What actually happens when you break your 10bolt?
#1
What actually happens when you break your 10bolt?
I have a few traction mods(torque arm, sfc's, lca's) with some 315 nittos and I plan on going to the track a few times this year. What can I expect to actually break when I drop the clutch around 3,000rpm?
Isn't the assembly inside called the carrier? Is that what explodes? You dont have to replace the entire rear end after you "break" one do you?
-j
Isn't the assembly inside called the carrier? Is that what explodes? You dont have to replace the entire rear end after you "break" one do you?
-j
#2
You name it, it breaks. Axles can break. The ring gear can break. The pinion gear can break. The internals of the limited slip unit can break, etc. It depends on your luck it seems. The ring and pinion or carrier usually seem to break before the axles, but that's not guarenteed either. So, it can be almost anything.
#6
Usually, all parts inside have to be replaced, because broken metal pieces floating around inside housing ruin everything--gearset, limited slip carrier, and all bearings. If you just break a end off a axle, you may get away w/replacing less. Also, if the end shears off the carrier where axle enters either side, you may salvage the ring and pinion, axles and some bearings. Used or new ebay parts: $4-600, plus labor, unless you can do it yourself... WJ
#7
Im on my 3rd ring and pinion . The times that it has broken, i ripped teeth off of the ring gear and the pinion gear. What happens with the 10 bolt most of the time is that the housing flexes under torque and keeps the ring and pinion from meshing completely, kinda like striping a bolt. One of my friends though it would be funny to drive on a broken gear because he was getting a 12 bolt, the axle completely locked up and his car sat in the middle of the road waiting for a tow truck. All of the time i have broken mine it just sounds like hell, sometimes the car jerks under throttle and sometimes it just is really loud. Thats just my experience/ 2 cents
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#8
Originally Posted by Lss1350
I have a few traction mods(torque arm, sfc's, lca's) with some 315 nittos and I plan on going to the track a few times this year. What can I expect to actually break when I drop the clutch around 3,000rpm?
Isn't the assembly inside called the carrier? Is that what explodes? You dont have to replace the entire rear end after you "break" one do you?
-j
Isn't the assembly inside called the carrier? Is that what explodes? You dont have to replace the entire rear end after you "break" one do you?
-j
1. Ring gear
2. Pinion gear
3. axles
4. carrier/differential
5. cap bolts
Get out your 5 gallon bucket and oil cleaning stuff. It sucks.
#9
I broke a spider gear. I took it to a shop, had the gear removed, and drove with the rear another 2 weeks before the 9" came in! It was sloppy and clunked around a lot. I was getting real nervous there at the end though. Car handled very poorly.
#12
I'm going through replacing my posi right now. i just put a bunch more power to the rear wheels and some drag radials and everything else is braking. just had my tranny rebuilt and now my posi broke at the track. driving straight it was fine but giving it gas while turning and it felt like the rear was going to explode--loud clunks and and it felt like it would just let go. well i drove home from the track scared shitless that it was gonna lock up at any moment with no warning but i made it all 3 hours just fine. took the cover off and examined my ring and pinion and no big chunks missing. there were lots of small metal shavings and a few big chunks, about the size of finger nails. i'm doing the cheapest fix, which is throwing an auburn in it and hoping it doesn't crap out before too long. i'm gonna stop going to the track for a while.
#15
c-clips...but thats usually from hard turns/curvs at high speed. or doing power slides and stopping in the middle of them...donuts...stuff like that. if your rear was jacked, you'd know it. it would clank, clatter, jerk/jolt, or squeak really really badly. if it's just the clips they're only 10 bucks for each side. your calipers will likely rub the rotor or have uneven braking surfaces on the rotor/caliper/pads.