Carrier swap completed!
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I just finished installing a new carrier in my stock 10-bolt after destroying the spider gears in my old auburn. I had this popping noise when I would turn left and have the clutch engaged. I had tightened and retightened all the suspension in the rear about 4 times and finally drained the differential to see chunks and slivers of metal in the gear oil.
Anyways, all turned out good. I replaced the broken carrier with a torsen off a ’02 WS6. I just bolted on my stock ring gear on the carrier, and went to town checking for backlash. I didn’t even touch the pinion gear, so I didn’t have to mess with pinion depth, thank goodness. I used a dial gauge I bought from Napa (which cost about $100), and got the backlash set to .008 using the stock shims. I put everything back together, and tested out the new rear. No more popping noise.
A big thanks to HavATampa and WJ SOM SS, I know I couldn’t have done this without your guys help.
Anyways, all turned out good. I replaced the broken carrier with a torsen off a ’02 WS6. I just bolted on my stock ring gear on the carrier, and went to town checking for backlash. I didn’t even touch the pinion gear, so I didn’t have to mess with pinion depth, thank goodness. I used a dial gauge I bought from Napa (which cost about $100), and got the backlash set to .008 using the stock shims. I put everything back together, and tested out the new rear. No more popping noise.
A big thanks to HavATampa and WJ SOM SS, I know I couldn’t have done this without your guys help.
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Hey guys, after taking my car to work today, I noticed the ABS INOP light turned on and stayed on. Any idea what this could be? My old auburn carrier did have a type of gear right next to the ring gear where a sensor is located in the housing and the new torsen doesn't have that gear. Could this be what is causing it?
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The differential will have to come out. So yes, the 4 bolts will have to come out. But the ring gear bolts don't have to come off. Just keep track of the shims on both sides. The reluctor wheel is just held on by pressure. It will help to heat the reluctor to take it off and put it on though. Heat it a little with a torch to get it off and put it in an oven at 350* for about 15 minutes to put it back on. It's a little brittle, so try not to beat on it much.
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I completely owned that rear end.
I took everything apart, and just lightly tapped the reluctor wheel off with a hammer. I came off in no time, and I just carefully put it on the new carrier by tightening the bolts in a criss cross pattern. Went in just fine. It took me all of about 1 1/2 hours from start to finish. I'll check tomorrow to make sure the ABS INOP light is off, which I know will be though. Thanks guys, happy new year!
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