Noisey Moser 12 bolt pole
05-25-2005, 04:52 PM
#81
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Originally Posted by 00RedWs6
This makes me want to drain mine and check it all out. It hasnt even been off the jackstands to put a mile on it yet.
do it and save the heart ache.... if it looks fine get another friend (mech.) to look at it.
moser's workers drink too much
and it shows in their work 
05-25-2005, 08:09 PM
#83
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Originally Posted by Dave@KTS
Do you have any aftermarket suspension components
like LCA's or TOrque arm or urethane bushings?
Dave K
like LCA's or TOrque arm or urethane bushings?
Dave K
Scott
05-25-2005, 10:16 PM
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i'm in St.Louis and build rear ends for extra money. i assume they use used housings and cut and weld them to fit. the center sections were quiet from GM, so if they're not quiet now, it must be the installer. i've been doing this for 25 years and know there are other people as good as me, and mine are all quiet. i have lots of customers who can back this up. i hate when people say if you go to low gears you have to live with a whine in the rear. i have 4.30's (7 5/8's) in my 2002 Firehawk and 4.56's (8.5) in my 1972 Nova, 4.10's
(12 bolt) in 1965 Malibu SS. they are all quiet like 2.73's from GM. i think it has alot to do with the installer. i know there are good qualified people out there too, unfortunately just not by you. also, there is a break in proceedure that has to do with heat and not getting the gears and bearings hot to soon or you will shorten the life span. what a wimpy way out, "I can build you a rear end, and charge you lots of money, but if it breaks its your fault no matter what"! if i did that i wouldn't have any customers, and i have more than i can do in a reasonable time most of the time. i sent a rear end to Moser a couple years ago (12 Bolt Impala) and had it cut down to 1969 Camaro specs, Ford ends and Race axles. it is for my own car, but i have not assembled it yet. i have no fear that it is going to be quiet too, but isn't this what you guys did? they start with an old 12 bolt housing and build it to 4th Gen specs and then add the guts you pick out? has anyone just purchased a housing & axle package and had a locol guy or friend build it, were they quiet?
i still believe its all in the installer. good luck to you guys 'cause i know your spending $2500 or more. i don't check this site to often, but will watch a little more to see answers, i am signed in under my sons number, my name is Paul and i hope you all get some helpful answers.
(12 bolt) in 1965 Malibu SS. they are all quiet like 2.73's from GM. i think it has alot to do with the installer. i know there are good qualified people out there too, unfortunately just not by you. also, there is a break in proceedure that has to do with heat and not getting the gears and bearings hot to soon or you will shorten the life span. what a wimpy way out, "I can build you a rear end, and charge you lots of money, but if it breaks its your fault no matter what"! if i did that i wouldn't have any customers, and i have more than i can do in a reasonable time most of the time. i sent a rear end to Moser a couple years ago (12 Bolt Impala) and had it cut down to 1969 Camaro specs, Ford ends and Race axles. it is for my own car, but i have not assembled it yet. i have no fear that it is going to be quiet too, but isn't this what you guys did? they start with an old 12 bolt housing and build it to 4th Gen specs and then add the guts you pick out? has anyone just purchased a housing & axle package and had a locol guy or friend build it, were they quiet?
i still believe its all in the installer. good luck to you guys 'cause i know your spending $2500 or more. i don't check this site to often, but will watch a little more to see answers, i am signed in under my sons number, my name is Paul and i hope you all get some helpful answers.
05-25-2005, 10:47 PM
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the pinion depth should be etched on the head (like 2.793) , most all gears run .008 back lash or .006 - .004 on race apts. you will need a pinion depth gauge, $200- $500 and a dial indicator for back lash measurement. don't impact a pinion nut to crush the crush sleeve, use a 3/4" rachet or breaker bar. pinion shims determine the depth, not the amount of drag . 15 -20 inch lbs, not foot lbs. is how leverage it takes to spin the pinion gear with a properly crushed sleeve. and it take more than a few minutes do all this properly. hope this shines some light for you
