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Cryoing a 10 bolt?

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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 05:49 PM
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Default Cryoing a 10 bolt?

Has anyone ever done this? I have seen claims for 50 to 100% strength improvement in metals. I have been thinking of pulling mine over the winter geting a 3.73 and sending it out. With a ta cover i think might last awhile with slicks. Am i nuts?
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 06:37 PM
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Yes I do think you kinda are, look around for a 9.5 14 bolt semi floater (if this is for a SUV/Truck) as it can be found with 6 lug wheels and is a lot stronger than a 10 bolt and much stronger stock axles too. If this is a car, look around for a Ford 9 inch or a Dana 60 to narrow and put under it.
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 07:19 PM
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Assuming it produced the gains you think, it might last with an A4. I doubt it would be enough with a 6 speed. Probably just burning up money that would be better spent on a 12 bolt or 9"
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Ragtop 99
Assuming it produced the gains you think, it might last with an A4. I doubt it would be enough with a 6 speed. Probably just burning up money that would be better spent on a 12 bolt or 9"
A 12 bolt is not a big step up over a 10 bolt overall, go 9 inch or a Dana 60 and be done with it.
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 08:10 PM
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since the actual braking of the gears is usually not from a lack of strength in the gears themselves but rather the housing flexing and twisting/binding the gears, nope.....waste of money.......

if you want to make the 10 bolt last "longer", look into some way of stiffening the housing its self (go further than just a girdle).....otherwise just chip in you $2K and get a 12bolt/9" and be finished.....
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 08:12 PM
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i dont know anyone who works on our cars that has said its a good idea to invest money into our stock rears.
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ULTIMATEORANGESS
i dont know anyone who works on our cars that has said its a good idea to invest money into our stock rears.
I think you can do it a bit cheaper than that if you find a rear end in a bone yard and have it narrowed to fit. It may cost a little more up front the trying to beef a 10 bolt but will be cheaper in long run for less broken parts but again I would not waste time narrowing a 12 bolt as I have seen a lot of those blown in years past (axles is stock or blown ring gear when aftermarket axles are used) Yes it is strong than a 10bolt but not a big jump. A 9 inch or a D60 would be a bigger jump and the nice thing about the 9 inch is that with the removable center section, if you have a spare you can "swap" gear ratios in less than a hour.
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 01:38 AM
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A built 12 bolt (8.875") is a huge step from these tiny 10 bolts (7 5/8") in the F-body. A 9"or D60 is the ultimate IMO. I would like to see a D60 adapted to fit our cars so I can see the clearance on it. By the time you spend the money to make a Jig, have your axle tubes shortend, all the proper brackets welded on, weld on the TA mount, buy all the parts, you might as well just buy one already built and prooven. Remember, Moser and strange have the center section molded with the TA bracket already there, very OEM looking.

Dan
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by DanZ28
A built 12 bolt (8.875") is a huge step from these tiny 10 bolts (7 5/8") in the F-body. A 9"or D60 is the ultimate IMO. I would like to see a D60 adapted to fit our cars so I can see the clearance on it. By the time you spend the money to make a Jig, have your axle tubes shortend, all the proper brackets welded on, weld on the TA mount, buy all the parts, you might as well just buy one already built and prooven. Remember, Moser and strange have the center section molded with the TA bracket already there, very OEM looking.

Dan

I would not say huge step up, but it is a step up. Some of them break with only 450rwhp
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by DanZ28
A built 12 bolt (8.875") is a huge step from these tiny 10 bolts (7 5/8") in the F-body. A 9"or D60 is the ultimate IMO. I would like to see a D60 adapted to fit our cars so I can see the clearance on it. By the time you spend the money to make a Jig, have your axle tubes shortend, all the proper brackets welded on, weld on the TA mount, buy all the parts, you might as well just buy one already built and prooven. Remember, Moser and strange have the center section molded with the TA bracket already there, very OEM looking.

Dan

Over a 7.625 10 bolt yes, over a 8.5 10 bolt no
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 09:28 AM
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I think cryo is basically just "work hardening" without
the deformation that usually implies. You gain tensile
strength, hardness. But, you would want to know
whether tensile strength is really what limits you -
I think it is not, but rather fracture toughness on
gear teeth, etc. Race gears are soft so they won't
snap (just wear quicker). Some things want to be
harder, some want tougher, some just plain bigger.

Though I could be missing the finer points of cryo
treatment, I think it's not something you would
want to just go applying to everything (and, I
think it has varying usefulness with material, steels
do not all respond to the same degree, etc.).
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 09:34 AM
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The theory behind cryo is tha it is supposed to realign the granular structure in the metal for greater yeild strength. it is not a "hardening" process.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by snoman
Over a 7.625 10 bolt yes, over a 8.5 10 bolt no
Agree'd! but we don't have 8.5" 10 bolts in our cars, we unfortunately have 7.625 (7 5/8") which still uses the old Vega axle design but 28 spline.

12 bolts break, so do 9". They can be built to handle considerably more power than a 10 bolt, so that's a good size step IMO, maybe not huge ..

Dan
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by DanZ28
Agree'd! but we don't have 8.5" 10 bolts in our cars, we unfortunately have 7.625 (7 5/8") which still uses the old Vega axle design but 28 spline.

12 bolts break, so do 9". They can be built to handle considerably more power than a 10 bolt, so that's a good size step IMO, maybe not huge ..

Dan

Then a 7.625 10 bolt? Agreed.
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Old Oct 18, 2004 | 12:40 AM
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I say just go with a 14 bolt Full Floater from a 1 Ton Chevy truck. No worries about breakin' that one!
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Old Oct 18, 2004 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by axisT6
I say just go with a 14 bolt Full Floater from a 1 Ton Chevy truck. No worries about breakin' that one!
Let me know how it fits for ya!
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 05:17 AM
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You can break any rear end with enough power
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 04:03 PM
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I have a 10.5" in my excursion... that thing will never break!
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Old Oct 19, 2004 | 04:31 PM
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Cryo treating the gears is only one weakness. The axles also break, and so do the cases. And the part about being able to break any rear- we sell parts for them all, and 10.25/10.5 Ford is a pretty popular one. They all break even Dana 80s, its just a matter of what it takes to break it.
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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 10:52 AM
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I wanted to send the entire unit out brakes and all. I figured welding the tubes, a ta girdle and a cryo job done and i would be ok for 400 hp and slicks.

It seems alot less hassle because it bolts right back in no parts hunting.I like my abs and asr. I run a auto so i thought i could get away with it.
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