stockers. I believe the Strange studs will stick out 1/16" more, but will have 1/2" more threads since the stockers dont have threads all the way to the end of the stud. Anyhow, I dont think that the metric studs are going to pass tech, so my only option is to go to a standard stud.
My question is, will my rims (Bogarts) fit using standard studs? Since the studs will be standard, the bolt pattern will slightly change. I know its very minimal, but Im wondering if its enough for my rims not to fit. I was thinking of getting the studs 2 1/2" in total length, do you think that they will be long enough?
I called ARP and they do not carry/stock metric thread in type studs, only pressed in. The only metric thread in style they have is the 2".
Anyhow, I just want to make sure that I specify the correct studs before the rear end is assembled, that way I dont have to remove the axles to replace the studs. Thanks.
My question is, will my rims (Bogarts) fit using standard studs? Since the studs will be standard, the bolt pattern will slightly change. I know its very minimal, but Im wondering if its enough for my rims not to fit. I was thinking of getting the studs 2 1/2" in total length, do you think that they will be long enough?
I called ARP and they do not carry/stock metric thread in type studs, only pressed in. The only metric thread in style they have is the 2".
Anyhow, I just want to make sure that I specify the correct studs before the rear end is assembled, that way I dont have to remove the axles to replace the studs. Thanks.
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Pretty sure they'll fit. I have a buddy with a 9in and standard thread studs...his pro-stars fit fine. It won't change the bolt pattern, because they are still going in the same pattern holes, theyre just a different pitch and length.
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My Strange 12 bolt axles has a dual pattern on the ends. It had normal 12mm studs in it. I took those out and put some ARP 1/2"x3" studs in there. It does not change the bolt patters. I just had to get new lugs.
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Sweet...good to hear! From what Strange told me, they said if I go with a standard thread, that the bolt pattern will be standard as well. They said that the difference was so small, but I wasnt sure if it was enough to not allow my rims to fit. I know that the axles had dual patterns, but one in standard and the other in metric.
Ok...if my stocker studs were pretty much flush with the rim, then wouldnt I need them to stick past the rim 1/2" to be legal? If so, then theres no reason to get a 3" long stud correct because it would be sticking out 1/2" too much? The rule says that the hex portion of the stud must engage the threads at least the equal diameter of the stud.
Ok...if my stocker studs were pretty much flush with the rim, then wouldnt I need them to stick past the rim 1/2" to be legal? If so, then theres no reason to get a 3" long stud correct because it would be sticking out 1/2" too much? The rule says that the hex portion of the stud must engage the threads at least the equal diameter of the stud.
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Originally Posted by BlackBeaSSt
The rule says that the hex portion of the stud must engage the threads at least the equal diameter of the stud.
The rule means (been through this b4) that the stud must be in the hex part of the nut AT LEAST 1/2 way to be legal. Ive been through this b4 with the techs at HRP and had the rule explained to me very 'throughly'. lol JP
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Originally Posted by BlackBeaSSt
Anyhow, I dont think that the metric studs are going to pass tech, so my only option is to go to a standard stud.
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Now that I have the wheel stud issue out of the way, its time to deal with the lugnuts. I need McGard 1/2" x 20 open end, shank style, lugnuts, but there are 3 part numbers that are like what I described. The differences between the 3 are the shank lengths.
MCG-60127/ 0.490
MCG-61005/ 0.746
MCG-63004/ 1.365
Not sure why they offer different lengths of shanks, but which ones do I need? Also, another variation that I noticed was the washer shape, why do they offer different ones? None of the 3 are different, they all have centered round. I would think if the shank is too long, then it wouldnt tighten down the rim because the end of it will bottom out on the brake rotor not sitting flush with the outside of the rim.
MCG-60127/ 0.490
MCG-61005/ 0.746
MCG-63004/ 1.365
Not sure why they offer different lengths of shanks, but which ones do I need? Also, another variation that I noticed was the washer shape, why do they offer different ones? None of the 3 are different, they all have centered round. I would think if the shank is too long, then it wouldnt tighten down the rim because the end of it will bottom out on the brake rotor not sitting flush with the outside of the rim.
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maybe im slow today or something, but how can changing studs change the bolt pattern?
bolt patterns are measured from center of one hole to center of the opposite hole...right? so unless your changing your axles, how is that going to change?
bolt patterns are measured from center of one hole to center of the opposite hole...right? so unless your changing your axles, how is that going to change?
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This info was passed down to me from Strange. They said the axles have 2 sets of patterns, 1 metric and 1 standard. On the metric pattern, the bolt pattern is metric (mm) and on the standard, the pattern is standard. (in.) The studs for these axles will have to be threaded in because the axles are tapped as opposed to pressing them in.
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Mine came with 2 sets of stud holes,so they can accommodate 12mm x1.25 metric or 1/2" screw in studs...But if you got a Early unit the rear axel assembly is 3-inches narrower and has the 1/2"studs.....As you have most likley found out, they won't be of much help over the phone.
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I went through this awhile back and found out you have to switch over to the standard 1/2" studs. You'll just need to have the correct lug nuts or shanks for your particular wheel. I found some conical lug nuts at a parts store that worked for my application, Bogart s/b able to hook u up np.
Getting the new studs in was interesting, if you don't want to remove the axles, you need to make a hole in the backing plate so you can unscrew the studs. There is a cast -in cirlce on the backing plate, I drilled a pilot hole then used a big step drill bit to finish the hole.
Getting the new studs in was interesting, if you don't want to remove the axles, you need to make a hole in the backing plate so you can unscrew the studs. There is a cast -in cirlce on the backing plate, I drilled a pilot hole then used a big step drill bit to finish the hole.