I hate to be such a post ***** today, but i forgot to mention that youll need to do one of three things to get 4.10s to fit. You need to either get the SLP paddle block kit, or you need to grind down 2 or 3 teeth on the ring gear, or you can have the stock paddle block milled down a bit. I did that third choice. The block will not want to fit past the ring gear teeth since theyre thicker than the 3.42s (thicker ring, smaller pinion). I milled down a 3/4" x 3/16" corner notch out of the block so that it could sneak past the ring teeth. So far its worked flawlessly. Just somethingyou should think about now before it surprises you like it did to me.

 

I don't consider someone a post ***** when they are providing valuable information. Only the guys who simply post a smilie are post ******. Thanks Guits

 

My friend put 4.11's in his bolt-on Z28 with 18's and can't hook worth a crap. I think it has slowed him down, because all he does is spin. With 4.11's you won't hook on street tires and you'll blow up your 10 bolt with sticky tires. I personally couldn't see doing more the 3.73's on the stock 10 bolt, which isn't a big step up.

 

I'm just afraid that only going to a 3.73 from a 3.42 won't be worth the money vs. gain.

 

I just got my 4.11's and it awsome. My best 1/4 before was 12.51 look in sig. That was the first night out with them. I was slipping the clutch out and rollin in the throttle. It will do a little better if I'm harder on it but trying not to break it.

 

QUOTE: I'm just afraid that only going to a 3.73 from a 3.42 won't be worth the money vs. gain.

MY thoughts exactly....thats why I still have stock gears. I can't decide either. I hook up great now, and don't want to have to run sticky tires to hook on 4.11's. I'm not ready to buy a 12 bolt. My friends car has LCA's w/relocation brackets, torque arm, etc., etc., and still slides all over the place with the 4.11's. I'm not sure 3.73's will make enough difference to be worth it, but thats what I'm leaning towards. I wish GM made 3.90's or something in between.

 

what mph do you have to shift to 5th with the 4.10's?

 

I bet this can answer your question

http://www.f-body.org/gears/

 

thats a neat little program, but it needs some tweaking. any personal experience here.. 3.73 and 4.10 fellas. what speed do you shift into 5th. thanks -g

 

Just out of curiosity...If I were to put 4.10s in my car (running stock gears), my ETs would not be much quicker, but I would easily put more cars between my car and another M6 Z28 running stock gears (3.42). Is this correct?

 

Go 4.10 Gears...........i Have 3.73 In My A4 But I Have Read Somewhere In This Forum That 4.10 Is The Better Gear For The M6

 

I'm just afraid that the taller gear will be much thinner and make it that much easier to break. Yes, I know all 10 bolt gears break easily, but I'm not launching at the track with them either.

 

After putting in 4.10s in my car I was able to get better 60ft times-I think because the car launches so much easier, you just have to feather the throttle off the line then wack it when you start to get some traction. I dropped an average 2 tenths, although I did get 3-4 tenths faster on a few runs. This was with my crappy street tires and 2.2 2.3 60ft times

I love 4.10 gears, I don't think 3.73 is worth your time

 

I broke 3.73's, now I'm going to 4.10's. I'll let ya know how they are, if I can remember this thread.

 

When you put the gears in you should get T/A rear end cover also. It won't keep the ten bolt from giving up on ya some day but it should help prolong it's life.

 

ive been rollin on 3.73's in 2 different cars for over 3 year and both of them have over 350hp/350tq, no broken 10 bolt yet. i think some people are paranoid and others are to damn rough on a vehicle.

 

I am now a firm believer in 10 bolts are junk. Wasted three diffs, spent $800.00 to $900.00 on diffs, now getting a 9" because if I bought a +$2000.00 12 bolt and broke it, I would shoot my car and/or sell it. Everyone hates to hear the truth: "Get a 9" and be happy". If you don't race at the track at all, keep the 10 bolt. If you even think you might go to the track, get a 9".

 

I've had the new rear in my car for 5 days now (Eaton HD Posi w/ 800lb Springs, Motive 4.11s, and Moser Axles). And I love it... granted there is a decent amount of gear whine, it isn't anything that can't be masked by having the radio on at a comfortable audio level. I'm more than willing to trade the factory 3.42's for 4.11's with some whining. The car pulls much harder and as someone else mentioned... it doesn't bog off idle like before with the stock gear.

I haven't had much of a problem with hooking on my street tires (GS-D3s)... then again from what I understand, they grip pretty well for a street tire. I have yet to do any launches, just slipping the clutch from about 2300RPMs. I've done several hard 1 -> 2 and 2 - > 3 shifts with a nice loud chirp. No where near as bad when I was running my 245/45/17 winter tires and had the 3.42's.

 

Go with 4.10's.

 

I do not think that the fbody.org/gears is correct. I typed in my information and it says at 7000rpm in 5th gear I am going 220MPH. There is no way that is right. I was just racing a bike tonight and we went from a dead stop to wide open and I hit 7000rpm in 5th and I do not think that I was going 220mph. Any one with 4.10's what do you shift out of 4th at for mph? And at the track I hit the limiter in 3rd and it traps at 115.5mph and the chart says 125mph. I think that there is something wrong here.