ShooterSS

iTrader: (3)

I'm going to install a T/A Girdle and I got some Redline 80W140 but I see that the 'norm' is 75W90. Is anyone running the 80W140 and if so, anything I should worry about?

I saw a post on LS1.com by mitchntx that he uses the 80W140. Does anyone else run this with any luck?

Thanks...

<img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">

Top Fuel

iTrader: (8)

I wouldn't do it. Just put in the 75w90. All 80w140 is going to do is eat up horsepower and gas mileage. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">

later, <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" />
Steve

Cool28

iTrader: (2)

your gears might whine less cause of how thick it is. I don't know though.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

i switched from the gm 75/90 to redline 80/140 and noticed to significant change in noise, mileage, or hp.

TheZman

My rearend was pretty noisy this past summer so i decided to change fluid for the first time (25,000miles). I went to my local dealer and got the recomended additive(don,t remember part #) and the parts store to get 2 quarts of 80w90(nonsynthetic) as recomended by HAYNES repair manual. The differential is now whisper quiet. I believe synthetic fluid would work fine, but this solved my problems.

Bob2of3

iTrader: (11)

[quote]Originally posted by MIGHTYMOUSE:
<strong>i switched from the gm 75/90 to redline 80/140 and noticed to significant change in noise, mileage, or hp.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Was the changes all good are just the noise factor.

<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" />

project9sec

75/90 with the linited slip lube. i used it in mine 4 weeks ago.

Pacman

FYI: I was told never to put in synthetic fluid in rearends. This came from a shop that does nothing but rearends. I found this out after I changed from dino to synthetic fluid and my rearend immediately started to whine. I changed back to dino a few months later. the whine wasn't as loud, but now it's back.

I'm going back to this shop tomorrow for new gears and/or setup. I ask them in person about synthetic in rearends.

The synthetic was Mobil 1.

Kevin

rom3

The manual calls for synthetic specifically yet I hear so many times that rear end shops recommend dino. What does synthetic do vs. dino that the factory calls for it in the rear but not in the engine?

project9sec

well i thik it is bs i noticed my rear end working better. the only synthetic you should use is the redline. the rest for some reason make the rear whine. i have noticed a big difference in the way my rear sounds and performs with the synthetic. but like i said ONLY use redline

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I run 85/140 dino my my Moser 9"/4.10/Tractech locker setup but I do that to keep the gears quiet and because the fluid can take the heat of my burnouts better. My 4.10's are pretty quiet.

But I probably lose a few hp because of the thicker fluid.

[ November 20, 2001: Message edited by: Pro Stock John ]</p>

ShooterSS

iTrader: (3)

I've heard something about some synthetics not meeting the GL-5 specification but I know for a fact that Redline does. My tranny guy basically said lower temps and better lubrication. We'll see what happens. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">

Z06Cam

Can anyone recommend a certain brand of 85/140 dyno oil for a 12 bolt rear? Or does brand matter when it comes to dino oil?

y2khawk

iTrader: (5)

When i got my 12 bolt, I actually met the guy who set it up at his house. the fab shop was 2 hours from me, and he lived half way between. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">

I talked to him for quite awhile about it.

I'm running an Eaton posi, so no limited slip additive. Was told the clutch packs didn't need it.

Also, he said run 80w140 for the break in, and after.

They like to use the heavier weight oil for noise, and wear. It's just better all around for the rear, or so i was told.

I really have no specific brand that i use. But i have changed it at least 4 times since the install of the rear. Always dino 80W140 <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">

ScottyG

I run 85W-140 on Pyle Bros. (Baytown, TX) recommendation.

They've got a good reputation when it comes to racing and abused diffs.

I'm more interested in durability than I am in those last few hp's.

LunaticTA

Stupid question, I have never seen RP 85/140 in any auto store, so where do I get it?

Thanks,

Chuck

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

I installed my own 4.10s, broke them in with Redline 75W90. I then changed it a few thousand later and used 85W140 Royal Purple. The thicker oil masks the noise some and also cushions the gears more. Some old school gear guys dont like synthetic for some reason. GM recommends it for a reason. Its good stuff and helps keep the heat down. I would use either Royal Purple or Redline oil. I remember reading a while ago that Mobil 1 gear oil doesnt meat the proper specs and Redline/RP are the same price.

Brad

OBSSSD@work

oiltown.com

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Wow ... I'm quoted! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Redline 85W140 for 3 years
2 season of AX
1000+ miles of RR
6000 miles of Hot Rod Power Tour at speeds sometimes above the legal posted limits <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

I use it because of climate. A lot of my road course time is during the hot Texas summer, where ambient is at 100 degrees and track temps are 160. Want to get rid of the heat!

<small>[ June 12, 2002, 10:26 AM: Message edited by: mitchntx ]</small>

Superman

I used Redline synthetic (don`t remmember which grade) for a long time and thought all was good until I had some warranty work done and it got replaced by GM fluids. For a while I thought my posi was going since it wouldn`t lock up sometimes especially going around corners on the gun... it got 100% better with the GM stuff back in and I haven`t had a problem since... locks up like a champ!