10 Bolt worth builing?
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 6,157
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Originally Posted by FoRgOtTeNPaSsWoRd
Or you could buy a 9", for a little more security and a little less money! 
Im not sure where you can a 9" for less. I did alot of research before I bought mine but the 9" was always more then the 12 bolt.
I'm only going up to 3.42s and those, just because I
already have them (used) and the carrier is going to
be re-set-up anyway. Figure they are strong enough
to survive but I don't trust 3.73s and higher. I may
just put the 3.23s back, depending on what the
wear there looks like. I have enough 1st gear wheel
torque as it is, for street rubber. But since I went up
to the taller 285/40s I figure I can use a little more
gear.
already have them (used) and the carrier is going to
be re-set-up anyway. Figure they are strong enough
to survive but I don't trust 3.73s and higher. I may
just put the 3.23s back, depending on what the
wear there looks like. I have enough 1st gear wheel
torque as it is, for street rubber. But since I went up
to the taller 285/40s I figure I can use a little more
gear.
ok im gonna get the t2r unit .. i know i need a new set of gears and i want to do 3.73s are their stronger gears i can buy in this ratio that the normal gm ones also what else do i need (or should i get) for this swap?
Originally Posted by ONGRNGO
Definitly save up for the 12bolt don't waste the money on the 10bolt just go till it breaks then buy the 12bolt, thats my opinion 
Dan
Dan
If I could afford it I would do the same, but if mine lets go I am just going to rebuild it most likely. Although it seems weird how the stock stuff for some of us last a long time, and then people get stuff rebuilt or buy a whole new built trans or whatever and have worse problems than they did with the stock one. I too am still running the stock rear end (4.10's) and trans in my car too. I know one day it will break though, and it will be all over but the
You most likely have a Torsion diff, so there are no spider gears, but if you do have a true posi, don't weld them. The first corner you take, you will break the whole rear (axles, diff., or gear). The torsion works well for the money. I never heard of one breaking and the best part is, the less traction you get from one tire, the more it pulls on the other. So lets say you are doing a burnout and at first one wheel gets less traction than the other, it will push more power to the wheel with traction till they both spin (this all happens in milliseconds so you almost never know). So you end up with the most traction possible. Like I said earlier, get a girdle for it and forgehabouit.
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