do i need a 9 inch?
do i need a 9 inch? ok well i'm going to be in the 400rwhp range. ill go to the track mabie once a year, so i dont want spool or locker. id want a posi as i may be road racing more than drag racing and i dont want my tires to suddenly break loose around a turn. now i'm an m6, so will a 12 bolt with 3.90s and a posil be good for my application, or should i go with a 9 inch and a posi scince i have an M6 car?
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
well, it kinda depends. Honestly I would say 12bolt. But if you plan on dead hooking..if that is possible on a m6??..then i would say 9in. Are you spraying?? if your spraying i would say 9in. From what i have understood, the 12bolts are strong as it is, but there are people breaking them...but they launch at HIGH rpm's, Slicks/ETStreets/PRC, FULL Suspension, and high gears. So they are leaving like a bat out of hell. So honestly if your not doing any of that...I say 12 bolt
ya i'm not goin to the track too often. ill run stickey street tires (nittos) on the street, and i wont be launching hard. i will have full suspension, so i dont think ill have to worry about wheel hop. the only thing i'm worries about is the whine on the 12 bolt. I DO NOT WANT WHINE. so will the 3.90 gears stop this (heard somthing about 4.10s and harmonics in the 12 bolts.)
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
I will give you my opinion and that is all it is. I went the 12 bolt route from Strange worst money spent so far on the car $2300 and with in the frist week it started to whine. I had the rear rebuilt with all new bearring and shims the works 3 mounts after i bought it . that lasted about a month I was a lunatic at this point.I riped the rear out and sold it on ebay.
I had no other option at this poing i went with a 9" I heard Great things about Scott:
at Driveline Solutions. I got in touch with him (Great Guy) and ordered up a 9" with True Trac. Three day later the center section was at my house and on the forth day the housing and axles where there. Install was easer than the 12 bolt and the rear is better in line with the driveshaft and the TQ arm. The feeling is Great compared to the 12 bolt. The engagment is way better car feels much more positive.
My car only has 400 RW and is an M6 I drive on M/T drag radials and race on Hooser QTP I launch at 5500rpm car weight 3636 race ready. I dead hook cut 1.8 and run 11.7 all with out a peep from the rear she is dead quiet. This is the best money i have spent on the car so far.
So i guess do what you want but if you plan on doing any kind of racing do not bother with the 12 bolt it was just a waist of time and money for me.
Buy the best once and you will never habve to go back and do it over. I stand behind Scotts work 100%. Just read all the post on here about 12 bolt issues i still do not under stand why people are still buying them.
Well good luck with what ever way you go" Keep the shiny side up"
Chris
Check him out:
www.driveline-solutions.com
I had no other option at this poing i went with a 9" I heard Great things about Scott:
at Driveline Solutions. I got in touch with him (Great Guy) and ordered up a 9" with True Trac. Three day later the center section was at my house and on the forth day the housing and axles where there. Install was easer than the 12 bolt and the rear is better in line with the driveshaft and the TQ arm. The feeling is Great compared to the 12 bolt. The engagment is way better car feels much more positive.
My car only has 400 RW and is an M6 I drive on M/T drag radials and race on Hooser QTP I launch at 5500rpm car weight 3636 race ready. I dead hook cut 1.8 and run 11.7 all with out a peep from the rear she is dead quiet. This is the best money i have spent on the car so far.
So i guess do what you want but if you plan on doing any kind of racing do not bother with the 12 bolt it was just a waist of time and money for me.
Buy the best once and you will never habve to go back and do it over. I stand behind Scotts work 100%. Just read all the post on here about 12 bolt issues i still do not under stand why people are still buying them.
Well good luck with what ever way you go" Keep the shiny side up"
Chris
Check him out:
www.driveline-solutions.com
Originally Posted by 00sscam
I will give you my opinion and that is all it is. I went the 12 bolt route from Strange worst money spent so far on the car $2300 and with in the frist week it started to whine. I had the rear rebuilt with all new bearring and shims the works 3 mounts after i bought it . that lasted about a month I was a lunatic at this point.I riped the rear out and sold it on ebay.
