Installing Moser 12 bolt-not overly inpressed
11-13-2005, 07:22 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by NYSS Guy
1-They send T-bolts to bolt the brake caliper flange to the axle tube, but they don't send the nuts! There was an extra trip to the store.
11-16-2005, 12:53 AM
#23
Originally Posted by NYSS Guy
I have a question for everyone, do I need to take the "cogs" off of the stock axles? These are the parts that make the ABS work, there is a sensor that reads these "cogs". It would make sense that I would have to put them on the new axles, but the directions from Moser say nothing about it. And, of course, it didn't dawn on me until after the new axles were installed.
Also, has anyone had a problem mounting the e-brake bracket? It doesn't look like mine are going to fit without some minor fabricating.
Thanks for the help!
Also, has anyone had a problem mounting the e-brake bracket? It doesn't look like mine are going to fit without some minor fabricating.
Thanks for the help!
you will have to get crunk on the ebrake brackets to get them to fit around the LCA brackets on the moser. you absolutly CANNOT fit them over LCA relocation brackets, which are placed over the already larger LCA bracket. i had to cut the part that wraps around the inside on mine off and weld the ebrake bracket to the LCA relocation bracket
my moser has finally started making a VERY slight whine on decel, and its got 10k miles on it on 315 nitto drags
11-18-2005, 04:56 AM
#24
One thing that helps to have a quiet Moser rear-end is to do a long break in procedure. With the rear tires off the ground, run the car at idle and in gear for 10 minutes. Let the rear cool down, then do this procedure again for a total of four or five times. The rear cover will get somewhat hot during the break in, don't be alarmed by this. A lot of friction is taking place while the gears are getting their break in.
Now the hard part... Take it easy. Drive it like there is a cop following you and you have your girlfriends parents in the back seat, for 500 miles. Bob
Now the hard part... Take it easy. Drive it like there is a cop following you and you have your girlfriends parents in the back seat, for 500 miles. Bob
11-18-2005, 05:06 AM
#25
This is from Moser's website. Bob
Your Housing Includes:
8 ea - Housing End T-Bolts 2 ea - Inner Housing Seals 2 ea - 1/8" Shims
You Will Need These Items For Your Install
8 ea - 3/8" - 24 nuts & washers for the housing ends Gear Lube - Approximately 3 quarts Rubber or plastic vent hose/line
**If you are using a Limitied Slip Differential, you will need to add Limited Slip Additive to the fluid. **Other small parts may be needed based on each individual application. Please read furtherunder the particular application that fits your need.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Venting
Your M/E Bolt-In housing needs to be vented for proper operation. A hole has been provided in the tube and a 1/4" pipe thread air line fitting has been included. After installing the fitting, run a rubber or plastic line from the fitting to a suitable location on the frame. Allow enough line to compensate for suspension travel. MAKE SURE THE END OF THE HOSE IS HIGHER THAN THE VENT HOLE OR YOU WILL LOSE FLUID.
F-Body 12 Bolt - 1982 to Present Camaro & Firebird
Your new housing has larger tubes than your stock rear. Your stock sway bar mounts will probably not fit the tube. You will need to get muffler clamps made to fit either a 3" OD tube and adapt the sway bars to them or to get aftermarket sway bar adapters
Your new Bolt-In housing does not have the tabs on it for attaching the brake lines. The most common and easiest way to secure the brake lines is with cable ties.
If you purchased your 12 Bolt with a Performance Rear Cover with the load bolts to support the main caps, it may interfere with your panhard bar. If it does, simply grind the head of the load bolt for clearance.
M/E Ring & Pinion Gears Break-In Procedure
A new ring and pinon installed with new bearings will initially generate higher than normal operating temperatures. It is advisable to use whichever of the following break-in procedures that matches your application.
Street
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Drive vehicle approximately 10 miles at normal operating speed. Accelerate and decelerate several times conservatively, then let cool for one hour.
Drag Racing
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Pull to line.
Oval Track
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Run several laps at slow to medium speeds; let cool.
3) Run several hot laps; let cool.
**WARNING: OPERATOR MUST REMAIN IN DRIVER'S SEAT AND ALWAYS MAKE SURE FRONT WHEELS ARE BLOCKED AND JACK STANDS ARE SECURED BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS PROCEDURE - NEVER EXCEED 2000 RPM WITH WHEELS OFF GROUND. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THIS WARNING COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS DAMAGE, PHYSICAL INJURY, OR DEATH.
