Brichdp06

Guys looking into buying my first Camaro or T/A when I do get one im planning on looking to push over 400rwhp so should i get a moser 12 bolt first with a gear or go ahead with H/C Intake etc... thanks

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

I say motor first until the rear breaks.

DocT

yep, have fun with the stock til it stiffs...what h/c are you planning?

blue2000Z28

wow...listen...on an m6 car...go 12 bolt as your FIRST MOD..then your second mod get tires...then lid, catback(w/cutout), then suspension then headers/ORY, THEN ONCE YOU HAVE EVERYTHINIG YOU NEED TO MAKE THE HEAD CAM BREATH...go head/cam...but after you have an intake manifolid...ported throthlebody, etc..

PLUS..look at this...full suspension, 12 bolt car can launch harder than a head/cam stock rear car..why...becuse you wont go anywhere after you launch an m6 on a stock rear..except home on a trailer

sprayinss

iTrader: (2)

listen to blue2000,get stout rearend and build forward,that is the best worry free way to do it,i have already been both routes

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

If M6 I would get the 12 bolt. It would suck to destroy the rear right after you spent the $$ on H/C.

Look at it this way. When you build a house you build the foundation first.

SouthFL.02.SS

Auto or M6? Huge difference in the need for a rear from the get go.
Then, the cam you decide to go with will determine your rear gear ratio.

lsevenl

iTrader: (5)

i'm pushing 440+rwhp but i'm very easy on my rearend since it's stock. I am not looking to break anything anytime soon since I just don't have the funds to go with a 9'' yet. But if you have that kind of restraint I don't see why going with the motor upgrades first is a problem.

Tally TransAm

iTrader: (17)

if you wanna be fast from a dig do the rear, if you wanna be fast from a roll, do the h/c

Joker

Always build from the ground up; horsepower is useless if you can't get it to the ground effectively and efficiently. Moser suck *********, avoid that POS at all costs. If you want a nice rearend that will hold up to just about anything you can throw at it, get a 9" from DTS or Billingsley; 12 bolts are prone to whine and carriers fail much more often in them. A car with 340 hp and a built rearend is ALWAYS faster than a 500 hp car with a broke rearend, driveshaft, trans, etc...sitting in the garage waiting on funds and parts to come in.

TTSSZ

iTrader: (8)

No sorry......
Most of you are wrong. If I did that I would not have had such a grate year.
I did all motor, and nothing but a clutch.
If I did the rear first (just blew the 10 bolt after 11,000 mi.) I would have a slug of a car that launches good. What good is that, I have not lost a street race yet, drive the car every day, push 5 and 3/4 to the wheels and have not had one problem. Lets see a stock car or even a h/c car keep up.
I even have the stock tires still and blowing the thing sideways at 55mph is the best thing you could ever want to do when a beefed up cobra comes a knocking.

I say get the power first and then fix the weakest links as they blow.
I would not have hade the money for a blowout twin turbo ss If I blew the money on the ground up build. Park your ground up car next to my twin turbo blue ss, take a good look at both and tell me.... what one would you rather have. come on tell the truth.

After 1 1/2 years of thrashing, I finally need to replace the first week link.
You cant really tell me you believe its better to have a slow car that hooks over an insanely fast car that’s just nuts to drive.
Plus after 1 1/2 years of recooping I have the money to start doing other good stuff....HRE's, pilot sports, suspension stuff, and a 9" that I DIDEN'T NEED TILL NOW. How do you know your not wasting money on parts that might never blow.
Do the H/C and save up for a blower or turbo.

00sscam

If you have more money than god do your moter first.

Why make tons of power of you can not stick it or your car can not handle it . Seams stuped to me. Old race told me "Kid you build a race car from the rear first"

Makes sense if you think about it think about all the down time you will have if you do it the other way.

Good luck

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

The only way he's really going to break it is by taking it to the track on slicks and REALLY, REALLY hard shifts. If he beats on it hard it will break some time soon. But from a roll and average driving it should live for awhile.
Mine lived through alot of abuse, like 4K clutch dumps on ET streets at the track and a few bad misshifts.
I say motor first then 9" when needed. I did.

TTSSZ

iTrader: (8)

Look up Cablebandit, he's pushing 750rwhp and doing 10.1's and blew one 10 bolt launching over 4500 with 1 foot on the brake to build boost. Probly has done 50 passes on dr's or more befor it blew. He put in another one and is launching at 38 I think. Mine has gone through countless holeshots and smokers and I shift the thing like it's a dirtbike. In 1 1/2 years I finily have 'down time' as it were, but know anything that goes is a easy fix in my garage, all the hard work that I would rather leave to the pro's....IE motor work, is far behind me.
my 2 cents -

777

iTrader: (21)

That's I blew my rear-end on street tires (315 sumitumo's at that) I broke it shifting to second from a 10mph roll in 1st. I'm only making right around 400rwhp.

To the topic. I say build your motor and drive it easy. There are so many more benifits this way. If you want a fast car down the track I guess do the rear-end. I'm sure I could beat a bolt-on ls1 with my h/c ls1 if he had a good rear and some drag radials. Me even weak launching granny shifting 1-2. Not to mention the sound of a H/C car. You will be MUCH happier with a heads and cam over a car that can hold a 5,000 launch. Once you start doing that you will need new tranny, clutch, driveshaft, etc...you open up a whole new can of worms. Just be safe with the heads and cam and replace things that break. when you get the money then you can build it. I do recomend building certain things first. I'd get SFC's and some other suspension, also get all bolt-ons before the cam (especially ls6 intake and headers/exhaust)

777

iTrader: (21)

Automatics and 10-bolts are like Manuals and 12-bolts. You don't see many people breaking the 10-bolt with an automatic. It's because the initial jolt to the rear-end is what breaks it. This jolt isn't very present in an automatic because it is pre-loaded from staging.

There are a few guys in the 10's with automatics and 10-bolts. You won't see that with a manual.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I'd go thru and replace everything before it breaks, before you start making power... sell the stock pars you take off and use that 4 to recoup the $ spent on parts, and continue... can't sell broken parts. My .02

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

If it's a 6spd, and you place to drag race it, 12 bolt first.

Even if it's an A4, 12 bolt first. The problem with breaking a 10 bolt on a A4 car... the sometimes "sudden" stop of the 10 bolt breaking will also break the transmission.

00sscam

I guess i am in a different boat i have a M6 and went the Strange 12bolt option first it sucked *** i rebuilt it in 3 mounts and then again in 12 it still wined and wiped out the bearings . I went to a 9" form Scott : at www.driveline-solutions.com/scart/agora.cgi and have never looked back. 5k plus in rears have tought me to built it bullet proof once and forget about it.

I also launch my car at 5500 on a 2 step with Hooser QTP with a dead hook. so it might be a little X but there are a lot more guyes out there with more than my wimpey 407RW

12 bolt is cute for the street or may be auto cross but if your going to be racing from a DIG why waist the money.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

My moser has been fine so far... about 2000 miles on it, and a few track 5000 launches on e.t streets... no problems so far, 4.10's are quiet IMo for a gear like that too.... Not everyone's as lucky as I am I guess though.