I had no other option at this poing i went with a 9" I heard Great things about Scott:
at Driveline Solutions. I got in touch with him (Great Guy) and ordered up a 9" with True Trac. Three day later the center section was at my house and on the forth day the housing and axles where there. Install was easer than the 12 bolt and the rear is better in line with the driveshaft and the TQ arm. The feeling is Great compared to the 12 bolt. The engagment is way better car feels much more positive.
My car only has 400 RW and is an M6 I drive on M/T drag radials and race on Hooser QTP I launch at 5500rpm car weight 3636 race ready. I dead hook cut 1.8 and run 11.7 all with out a peep from the rear she is dead quiet. This is the best money i have spent on the car so far.
So i guess do what you want but if you plan on doing any kind of racing do not bother with the 12 bolt it was just a waist of time and money for me.
Buy the best once and you will never habve to go back and do it over. I stand behind Scotts work 100%. Just read all the post on here about 12 bolt issues i still do not under stand why people are still buying them.
Well good luck with what ever way you go" Keep the shiny side up"
Chris
Check him out:
www.driveline-solutions.com
I had no other option at this poing i went with a 9" I heard Great things about Scott:
at Driveline Solutions. I got in touch with him (Great Guy) and ordered up a 9" with True Trac. Three day later the center section was at my house and on the forth day the housing and axles where there. Install was easer than the 12 bolt and the rear is better in line with the driveshaft and the TQ arm. The feeling is Great compared to the 12 bolt. The engagment is way better car feels much more positive.
My car only has 400 RW and is an M6 I drive on M/T drag radials and race on Hooser QTP I launch at 5500rpm car weight 3636 race ready. I dead hook cut 1.8 and run 11.7 all with out a peep from the rear she is dead quiet. This is the best money i have spent on the car so far.
So i guess do what you want but if you plan on doing any kind of racing do not bother with the 12 bolt it was just a waist of time and money for me.
Buy the best once and you will never habve to go back and do it over. I stand behind Scotts work 100%. Just read all the post on here about 12 bolt issues i still do not under stand why people are still buying them.
Well good luck with what ever way you go" Keep the shiny side up"
Chris
Check him out:
www.driveline-solutions.com
wow your car sounds like what my goals are for my car. guess i'm going with the 9 inch. is there any way i can minimize drivtrain loss (i.e. lightweight parts)?
Trending Topics
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
I use a Dennies Nitrous Shaft i ditched the stock Aluminum one for (safty reasons)
I was told this years ago by a old time mecanic and racer.
Engine is nothing more than a big air pump. get it in and out as fast as you can.
Build a car form the rear first the last thing to do is the engine.
So i guess what i am saying is build it as strong as you want then dyno her to see where you are it makes parts buying for the engine simpler if all other work is done on the car first so all driveline upgraded/ (losses) have been made all ready
As for light weight driveline parts (rotating).
CF driveshaft
lightened ring and pinion
Spool insted of posi/True Trac
MAybe some titanium bolts for the ring gear
Just some ideas
Good luck have fun.
I was told this years ago by a old time mecanic and racer.
Engine is nothing more than a big air pump. get it in and out as fast as you can.
Build a car form the rear first the last thing to do is the engine.
So i guess what i am saying is build it as strong as you want then dyno her to see where you are it makes parts buying for the engine simpler if all other work is done on the car first so all driveline upgraded/ (losses) have been made all ready
As for light weight driveline parts (rotating).
CF driveshaft
lightened ring and pinion
Spool insted of posi/True Trac
MAybe some titanium bolts for the ring gear
Just some ideas
Good luck have fun.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
If you keep the stock gear, and always roll on a Nitto, you might want to keep the stock rearend. But if you are an abusive driver a 12 bolt or 9" might be a good idea.
i really want 4.10s tho, i think they would really compliment my H/C. so i'm getting the feeling a 9 inch is the way to go. now what is a soft locker? how is it different from a regular locker?