OEM Gears vs. Performance Aftermarket Gears
Our high-performance aftermarket gears are the strongest gears available. Made from 8620 grade steel, our ring & pinion gears have been developed for strength. Made for shorter patterns, our gears favor the 'toe' of the gear, which under load the gear pattern moves toward the 'heel' of the gear for strength. Each gear set is marked with a depth for recommended set-up. The marking is figured based on the wear pattern during testing of each particular gear set.
The two primary differences between OEM gears and aftermarket gears are as follows:
OEM gears are not made with as much nickel as aftermarket gears, which in turn does not make them as strong. Conversely, OEM may not be as strong due to the material make-up, but because of the lack of nickel in the product, the gears may be quieter.
The impact value is substantially lower for OEM gears, meaning they WILL NOT be able to handle the demands of excessive horsepower as seen in more advanced drag racing.
There is a trade off. If you do race and have excessive horsepower, you will need an aftermarket gear. But keep in mind, the gears are made for strength and the ability to withstand the demands of racing. If you are using your automobile as both your daily drive AND your race car, can you live with more noise on a day to day basis? You need to decide this prior to purchasing aftermarket gears.
Your Housing Includes:
8 ea - Housing End T-Bolts 2 ea - Inner Housing Seals 2 ea - 1/8" Shims
You Will Need These Items For Your Install
8 ea - 3/8" - 24 nuts & washers for the housing ends Gear Lube - Approximately 3 quarts Rubber or plastic vent hose/line
**If you are using a Limitied Slip Differential, you will need to add Limited Slip Additive to the fluid. **Other small parts may be needed based on each individual application. Please read furtherunder the particular application that fits your need.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Venting
Your M/E Bolt-In housing needs to be vented for proper operation. A hole has been provided in the tube and a 1/4" pipe thread air line fitting has been included. After installing the fitting, run a rubber or plastic line from the fitting to a suitable location on the frame. Allow enough line to compensate for suspension travel. MAKE SURE THE END OF THE HOSE IS HIGHER THAN THE VENT HOLE OR YOU WILL LOSE FLUID.
F-Body 12 Bolt - 1982 to Present Camaro & Firebird
Your new housing has larger tubes than your stock rear. Your stock sway bar mounts will probably not fit the tube. You will need to get muffler clamps made to fit either a 3" OD tube and adapt the sway bars to them or to get aftermarket sway bar adapters
Your new Bolt-In housing does not have the tabs on it for attaching the brake lines. The most common and easiest way to secure the brake lines is with cable ties.
If you purchased your 12 Bolt with a Performance Rear Cover with the load bolts to support the main caps, it may interfere with your panhard bar. If it does, simply grind the head of the load bolt for clearance.
M/E Ring & Pinion Gears Break-In Procedure
A new ring and pinon installed with new bearings will initially generate higher than normal operating temperatures. It is advisable to use whichever of the following break-in procedures that matches your application.
Street
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Drive vehicle approximately 10 miles at normal operating speed. Accelerate and decelerate several times conservatively, then let cool for one hour.
Drag Racing
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Pull to line.
Oval Track
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Run several laps at slow to medium speeds; let cool.
3) Run several hot laps; let cool.
**WARNING: OPERATOR MUST REMAIN IN DRIVER'S SEAT AND ALWAYS MAKE SURE FRONT WHEELS ARE BLOCKED AND JACK STANDS ARE SECURED BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS PROCEDURE - NEVER EXCEED 2000 RPM WITH WHEELS OFF GROUND. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THIS WARNING COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS DAMAGE, PHYSICAL INJURY, OR DEATH.
OEM Gears vs. Performance Aftermarket Gears
Our high-performance aftermarket gears are the strongest gears available. Made from 8620 grade steel, our ring & pinion gears have been developed for strength. Made for shorter patterns, our gears favor the 'toe' of the gear, which under load the gear pattern moves toward the 'heel' of the gear for strength. Each gear set is marked with a depth for recommended set-up. The marking is figured based on the wear pattern during testing of each particular gear set.
The two primary differences between OEM gears and aftermarket gears are as follows:
OEM gears are not made with as much nickel as aftermarket gears, which in turn does not make them as strong. Conversely, OEM may not be as strong due to the material make-up, but because of the lack of nickel in the product, the gears may be quieter.
The impact value is substantially lower for OEM gears, meaning they WILL NOT be able to handle the demands of excessive horsepower as seen in more advanced drag racing.
There is a trade off. If you do race and have excessive horsepower, you will need an aftermarket gear. But keep in mind, the gears are made for strength and the ability to withstand the demands of racing. If you are using your automobile as both your daily drive AND your race car, can you live with more noise on a day to day basis? You need to decide this prior to purchasing aftermarket gears.
