View Poll Results: What gears for my car..read below for info.
3.73
63
27.51%
4.10
166
72.49%
Voters: 229. You may not vote on this poll
Help deciding 3.73 or 4.10 for my 10 bolt
#62
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Originally Posted by G's99_hawk
thats a neat little program, but it needs some tweaking. any personal experience here.. 3.73 and 4.10 fellas. what speed do you shift into 5th. thanks -g
#64
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Have to? I dont HAVE TO put it in 5th till 125 MPH, but Im cammed. Stock motors will redline in 4th at 115 with the 4.10 gears.
I love my 4.10's and can't wait to put in an f14, and see what it can do at 6600-ish (rev limit @ 7000 )
#65
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I am wondering to a stock 10 bolt if I go with 4.10's should I change anythingelse? Like cooler diffretial cover or whatever, or its fine. My car has all the bolt ons and a race cam and tuned
Thanks
Thanks
#66
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Originally Posted by yekta
I am wondering to a stock 10 bolt if I go with 4.10's should I change anythingelse? Like cooler diffretial cover or whatever, or its fine. My car has all the bolt ons and a race cam and tuned
Thanks
Thanks
#67
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
According to this forum, 4.10s will break your rearend if the UPS man walks the package containing said gears to close to the car in your driveway.
After much debate myself, I am saying **** it and risking putting 4.10s in my stock 10 bolt, cause my car badly needs them!
#69
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I'm sure it's been mentioned on here already(but I'm too lazy to go through four pages and see), but 3.73s will bring you back to around stock performance, given your tire size. So 4.10s would be almost like a happy median between a stock-tire 3.73 and 4.10 Consider the stresses on your axle too, though. A smaller tire size is like a lower gear... less strain on the drivetrain, yet quicker out of the hole. You're already a step backwards from this with the taller tire, so if 4.10s can break a stock-tire 10-bolt, then you're gonna be more prone to breakage, because that same strain will be on the R/P for a longer time frame.
Definitely invest in a TA cover, new bearings, and possibly another diff, like a TrueTrac or equivalent. When all's said and done, you'll probably make the 10-bolt live long enough to have money saved up for a 12-bolt, 9", or Strange's Dana 60 getup that will NEVER break. I'd suggest one of the latter two, because you won't have to deal with C-clips(which you can't have on cars that run a specified ET or faster) and the issues they throw at us.
Definitely invest in a TA cover, new bearings, and possibly another diff, like a TrueTrac or equivalent. When all's said and done, you'll probably make the 10-bolt live long enough to have money saved up for a 12-bolt, 9", or Strange's Dana 60 getup that will NEVER break. I'd suggest one of the latter two, because you won't have to deal with C-clips(which you can't have on cars that run a specified ET or faster) and the issues they throw at us.
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you'd be surprised at the track what 3.42 vs 3.73 would do......
this is my 2 cents, also gas mileage if its a daily driver, those 4.10's will be a little up beat
I went te 3.73 route, call me stupid, call me , but I went 3.73s
this is my 2 cents, also gas mileage if its a daily driver, those 4.10's will be a little up beat
I went te 3.73 route, call me stupid, call me , but I went 3.73s
#71
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Well, Killer, he's running a taller tire than usual, so 3.73s would put him back to near stock performance. 4.10s would put him about the same area as you or me on 3.73s. I'm one of these who prefer 3.73s on a stock height tire, too. Largely because once the modding ensues, I don't want to be bouncing off the limiter at the end of the strip running 4.10s, and I dang sure don't wanna waste time shifting into 5th.
#73
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Originally Posted by UnleashedBeast
Well, I raced another 99 TA LS1 M6 today (same tires as mine too) stock everything except he had 4.10 gears which was his only mod. His car was neck to neck with mine until we got around 90 MPH (from 45 mph roll). My car then pulled on his about 1-1.5 car lengths then we ran out of room. His stock everything with 4.10 gears matched my headers, true duals, UD pulley until the higher speeds. WOW, what a difference 4.10s make to a car. I drove his and couldn't believe how much easier it was to break the rear end loose when I stomped it.
#75
I had 315 radials on my car (back to 315 streets) with the stock 3.42's it would spin first endlessly and occasionally break second loose from a roll if they were cold. I have a GM 4.33 I was going to put in but that seems dumb after reading this as I would have no traction at all in first or second and prolly 3rd too...time to save for a 9" I guess.
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I did an a4 to m6 swap and I had 2.73s with an m6, 6th was useless, so I put some Yukons 3.73's and I like them I just didn't want any rear end problems theres no way I could afford a new rear end right now, but I am going to get a 9" as soon as possible and with that I may go with 4.10s.
btw
I raced a mustang GT(01 body style) on the freeway with my 2.73's and still won by about a car, I down shifted to 2nd doing about 60, that gearing was stupid!
btw
I raced a mustang GT(01 body style) on the freeway with my 2.73's and still won by about a car, I down shifted to 2nd doing about 60, that gearing was stupid!